Originally Posted by Thingamajig
It's a new engine. i just want to be sure i don't do it any heat damage while perfecting my tuning.
Thanks alot for that link. there's some great info there.
if it does turn out to be pointless then, well, ive not lost much, besides a little AS5 and 10 minutes of my time
I'm running Byron Fuel, 30% nitro 11% oil.
Holy hell only 11% oil? Geez man no wonder she's runnin' hot. My LHS has some 30%N 18%O gallons if you need...that fuel isn't going to give you any over-lean tolerance, either. Should be great for power tho. I'm not willing to risk my engines, tho, the brand new OS 18 CV-RX in my 1/10 MT gets 20N 18O Wildcat RTR fuel.
Also, AS5 between head button and heatsink might help heat transfer between button and fins. I'd be worried about what might happen if glow fuel happens to get in there and mix with the AS5, which will happen if you flood it and use the unflood method I do(Glow plug out, crank till fountain quits spewing)
Ya know, first thought when I stepped into this thread is "He wants AS5 in his combustion chamber?!", as I didn't know the Savage cane with a two-part head. By the way, allowing AS5 into the chamber is WORSE than 60-grit to the piston and inside of sleeve...so be careful the stuff doesn't ooze down the glow plug hole and get in the chamber.
Originally Posted by TheNix
Just make sure not to get any of that stuff IN the engine when sealing it. Im not too sure if AS5 would handle the nitro fuel, you would be better off by cutting the front window as mentioned in a previous post, and running the engine rich until it is fully broken in. When the engine is still new its very tight, and can get pretty hot (if you read the instructions that came with your car concerning tuning the engine, it should mention that during break-in the engine should be run very rich as to not let it get very hot)
The easy (and cheapskate) way to test if the engine is running hotter than it should be is usually just put saliva on your finger and swipe it on the head while running, if it evaporates extremely quickly shut it down, if it takes 4-7 seconds it should be fine.
Getting an infrared thermometer from a hobby shop would be best, as you should really take the temperature from near the cylinder and not the head.
I've moved on from nitro powered to petrol now in the 1/5 scale, 1 hour runtimes simply rock. You get tired before the tank empties out
I use the spit-test on mine, but instead I get the liquid onto the glow plug itself. 3 seconds before it boils off of mine!
Oddly, sometimes I can actually touch the top fin on my head while the liquid boils off the glow plug in only 3 seconds...Edited by TestECull - 6/18/08 at 10:35pm