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[Project] HgEvolution: V1.2: 95% complete - Page 5

post #41 of 104
Thread Starter 
thanks whe3ls! I'm glad I have an backup rig (sig rig) right now so I don't have to rush the water loop build. I think its going to look sick when its done.

I kinda want to sell the 88GTX tho and upgrade to a 4870, but I'm 20 rep away from being allowed to post in the "For Sale" thread... :swearing: Oh well, I'll get the rep soon enough.

Anyway I will update tomorrow probably; whenever I have the paper to finish the lap jobs... I know its a fragmented and poorly-documented work-log, but it's my first, so cut me some slizz-ack! THnx
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post #42 of 104
That mobo looks slick with all the copper
WC ftw!
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WC ftw!
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post #43 of 104
I thought you meant mercury cooling, as in pumping liquid metal. I was like WOAH!

Cool nonetheless. Will be checking it out.
Indigo Hammer
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post #44 of 104
Thread Starter 
no, sorry max. the case is called the 3D Mercury and thus my project is called simply Mercury.
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post #45 of 104
Thread Starter 
K well I got some 2000-grit paper which looks like as high as I'll need to go... The contact surface of the water blocks are smooth and very flat. They're so mirrored that its easy to check for flatness by examining the image that you can see reflected in the copper and check for abnormal or distorted areas. I used a pair of scissors because they have some good straight edges which should show any imperfections in the reflection. I also used the razor blade test to check flatness... I think its more reliable than just trusting your eyes. K here's some snaps at 2k grit..

DD block on the lapping board


DD block vertical reflection


DD block horizontal reflection


Swifty MCW60-R


These blocks aren't going to get much flatter at all, and I doubt that more lapping will affect temps more than a couple tenths of a degree. I might do maximum an hour more on the blocks then hook up the loop and leak test tonight...

EDIT: Got a nice shot of the MC-TDX reflecting the Yamaha logo on one of my speaks..


Edited by MCBrown.CA - 7/29/08 at 8:23pm
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post #46 of 104
Thread Starter 
The loop is all sealed up and ready to be leak-tested. I'm going to do it tomorrow though cause want to have enough time to dedicate to doing it right.


Swifty tube clamps won't fit on to 3/4" OD tubing on the MCW60-R GPU water block. I used 2 small zip-ties with staggered connection points. It was kind of a pain to get the ends up in the middle but a thin screwdriver helps.
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post #47 of 104
Thread Starter 
Ok. I have filled the loop.. and its running right now. I added 2 Primochill Invisible blue dye bombs so it should look good at night too...


AS you'll have noticed, I have encountered a strange issue. The Primochill PC-Ice is foaming really badly... like almost out and over the blow-hole of the MicroRES.


Also when the pump is running the coolant looks white, like soapy water. When the pump is off the coolant looks clear like it should. Maybe it will settle? Should I try to scoop the foam off the top of the reservoir?


I am a huge idiot. I thought I had 2 bottles of PC-ICE but one of them was PC PURE. The labels on the bottles look very similar and I didnt notice till after I had mixed the two. I filled the loop first using the whole bottle of PC-ICE (32OZ) and then topped it up with ~1/12th of the bottle of PC PURE (about 4OZ). The PC ICE coolant was foaming before I added the PC PURE so I know that's not causing the foam.

I know that mixing coolants is bad news... I'm hoping that since they are the same manufacturer and color and what not that its not a huge deal but ill drain the loop and flush it out anyway... I will order 2 more bottles of PC ICE to do this thing properly... I'm uber pissed right now. stupid me :swearing:

EDIT: I actually might not drain it. the bubbles are dissipating pretty fast and i think ill take my chances with the mixed coolant. if neither of the coolants cause corrosion then they shouldnt cause corrosion when combined...
Edited by MCBrown.CA - 7/30/08 at 6:13pm
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post #48 of 104
Thread Starter 
Loop has been running for a few hours now and the bubbles are pretty much all gone.



There's been no leaks so far.. it seems that the D-Tek chrome barbs + Tygon 1/2" + Swiftech tube clamps = solid connection as I haven't had any leaks in the 2 loops I've built with this gear... There's still some foam in the reservoir. If its still there after running all night then I'll get a straw and suck it out or something, lol.



The clear tubing/coolant/tube-coils are looking better than I expected, I can't wait to get the UV orange DFI board in there with the 4X1GB Tracers with all the LED's going...
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post #49 of 104
Wow, that UV effect looks awesome man!
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post #50 of 104
Thread Starter 
thx repo!

The loop has been running constantly for the last couple days. I haven't been watching it too much and I didn't wrap the connections in paper towel and then check every few hours like I did with my first loop. It would be hard to see clear coolant on paper towel anyway...

There haven't been any leaks and there is not a single bubble or pocket of air anywhere in the tubing. I think its been running about 10 hours total so far.

The 10-pack of fan grills that I ordered from eBay arrived today! They are a simple cheap mod - I payed $0.75 each and they came with black screws - but they add a nice 'finished' feel to the build.





It's easier to go through 10 grills that you'd think!



Also, a couple of the ram-sinks on the 8800GTX fell off as I was manhandling it out of my first loop (not fun). I cleaned the ram-sinks and the ram chips and re-applied them with a small spot of Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive in two opposite corners and a larger spot of AS5 in the center.



I am ordering some Enzotech half-height heatsinks for the 2 memory chips right below the inlet/outlet barbs on the GPU waterblock. The full-height -sinks don't fit with 3/4" OD tubing...
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