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post #31 of 52
I just bought the ga ep35 ds3l board myself and cannot get any voltage (cpu)change to stick, and I have the F4 bios. Cpu Z shows the same idle and load even after "changing" the voltages in the bios. My other board is a Gigabyte, and it does not do this. The other board showed a normal vcore of 1.1875 volts (vid), and that 1.172 was being given to the cpu. I could change the voltage and the 1.172 number would change in the bios, but the equivalent number on this board will not change regardless of what I do with the voltages. Cpuz would reflect the change in idle and load voltages also. I am not referring to the vid.

Cpuz continues to show the same voltages for idle and load even after trying to change them in the bios of the ep35. There is even a thread on this board discussing this issue.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ssue-read.html
post #32 of 52
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GigaByte View Post
Few things here,

1. There is nothing wrong with his board, its a EP35-DS3L and thats not even close to a board that limits overclocks. While on disscussion about motherboards if you do not have bios F4 which is latest, grab it here: http://www.giga-byte.com/Support/Mot...ProductID=2778

2. The voltage reading you see with CoreTemp is the VID, that is a constant set voltage in the factory and is the default or stock voltage for your specific processor at it's stock speed. It is NOT current voltage.

3. The temp reading in bios is Tcase and is supposed to be different than idle and load temps, the ammount of load on the CPU when in bios is about 50~60%. RealTemp and CoreTemp read Tjunction which means core temps, not Tcase. One rule to remember is Tjunction is always higher than Tcase as its the heat source. If not then somethings wrong, its like saying the pot of water on the stove is hotter than the burner.

4. Trust CPU-Z for CURRENT CPU vcore, it can be found here: http://cpuid.com/cpuz.php Make sure your vcore is no higher than 1.36v under load, you should be fine even to 1.40v but its best to play it safe.

5. If you use CoreTemp for 45nm processors edit it's .ini file so Tj max reads 95c, if you do not want to bother with it then use RealTemp. If you like to use SpeedFan set an offset to the core 0 and core 1 temps untill they match RealTemp, that will tell SpeedFan to use 95c Tj max. Beware, many DTS are stuck on the new 45nm processors and do not detect low temps like mine, to counter this set very low vcore such as 0.80v, set FSB to 200Mhz, RAM 1:1 and CPU multi to 6.0. This will give you 1.2Ghz with near no heat output, the open Everest and look at the "CPU" reading which is your Tcase, if it reads 1c above your room ambient then its reading correct, if its reading lower then give it an offset so its 1c above ambient. If this is the case for you then use Tcase as your temp and make sure its no higher than 74c, everyone should be doing it anyway as Intel says: http://processorfinder.intel.com/Pop...el=ThermalSpec
If real temp is the most accurate I have been safe all along , low 40s idle mid 50s load. Too bad the stock fan is already in and my arctic is basically broken due to the damn plastic pins. Currently its at default volts 2.88ghz 38c idle mid 40s load
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post #33 of 52
Thats the first time I ever heard that about the EP35-DS3L, I'll assume this is a 50/50 chance problem then, I guess we will find out if the OP's board has the problem.
     
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post #34 of 52
I had trouble with the Arctic's pins - the secret is to understand what turning them does. Take it out of the case, and look at the pin itself. See what happens what you push it down and pull it up, and what happens when you turn it. Took me bloody hours to work out why I was struggling - you need to ignore the manual and see how it works with your own eyes!!
Once you get it on, it'll be worth it - it's a great HSF for the cash imo

Edit: I bent the pins as I didn't know what I was doing - a pair of pliers is all you need and you'll be back on track
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post #35 of 52
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chemicalfan View Post
I had trouble with the Arctic's pins - the secret is to understand what turning them does. Take it out of the case, and look at the pin itself. See what happens what you push it down and pull it up, and what happens when you turn it. Took me bloody hours to work out why I was struggling - you need to ignore the manual and see how it works with your own eyes!!
Once you get it on, it'll be worth it - it's a great HSF for the cash imo

Edit: I bent the pins as I didn't know what I was doing - a pair of pliers is all you need and you'll be back on track
Ill try to mount it again tomorrow, and hopefully it will hold...
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post #36 of 52
I just built my system(first time ever) yesterday, and i started overclocking, but your vcore seems high. Are you sure you need such a high vcore for 3.2Ghz? I had mine at 3.6Ghz with a vcore of 1.15v. It was stable too, i was able to play chrysis, and other games. Also have you found a program that you like for temps, my DFI board came with a program that show the CPU at around 35C, while Real Temp shows 27-30C. I also have it at 3.8Ghz on a 1.21vcore, but i set it high just to be on the safe side, i havent tried lowering the vcore yet.


I just saw your post on the push pins and yes they are a pain in the ass, it took me 20 minutes to install the pro freezer 7 the first time, then i remounted it, and one pin came undone, and as soon as i turned the PC on i relized it, thank got i was able to turn it off within 2-3 seconds! But now its ideling at 27-30C, and im in my basement with no air conditioning.
Edited by Infinitegrim - 6/14/08 at 9:48pm
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post #37 of 52
Thread Starter 
Remounted the Arctic Freezer 7 ( I tried two pins diagonal from each other at once and installed the thing in less than 5seconds! ). Real temp shows idle at 35c and load 45-50c... this is at default volts and running 2.88ghz.
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post #38 of 52
Arctic freezer seems crazy heat sink. Ok my temp always stay the same even if i oc to 3.6 or 3.8 i'm really to worried the chip has got to last me a week then my q6600.

E7200 has got senor problems i would stay that 333.3 FSB x 9.5 is a safe overclock you'll be achieving the same speed as the e8500
post #39 of 52
My temps in Core Temp

Clock Speed 3.33
Idle: 36
Load: 51

Clock Speed 3.56
Idle: 36
Load: 52

Clock Speed 3.61
Idle: 36
Load: 52

Clock Speed 3.8
Idle: 36
Load: 52

E7200 first batch of cpus have crap senors and mine just happens to be the first batch
post #40 of 52
Thread Starter 
When did you buy yours?
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