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Tut: Nautilus 500 Mod (EASY)

post #1 of 9
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Just finished modding a Nautilus 500 and wanted to share since I saw some commenting on them and modding them. This is a simple mod and took at total of 5 hrs. I could have finished quicker but - I was just relaxing and enjoying the day.


Parts list for the Mod:
Xchanger 120 http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=23556

3/8" fittings http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=21263

Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22540

Chrome 120mm grill http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...roducts_id=249

Mini Shroud 120mm http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=3511

Permatex Black Silicone http://www.autoaccessconnect.com/peblsiadse.html

Black Rubber Feet (2") from Lowes (Couldn't find link but here is similar)
http://www.starglass.com/products.html
http://www.starglass.com/images/Rubb...r%20Bridge.jpg


@ thehighlander123 "I hope this helps you in your quest to improve your stock Nautilus 500."



I started by removing the rubber feet under the stock Nautilus. There you will a total of 4 screws that holds the upper housing to the lower housing.
Then unplugged the fan power cable.
I then fought like crazy to remove those Nutty Hose Clamps - Dont know what to call them other than a Pain in the Arse.
The Aluminum Rad is held in place by some kind of epoxy. *(Thank Goodness the preform plastic was smooth or this would be a paint to remove.) Simply pry with a screw driver and the walls of the Nautilus are so smooth to allow the epoxy to break free.

This is what you will have when done.







Next I took my Beautifully Packaged Xchanger 120 out and traced a generic outline of the rad on the bottom of the housing.

I dremeled about an 1/8" away from my trace line and filed up to it, to ensure a tight fit. (A lot of time goes into this - for looks, even though no one will see the bottom but you.)





Not done filing but you at least get the picture - not going to kill you or bore you with multiple filing shots.


Next I dry fit the 90* elbows and Rad into the Nautilus. I pretty much pushed it all the way to rest on the plywood. I did this so that I could dry fit the top with a Ultra Kaze 120x38 (3000 = 133cfm) fan and check for clearance.




Well after that, I could clearly see that there was NO WAY that the fan and Rad were even remotely close to fitting. So I ordered a simple 120mm shroud and traced it out on the top of the Nautilus. *** Note that the shroud has a 1/8" lip and dremel again about an 1/8" from the line and file to the needed size.






Next I went ahead and installed the Fan in a PULL CONFIG and replaced the close knit mesh guard that was stock with a normal wire grill. (The air will be pulled from the bottom and exhausting at the top of the unit.)






I dry fitted the top again, and note that the Rad is still just sitting on the plywood. Once it was fit into position, I slid the Rad up until it was bottoming out against the top of the housing. I then tacked it on with some hot melt glue - in four corners. I flipped it over and made sure it was level. (Rad was same height all the way around)




Once I had it where it was going, I then painted 2 "L" angle brackets and then attached them to the Rad and Housing. This secures the Rad in place.



I then installed another wire grill on the bottom since the Rad is extended about 1/4" past the housing.





I then used Black Silicone Permatex to seal the Xchanger so that there were no air voids. Where it crosses through the housing. This will prevent any air not coming through the rad. (You dont want the cool air to go around it, but through it.)
****DOH just realized I dont have a clean pic of it siliconed and am too lazy to take another pic....



I then installed some simple 2" black rubber feet I picked up from Lowes. They took the shape of the square feet nicely.





OK - Now it is done and if anyone knows where I can get an Feser Xchanger Sticker from, please let me know. I want to attach it right before the logo for Nautilus 500.




Leak testing Now for about 9 hours. No issues what so ever! I noticed when I took it apart that the Green LED was point straight down - so I remounted it pointing directly into the res and now it is BRIGHT as HECK!





I really dont know what I will use this on yet.... my sons really want me to cool their xbox 360 with it, but my honey's computer could use it for a cpu only loop as well. Oh well - I just enjoy modding and dont know what I will do with it.

Please post some feed back if you enjoyed the read or hated it - this is my first tutorial of sorts!

L8R,
RoB
    
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post #2 of 9
nice, even though I would go completely custom. I'm sure that beefy radiator helped out temps a lot! +rep for the ingenuity!

Also what would be really cool is if you got another shroud and done the samething for the bottom since you have the additional room from the new rubber feet.
Edited by NCspecV81 - 5/27/08 at 6:26pm
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post #3 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by OC_RoB View Post
(first pic) look at the THICKNESS!
THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID - *looks around for a high five*

But in all seriousness - nice thorough tutorial! Great work dude

*Shivers at the sight of the aluminum rad - mutiple metals in loop = COOOORROOOOSSIOOONN!!!*
Edited by killa_concept - 5/27/08 at 6:28pm
post #4 of 9
I'd like to see that on an xbox

Thats a sweet mod. Nice work. I wish I was able to do stuff like that.
    
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post #5 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCspecV81 View Post
nice, even though I would go completely custom. I'm sure that beefy radiator helped out temps a lot! +rep for the ingenuity!

Also what would be really cool is if you got another shroud and done the samething for the bottom since you have the additional room from the new rubber feet.
Adding another fan on bottom would be cool.
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post #6 of 9
GOOD WORK !!!

+1 rep
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post #7 of 9
Hey its looking good....Thanks for all the pic's...That will make you a real nice GPU cooler or something...Just those 2 90's on the rad would give me night-mares though...

Those pinch clamps are "Otikier" (SP), I like those, they give a real good tube to barb seal...CD carries them in his store or you can get them here to..McMaster-Carr ..They have a little installation tool for them thats pretty neat, works great to...On the backs of the clamps, where it looks like a little rivet, is where its easiest to pop them apart with the tool or side-cutters..

I wish Corsair would just stick a 120 BIP or Swifty in that thing and it would make a great little intro WC'ing rig for a $160 bux....

Nice little guide, appreciate all the time you put into it...I don't have any idea why, but I've just always liked the looks of them, that shroud on top looks good I think, kind of breaks up the out line a little...You can always add a Petra top to it later on and get a little more flow...Thats why I had to add those wedges to the top of mine though, for tubing clearance after I added a DDC pump top to it....
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post #8 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Also what would be really cool is if you got another shroud and done the samething for the bottom since you have the additional room from the new rubber feet.
There would be no way of getting another 120mm x 38mm fan under there, unless it was jacked up another 4". There is only 1 5/8" clearance now.

Quote:
THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID - *looks around for a high five*
Reaches to meet your hand for the High-Five

Quote:
I'd like to see that on an xbox
Thats a sweet mod. Nice work. I wish I was able to do stuff like that.
Thanks and that's probably where it will be going - I'm going to add a LCD Temp to it soon as well, and this mod was very very easy. No Skillz!

@ ira-k
Thanks!
Yeah - it was almost comical for those clamps -they were kicking my Azz. To be honest - I dont know why they dont swap the rad either, other than cost. (Cut into their profit margin on it, maybe) I looked for a RS120 (like Martinm210 tested, but could find one locally.)

Thanks for all the kind words every one!
    
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post #9 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by OC_RoB View Post
There would be no way of getting another 120mm x 38mm fan under there, unless it was jacked up another 4". There is only 1 5/8" clearance now.
Then use a 120x25mm fan.
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