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post #21 of 57
Thread Starter 
How do you propose "sticking" them on so that I never have to worry about them and so that they don't rattle on the fins?

Also, they may "look" capable from that picture but my opinion after a close visual inspection is not that they are "quite capable" yet "barely adequate"

both reasons why I'd rather just swap them out.
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post #22 of 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by razar View Post
How do you propose "sticking" them on so that I never have to worry about them and so that they don't rattle on the fins?

Also, they may "look" capable from that picture but my opinion after a close visual inspection is not that they are "quite capable" yet "barely adequate"

both reasons why I'd rather just swap them out.
Zip ties. Use a rubber washer and pass a ziptie through it. Pass this ziptie through the HS and then fan. The use another washer and ziptie head to secure it. Repeat 4 times per HS.

Also, how about adding a PCI slot cooler to help with air flow?
Edited by DuckieHo - 6/10/08 at 7:56am
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post #23 of 57
Thread Starter 
you must have some very tiny ziptie's....
I appreciate the input but these things need to have a copper base....exactly what they are using I don't know, but its not copper.
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post #24 of 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by razar View Post
you must have some very tiny ziptie's....
I appreciate the input but these things need to have a copper base....exactly what they are using I don't know, but its not copper.
What are the dimensions of the HS? What is the fin spacing distance?


The base is probably aluminum... or maybe nickel-plated copper.



Oh, remove the fan grill. It is not need if you are careful. It only reduces airflow and increases noise.
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post #25 of 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckieHo View Post
The base is probably aluminum... or maybe nickel-plated copper.
You just gave me an idea Should have thought of this...

If the base is nickel-plated copper, you may be able to get away with just lapping it.

Also, depending on the way the shroud is built, another idea could be simply to block air from going around the heatsinks with some sort of padding - forcing it to go between the fins. If these heatsinks are designed like their desktop ones, the fins are way too close together for the passive cooling they attempt and this would help tremendously.

Edit: I just noticed the heatsink lying there in the front, the fins are definitely too close together for passive cooling.

AND....couldn't you just install a fan controller? lol. Maybe the system CAN handle the heat with the fans at a normal speed.
Edited by Manyak - 6/10/08 at 8:28am
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post #26 of 57
Thread Starter 
I would much rather replace the HS's then lap that many of em....*shudder* your insane. lol

the fin spacing is just barely under 2mm...the fin area is 85mm tall x 75mm wide. I could get away with an 80mm fan on each HS

Oh and Manyak, they have a built in fan controller that is not user adjustable. Thats part of the problem. It likes to run at high speed based on temp and does not always slow down. If I were to disconnect the fans and plug them into a 3rd party fan controller the BIOS would not allow the system to boot thinking that the fans have failed.
Edited by razar - 6/10/08 at 8:59am
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post #27 of 57
anyway, back to the WC.

judging from the pics, you could get away with using a thin 240mm rad in the front, for which i'd have to recommend either Swiftech's MCR-220-RES, or much better, the Magicool Elegance 240. both should fit, and both have a reservoir in the top endtank, so you dont need to fit a res anywhere else.
the magicool is made of pure copper, while the swifty only has copper fins, but brass tubes, making the magicool much better. (testing has proven this, and shown that these rads, like the PA series, beat all competition in silent cooling)

i assume the fans in front are 140-160mm's? they look really large. especially after you saying you could fit an 80 on each sink. if so, you should have enough space for the mentioned rads.

as for the pump, go with a DDC-3.1, the 10w version. less powerfull, but strong enough, and should make less noise while consuming less power (which means it doesnt get as hot). i wouldnt replace the top, just run 3/8" tubing on everything.

ira-k already linked to the xeon blocks.

radiator:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=23792
review (german)
http://eiskaltmacher.de/portal/index...&limitstart=11
(as you see, the only rads beating it are the ones that are over twice as thick)
Pics: (click on pics to enlarge, really hi res)
http://www.eiskaltmacher.com/portal/...2_itemId=28386
http://www.eiskaltmacher.com/portal/...2_itemId=28410
dimensions:
305 x 122 x 34 mm
Edited by ChielScape - 6/10/08 at 10:32am
post #28 of 57
WOOT 200 WC rigs...wonder how long that project will take to finnish. subscribed!
I say dont listen to those air thumpers. Your boss wants WC! Give the man what he asked for...hell he kicked down a $20k rig for you to test on!
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post #29 of 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIRTYDUCK View Post
WOOT 200 WC rigs...wonder how long that project will take to finnish. subscribed!
I say dont listen to those air thumpers. Your boss wants WC! Give the man what he asked for...hell he kicked down a $20k rig for you to test on!
QFT
post #30 of 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIRTYDUCK View Post
WOOT 200 WC rigs...wonder how long that project will take to finnish. subscribed!
I say dont listen to those air thumpers. Your boss wants WC! Give the man what he asked for...hell he kicked down a $20k rig for you to test on!
And then a year from now when they all clog up from some mineral deposits or run dry from a leaky tube and $400,000 worth of equipment just suddenly dies, he can tell his boss "but it was so COOL!".
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