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*cry*...is it dead? - Page 2

post #11 of 24
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haha ok ok

i put back all the thermal pads etc....dunno how they gonna tell i took off the heatsink exacly.....their was no "sticker" or anything


anyways running my gpu @ 900 / 2050 / 1250!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


sweeet!
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post #12 of 24
What are the brand of the GPU's?

Some companies allow you to put custom coolers on anyways, like EVGA and i think XFX/BFG so you won't be voiding your warranty even if you are missing the pads. But it depends on what manufacturer made your cards.

And yea, just try and put everything back on. take them back to the shop you bought them from and say it was DOA, they should give you a direct replacement. If not you can still go through the manufacturer and get a replacement card.

Good luck.
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post #13 of 24
just shows how important it is to leak test for HOURS!!!!
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post #14 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by IcedEarth View Post
Yep de-ionized is distilled water so that shouldn't be a problem anyways. So yes, i would go with it over heating for now. Have you tried re-seating the swiftech?

Also, form your statement i would put it down to the memory being the problem. Can i ask why some of your memory is bare?
Distilled water and de-ionized water is not actually the same thing. De-ionized water would have been better in this case because it's completey non-conductive because of the lack of ions. It's bad for loops though because it corrodes your blocks by trying to get it's ions back.

As for the OP, it's definitely your video card as I just had to RMA my card for the same reason (although i didn't spill water on it). You're gonna have to RMA it and HOPE they actually honor the warranty since it has water damage.
post #15 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by PuffinMyLye View Post
Distilled water and de-ionized water is not actually the same thing. De-ionized water would have been better in this case because it's completey non-conductive because of the lack of ions. It's bad for loops though because it corrodes your blocks by trying to get it's ions back.

As for the OP, it's definitely your video card as I just had to RMA my card for the same reason (although i didn't spill water on it). You're gonna have to RMA it and HOPE they actually honor the warranty since it has water damage.
Ahh thanks for the info, the basic thing i was getting at was that the water shouldn't have damaged the card. But interesting info non the less, nice to know my fuzion is being eaten away as we type

And also this is his other GPU, the one that didn't get water on it. So there will be no water damage ect on the card. I think it was just the mis placement of the mem pads. The memory must have over heated causing it to fry or something.
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post #16 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by IcedEarth View Post
Ahh thanks for the info, the basic thing i was getting at was that the water shouldn't have damaged the card. But interesting info non the less, nice to know my fuzion is being eaten away as we type

And also this is his other GPU, the one that didn't get water on it. So there will be no water damage ect on the card. I think it was just the mis placement of the mem pads. The memory must have over heated causing it to fry or something.
Very possible. If that's the case then it should be covered under the warranty (depending on the manufacturer).

Btw if you're using de-ionized water yourself, I'd suggest putting an anti-corrosive additive in there.
post #17 of 24
Thread Starter 
er...im using petra's ptnuke with the distilled water....


the card that got wet is working fine though
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post #18 of 24
The process of purifying the water is what is different about deionised [aka iron water] and distilled.

Distilling effectively makes the liquid mostly water, free from metal ions and other compounds. A rotor vap is how you would do it in a small quantities. You evaporate the water and then cool down the gas phase with tubes of running cool water. The water condenses and you collect it.
Edited by MomijiTMO - 6/3/08 at 3:55pm
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post #19 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by porky View Post
er...im using petra's ptnuke with the distilled water....


the card that got wet is working fine though
I saw this happen to a member over on XS, he overtightened the sinks, once he loosened them a bit it started working just fine.

The proper way to apply them is to apply plenty of tim, press the sinks on and hold them flat with your fingers, and snug all of the screws using just your thumb and forefinger on the screwdriver. Once you have done that, go back around and gently snug them once more, then leave it at that. If you tighten them, you surely will warp the card and short out.

This is a danger with FC blocks as well, and you will note that the manus are starting to include little rims around the screwholes on the back of their blocks to prevent this. I will likely include this when I do the 280/260 GTX sinks.

Thanks for buying my sinks though!
post #20 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by iandh View Post
Thanks for buying my sinks though!
I had major artifacts and pixelated script when I first installed your sinks on my 8800GT, and once I removed the nylon washers the card works fine.
  
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