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post #51 of 57
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cool
I'm wondering....If i'm sending the rpm signal if I should connect the ground as well....
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post #52 of 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by razar View Post
cool
I'm wondering....If i'm sending the rpm signal if I should connect the ground as well....
Nah no need. The entire computer is on a common ground at the PSU, so the circuit will work fine.

I did forget to mention though, if you are having trouble then you need to clear the error log in BIOS (or reset CMOS, whichever is easier for you). It logs the fan error, and then keeps on displaying the message until you erase it. Pretty damn annoying lol.
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post #53 of 57
Thread Starter 
quiet and cool......

I do need to swap the rear case fan....it requires a buttload of voltage to get it started and is way to loud at that setting.

If we do this to more systems I'm going to include a micro-res as well. This mcr220 with built in res needs a bigger res to properly be able to bleed the system. The picture looks ok since it's not running but as soon as it gets runnin I get bubbles and the rad/res is full.

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post #54 of 57
Why don't you switch the tubing on the upper block? Switch the inlet and outlets. This would reduce some of the bends.


Are these workstation all in the same area? Any chance of connecting the cooling together?
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post #55 of 57
Thread Starter 
seems to me the bends would be about the same.....

some are, some aren't. It really needs to stay internal to keep lusers hands off it. Even the fan controller will get pushed back and the blank plate reinstalled so it can't be adjusted.
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post #56 of 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by razar View Post
seems to me the bends would be about the same.....

some are, some aren't. It really needs to stay internal to keep lusers hands off it. Even the fan controller will get pushed back and the blank plate reinstalled so it can't be adjusted.
No.. the bends would definitely be better. The tubing currently bends in a S from the top block to the rad. Moving the outlet to the other side would make this just a single bend. The bend from the bottom block to the top block is pretty sharp. I can tell from the pic that the tubing is starting to kink. Moving the inlet on the top block to the left will allow you to use a slighter longer piece of tubing to relieve the bend. Less tight bends means less stress on the fittings... reduced leak chances. Believe me.
Edited by DuckieHo - 6/27/08 at 10:00am
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post #57 of 57
Thread Starter 
Since you put it that way....it makes sense.... +
I'll have something more to do on monday besides just installing the res.
Edited by razar - 6/27/08 at 10:03am
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