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Making a CPU loop

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
Hello people, I am standing in front of the door of WC world, trying to find courage to knock on its doors.

As I will be moving down to San Diego in about 3-4 months, I'm looking for a quieter(?) and cooler way to run my rig.

After reading TnB's guide on quality WC parts and his advice, I came up with these parts:

CPU block: Apogee GT or above (used or new) - I'm thinking DD MC-TDX as I might have a seller for this part used
Radiator: BIX 360/480 or PA 120.3 (used - hopefully)
Pump: D5 Vario (used - or is new better?)
Reservoir: Any (Do I really need it? how much better is it to have it than T-line)
Tubing: Buying new from Petra's (Unless its cheaper elsewhere)
Clamps, coolants, and etc: Also buying form Petra's (Unless its cheaper elsewhere)
Fans: I want it below 40 dba...even better if its 35 dba and under...any recommendations? I'm thinking of running Ultra Kaze with a fan controller (Sunbeam Rheabus which I have)

Well I'm trying to make it all under $250 shipped/after tax, so buying used parts would be a big plus for me.

Is there any suggestions or what I should do? Like are some parts better when I just buy it new?

Thanks!
Edited by HappyVirus - 6/4/08 at 7:33pm
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post #2 of 17
If you can find a used version 1 Fuzion i'd grab it instead, the version 2 has come out so some of the guys should be selling their V1... FuZion CPU Block

I like the GTX, its the newest BI rad.. GTX360.The old BIX is a good one to, it really needs 100+ cfm fans on it for best performance.BIX 360.The little 86cfm Pana wouldn't be to bad, but the 115's would be better on it...86cfm Pana....115 Pana-S/W.I'd use at least the 86cfm on any rad, the GTX works pretty good with 47+cfm fans, but the 86cfm would still be better...The Kaze are good fans to, I don't really know how well they work on a controller...I like 120x38mm fans for their higher pressure, they seem to scavenge air through the rad a lot better then the skinny fans..

I'd use shrouds on either one..

..How To: Make any Sized shroud in 2 minutes

..How To: Build A Performance Shroud

..Poll: Push or pull configuration for Radiators

..Part 1- Temp's with and with-out shrouds

I like to use a res, a t-line is fine to, just a little slower to bleed...

I really like Masterkleer, you use it on 1/2" barbs, it flows about as well as 1/2", its more compact and easier to route around in your box...7/16x5/8"

This for full size...1/2x3/4"

3 or so zip-ties on each barbs or automotive clamps are fine...

I'll leave you my cleaning and set-up PDF, clean all your gear well before you use it..It has my coolant recipe in it also...
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post #3 of 17
Thread Starter 
Thanks ira-k! I've read most of the link, but it's always handy to have it

I was thinking about MC-TDX as the CPU block. How does that compare to Fuzion v1 ?
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post #4 of 17
The Fuzion is better by a bit.

EDIT : Blag, it may be better by 1C but you do have to stop and ask yourself, "Is this 1C going to do much for me?" Get any of the top contenders. They will all work for you.
Edited by MomijiTMO - 6/4/08 at 7:48pm
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post #5 of 17
Hey NP...The multi-core TDX should be fine to if you would rather have it...

You might want to grab some Pentosin for a coolant.Pentosin...And some PT Nuke for a biocide when you order from Petra's.PT Nuke..The Pentosin will make 40 onces of coolant mixed at 10-1 with distilled...

These are some other good shops I buy a lot of my gear from, I look around and try to snag stuff when its on sale...

..Jab-tech

..Sidewinders

..Danger Den

..SVC

..McMaster-Carr
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post #6 of 17
Thread Starter 
If I'm going to gut some 120mm x 25mm fans, would they work fine too? or How much of a performance would i lose by not using the 38mm?
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post #7 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyVirus View Post
If I'm going to gut some 120mm x 25mm fans, would they work fine too? or How much of a performance would i lose by not using the 38mm?
The 25mm are .98", I've always heard 1.5" is optimum depth...But I've used 1/2"-2" and they all helped it some...Any shroud is better then none...I've seen some guys gut 2-25mm and stack them for a 1.96" depth, I think that would work pretty well like that, if you only want to use one 25mm for a shroud I'd go for it...I wouldn't use a rad without some kind of shroud on it, they are great for performance....

Just be sure to seal the shroud to your rad and the fans to your shroud, you want them air tight so all the air flow is pulled through your rad...I use clear silicone, those cheap silicone fan gaskets work pretty well to on the fan side, I have used them several time also...
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post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 
MM so far, I have BIX 360 and D5 Vario for about $90. I was going to get the tubing, coolant, fans NEW, so I think the total without the CPU block and a reservoir would be maybe $150ish?

Now, for the CPU block how big of a difference is there between Fuzion v1, v2, and Apogee GT
*MC-TDX is a bit worse than v1 according to people, so those I guess I can judge it by just comparing these 3.

Thanks!
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post #9 of 17
The Fuzion V2 preforms better than the V1 but is more restrictive [so going from a low restriction block to a medium restriction block]. Grab which ever one you want as both are good.
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post #10 of 17
Thread Starter 
hm...how about temperature-wise?
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