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Noob needs help with e7200 overclocking - Page 3

post #21 of 52
What is your ambient/case temp?
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Little Beast
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Black 'n' blue II
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post #22 of 52
Thread Starter 
It ranges from 42-45c
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post #23 of 52
Thread Starter 
Just ran 3dmark 06... stock speeds got me around 10200 when over clocked to 3.2 I scored 11482!! Cpu never went above 60c, I'm about to stress test... I really can't accept these temps as accurate.

On a wierd note 3dmark thought my processor was running at 3.8ghz
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post #24 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longer Shot View Post
Ok I down clocked it to 3ghz with 1.2v and the thing runs 60-65c on half load! Also core temp is reading default voltages and cpu-z reads 1.2v... At idle im getting 55c

Arctic freezer pro 7 comes with a pre applied mx2
Are the pins (for the freezer pro) pushed all the way in? I just bought the same mainboard that you have listed in your sig along with an E8400, and any voltage change I make in the bios is ignored and stays at stock, so I am limited at overclocking. I then read about the issue with this board. The E7200 that I have will not run 333 x 9 at stock volts. It will run 3GHz with no voltage change though.

Your board will limit your overclock until a newer bios is released.

edit to add: I do not want to go crazy with voltage either, but want to add just a little.
Edited by TonyLee - 6/14/08 at 12:18pm
post #25 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longer Shot View Post

On a wierd note 3dmark thought my processor was running at 3.8ghz
Did you change the multiplier on the chip from 9.5 to something lower? If 3dmark is like Windows, it will take whatever FSB setting you have and multiply it times your default multiplier even if you lower it. If you have your FSB set to 400, and your multiplier set to 8, then Windows will display the speed (incorrectly) as 3.8GHz (400 x 9.5).
post #26 of 52
Thread Starter 
There is one pin that just wont go no matter how hard I push, any harder and something will break. But it looks like its making good contact, and on my board im pretty sure the voltage works, tried booting on stock voltage at 3.2ghz and didnt make it to windows. Upped the voltage to 1.1v and it booted pretty fast. I might up volts some more depending on what these stress tests show.

Currently
3.2ghz 1.1v
50c idle with core temp - real temp shows this at 40c - speed fan shows this at 45c
60c load with core temp - real temp shows this 50c - speed fan shows this at 55c
Ambient at 46c

Yeah Tony stock multiplyer was 8.5, I dropped it to 8x400
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post #27 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longer Shot View Post
There is one pin that just wont go no matter how hard I push, any harder and something will break. But it looks like its making good contact, and on my board im pretty sure the voltage works, tried booting on stock voltage at 3.2ghz and didnt make it to windows. Upped the voltage to 1.1v and it booted pretty fast. I might up volts some more depending on what these stress tests show.

Currently
3.2ghz 1.1v
50c idle with core temp - real temp shows this at 40c - speed fan shows this at 45c
60c load with core temp - real temp shows this 50c - speed fan shows this at 55c
Ambient at 46c

Yeah Tony stock multiplyer was 8.5, I dropped it to 8x400
push harder thats why your temps are crap you keep pushing it will go in. stock multi 9.5
    
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post #28 of 52
Thread Starter 
Ok I will get that damn pin in! Also I just did prime95 and stopped it at like a couple minutes in because cpu temps hit 67c.
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E7200 @ 3.6Ghz 1.184v GIGABYTE GA-EP35-DS3L EVGA GeForce 8800 GT 512MB G. Skill 4x1gb DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) 
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post #29 of 52
Thread Starter 
arctic gets me 53cidle stock fan gets me 48c idle I'm done with push pin garbage and most likely sending the arctic trash back. The damn plastic pins bent backwards and its too big to get at ( had to take the psu out to get to the pins.
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First Build
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E7200 @ 3.6Ghz 1.184v GIGABYTE GA-EP35-DS3L EVGA GeForce 8800 GT 512MB G. Skill 4x1gb DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
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post #30 of 52
Few things here,

1. There is nothing wrong with his board, its a EP35-DS3L and thats not even close to a board that limits overclocks. While on disscussion about motherboards if you do not have bios F4 which is latest, grab it here: http://www.giga-byte.com/Support/Mot...ProductID=2778

2. The voltage reading you see with CoreTemp is the VID, that is a constant set voltage in the factory and is the default or stock voltage for your specific processor at it's stock speed. It is NOT current voltage.

3. The temp reading in bios is Tcase and is supposed to be different than idle and load temps, the ammount of load on the CPU when in bios is about 50~60%. RealTemp and CoreTemp read Tjunction which means core temps, not Tcase. One rule to remember is Tjunction is always higher than Tcase as its the heat source. If not then somethings wrong, its like saying the pot of water on the stove is hotter than the burner.

4. Trust CPU-Z for CURRENT CPU vcore, it can be found here: http://cpuid.com/cpuz.php Make sure your vcore is no higher than 1.36v under load, you should be fine even to 1.40v but its best to play it safe.

5. If you use CoreTemp for 45nm processors edit it's .ini file so Tj max reads 95c, if you do not want to bother with it then use RealTemp. If you like to use SpeedFan set an offset to the core 0 and core 1 temps untill they match RealTemp, that will tell SpeedFan to use 95c Tj max. Beware, many DTS are stuck on the new 45nm processors and do not detect low temps like mine, to counter this set very low vcore such as 0.80v, set FSB to 200Mhz, RAM 1:1 and CPU multi to 6.0. This will give you 1.2Ghz with near no heat output, the open Everest and look at the "CPU" reading which is your Tcase, if it reads 1c above your room ambient then its reading correct, if its reading lower then give it an offset so its 1c above ambient. If this is the case for you then use Tcase as your temp and make sure its no higher than 74c, everyone should be doing it anyway as Intel says: http://processorfinder.intel.com/Pop...el=ThermalSpec
     
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