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I just don't get it! (Trying to OC my E8400!) - Page 3

post #21 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by guyladouche View Post
Hmm...36C idle is a bit on the warm side, but depending on ambients, quite within the acceptable range for normal air cooling. However, you don't have strict air cooling...I'd expect your idle temp to be much lower with a TEC solution... My instinct is that the seating of the HSF is bad, or too much/too little thermal paste was applied. If you're comfortable with it, i'd suggest reseating the HSF, and applying a proper amount of thermal paste in the proper method. And while you're at it, if you have the means, test to see if the TEC plate actually works--which might be difficult, and I don't have a suggestion on how to do so at the moment (and it's getting late and I'm tired from moving the gf to the new place today--maybe I'll be more coherent/helpful in the morning...). For now, I'd say stock, you're within safe limits--but the OC is the problem...lemme think about it more...
Ok sounds good to me. We'll revisit this tomorrow. I was a bit surprised when I saw that temperature too. Not because I know which temp is right, but because the TEC display says 26C, RealTemp says 36C, and HWMonitor says 46C. Which temp source is most reliable?
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post #22 of 37
Your chip is a 45nm
if thats the case then Realtemp provides 99% accuracy on your temperature cores.
You wouldn't believe the research unclewebb has done to program and build realtemp.
post #23 of 37
ok, your vcore looks really low. which tells me that you have speedstep/c1e enabled. disable those.

your max vcore is only 1.17V, which is low, even for stock speeds.

95º is too high, even if it was an incorrect temp reading like most 45nm have, it's still too high. make sure you have the heat sink seated properly, the thermal paste applied properly and make sure the paste is burned in. as5 has a nice how to on applying thermal paste here:
http://www.arcticsilver.com/ins_rout...2intelas5.html
 
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post #24 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seire View Post
Ok sounds good to me. We'll revisit this tomorrow. I was a bit surprised when I saw that temperature too. Not because I know which temp is right, but because the TEC display says 26C, RealTemp says 36C, and HWMonitor says 46C. Which temp source is most reliable?
I would go with realtemp. As for the TEC display that came with your HSF--in another review I saw, it was also stuck at 26C and never changed--so it seems like a bug in the HSF. Besides, I don't know how the HSF can know what the temperature of the CPU is if it's not interfacing with the sensor on the CPU (which, from what I understand of how the HSF works, it is not)--so I would immediately discount the temp reading on the TEC display, and just ignore it for good.

One thing you might want to check is that something like "automatic CPU fan control" is disabled in the BIOS--since the TEC will be adjusting itself based on CPU temperature.

Well, i'm going back to the idea that the HSF isn't seated properly, or the thermal paste application is not right.

Here's what I thought of to test if the TEC works on that HSF--you'll need a second HSF (anything cheap to temporarily mount and use). Remove the TEC HSF, but leave everything plugged in. Install a temporary replacement CPU HSF (remember to plug in the fan for this HSF somewhere--you'll have to reserve the CPU's HSF fan for the TEC). After the replacement HSF is mounted, and keeping the TEC plugged in but separate from anything, power on the system and feel the contact surface of the TEC--it should be noticeably cool (at least, cooler than room temp) and stay that way--if you have a temperature prob/thermocouple for a voltmeter you could tape the sensor to the TEC surface and verify that temps don't get warm.

That's my suggestion--or you could RMA the system and tell them that the CPU overheats...

Well, those are my suggestions--I'm not sure what else it could be. Easiest thing would be to try a reseat of the HSF--if you're not comfy with that, we can help you through it. Other than that...I'm out of ideas...
    
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post #25 of 37
Agree with above statements. Sometimes, system identifying programs contradict scripts displaying misinformation but I would rely on Real Temp.

When you restart your system, go to bios then health status(don't know your bios) and check the temps and volts of your CPU. Along with what svtfmook said on #23, you need to disable the CIE and PPM(EIST) mode in CPU feature also in the bios.

Reapplying the thermal paste correctly, though, wouldn't give you significant boost. Maybe, 2-5 degrees max.
    
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post #26 of 37
Thread Starter 
Hey folks.

So, I did what was recommended with reseating my ChillTec. Also applied new thermal paste as per the instructions provided with the tube I purchased from Fry's. The change was futile.

I ran OCCT for stability, after going into the BIOS and inputting the OC recommendations in this thread. I upped the vcore voltage to 1.25. I put the FSB to 400 from 333. I disabled C1E and SpeedStep or whatever it's called. I did all that. OCCT's 1-hour test failed with 40 minutes remaining. Again, the cpu was just too hot.

Honestly, I think the ChillTec is a $130 heaping pile of crap. At the normal clock speed, it's fine. At an OC'd idle, it's fine. Under a 90% or greater load, it just can't do it's job properly.

I'm thinking about "upgrading" to the Thermaltake V1. Any thoughts?
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post #27 of 37
Apparently, some have had disturbing problems with the TEC mounted upside down: http://hothardware.com/Articles/Ultr...ooler/?page=10

Regardless, even when the Ultra ChillTec works as advertised, it's not worth 130 bucks.
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post #28 of 37
Agree
    
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post #29 of 37
Thread Starter 
Ya I read that review right after I received my computer. Oh well. Thermalright V1? Good cpu cooler for OCing?
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Coo Coo Ka Chu
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post #30 of 37
Either the OCZ Vendetta2, TRUE or TT120 would do just fine, kinda one for each price range.
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