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[Project] HgEvolution: V1.2: 95% complete - Page 9

post #81 of 104
Nice work on this bro!!! For a first/second timer, it's pretty darned good!

In regards to this picture:



Can somebody please clarify this for me? I believe that the orientation should have this part flipped so that the flat part is flush with the back of the mobo. This not only raises the holes for the bolts(that you ground off) for a more secure connection, but provides a little more rigidity for the CPU block mounting. Well, that's the way I've been mounting my hardware for years. I'm now questioning my methods.
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post #82 of 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by miggs78 View Post
I luv DFI boards, the UV effect is just tremendous. That is some nice UV stuff.

Quick question, what kind of screws did you use to mount your rad. Or did you just use the strong adhesive pad that came with it.
Gah!! I did it again. I meant to ask the pump, did you use any nuts and bolts.
post #83 of 104
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Indignity View Post
Nice work on this bro!!! For a first/second timer, it's pretty darned good!

In regards to this picture:



Can somebody please clarify this for me? I believe that the orientation should have this part flipped so that the flat part is flush with the back of the mobo. This not only raises the holes for the bolts(that you ground off) for a more secure connection, but provides a little more rigidity for the CPU block mounting. Well, that's the way I've been mounting my hardware for years. I'm now questioning my methods.
Hey thanks my friend!

In response to your quest, if the back-plate was flipped, the outer raised rim of the plate would be making contact with the mother board. Those are decently sharp, un-finished edges. Not what I want putting pressure on my new board, padded or not.

If you check out the picture below of the top side of the plate...



...you can see there is an 'X' (or '+', lol)-shaped raised surface with a hollow square in the center. This is the part of the plate that applies pressure to the board to prevent bending and supports the CPU socket. The edges are smooth and rounded. This is is also the area covered by the foam pad I made. The plate applies pressure 'through' the pad, so to speak...

Quote:
Originally Posted by miggs78 View Post
Gah!! I did it again. I meant to ask the pump, did you use any nuts and bolts.
Haha no worries miggs! I was planning on hard-mounting the pump with the supplied hardware and a Petras Gel pad but that was too hard to mount, so I just used an 1" -square piece of Velcro on the base of the pump. This allows the pump to be moved to adjust the speed. Once, again I have found 'soft-mounting' to be the easiest solution.

I also pulled the pump into the perfect position with a couple zip-ties attached to the case in strategic locations. This helps a bit with vibration noise too.



Not a great pic, sorry, but I have to go to work for a few hours so I'm sorta rushing this out.

I did some sleeving late last night too. When I'm back home I'll post some more photos. peace

M
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post #84 of 104
Thread Starter 
Breakfast, lunch and dinner of champions:



This build should definitely be sponsored by Monster. If only they made an energy drink that was UV blue!

Here's another shot of the zip-ties that secure the pump. They're snug but not tight.



I had some cheap UV-blue sleeving lying around so I decided to use it to sleeve the fan and front panel cables. I would have preferred black sleeving but blue matches the system and the UV effects look nice. I also sleeved the two 6-pin PCI-E cables needed for the 8800GTX, not pictured in the photo. I split them into 3-pin strands and then sleeved them all together.



I had a couple extra 120mm fans that were either dead or cheap and loud. I cut the actual fan out of the housing and used the housing a poor-man's shroud. I had to pull the from 120 rad out of the case to get all the screws tightened up.



I bought this mod-friendly thermometer from a local hardware store for like $5. Very handy for getting a rough idea of ambient or case temps. Also if you remove it from it's ugly case and put an led behind it the LCD looks dope! The 'rainbow' effect on the LCD is picked up by the camera but it's not visible.



The CPU shipped out today, so if I'm lucky I might get the CPU on Friday.

More mod ideas are coming to me all the time for this case, but I don't have the funds to go any further right now.

Anyway, pretty happy with the result so far.

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post #85 of 104
Wow $5 bucks is cheap. That is always a nice way to mount a rad. I screwed up a little on the rad box, those tiny black screws that attach both black pieces, I messed the threads, so now I'm thinking of using a fan shroud.

Eh!! Where you running, you said more photos also showing the sleeving..
post #86 of 104
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by miggs78 View Post
Wow $5 bucks is cheap. That is always a nice way to mount a rad. I screwed up a little on the rad box, those tiny black screws that attach both black pieces, I messed the threads, so now I'm thinking of using a fan shroud.

Eh!! Where you running, you said more photos also showing the sleeving..
A shroud should work fine. I'd suggest mounting it with the longest screws you can find. IE bolt through the fan(s) and the shroud into the rad, instead of screwing the shroud to the rad and the fan to the shroud... hope that makes sense. This should help with strength quite a bit.

Yea, when I first unpacked my Radbox and looked at the way it mounts I though there's no way it would support a 220 rad with 4 fans (let alone a 320, which I have heard of people doing). Doesn't seem to mind the weight though...

I took some more photos of the sleeving. It's pretty cheap stuff. The heat-shrink is a nice UV blue but it doesn't shrink all that much so I had to use zip-ties in some places to make sure the sleeving didn't slide around (still did a little in some places )



This one shows the PCI-E cables sleeved together. I will try to hide this cable or at least mask it somewhat by incorporating it into the curvy mass of tubing sort of above the RAM. The PCI-E cables with be curved and twisted in a similar manner, as in the photo.



I sleeved the two 'push' fans together and the two 'pull' fans on the rear rad together. I used zip-ties to fasten the sleeving in out-of-sight areas because I only have a small amount of that sized heat-shrink left. The sleeving slipped a bit on one of these cables so it looks wider than the other...



I sleeved the whole length of front-panel connector cables. About 10" from the ends that plug into the mobo I separated the cables into 2 sleeved strands. The separation is hidden under the hard-drive cage. This helps to match the 2 sleeved fan cables in the bottom of the case and the 2 UV sata cables. There is a nice slot up the front of the case for these cables to hide.



This shows the back side of the case. Notice multiple areas for stashing ugly wires and passing wires through hidden places. Cables management is definitely a strong point with this case. A little effort is required but the results are great!



Two side panels came with the case, a mesh panel and a transparent acrylic panel. The mesh panel has the thermal advantage and the acrylic lets you show off your gear.



Unfortunately, the acrylic panel has some sort of distortion in it. I say 'in it' because it is a characteristic of the panel itself. I have tried buffing it out and polishing it but the plexi itself has a sort of faint rainbow blurriness to it (not visible in the photo). I know some good local plastics shops so I will have one of them fab me a new side panel in the next couple weeks.

Speaking of side panels, I have discovered a small issue that I'll need to deal with at some point. A couple of the tubes are slightly too long and they actually prevent me from mounting the side panel when the mesh or acrylic panel is in it. This is a photo with no window-panel mounted in the side. Doesn't show the problem very clearly...



Once I get the build finished and the blocks mounted I will probably be able to partially pull the tubing out of the way gently with zip-ties. The original panel-windows mount to the inside of the side panel, so what I might do is mount the window on the outside of the panel to provide a little more clearance... I made this diagram in like 2 minutes - god I love Paint!! Image on the left is how the panel mounts now.



I will probably get the replacement acrylic panel a little thicker than the one that came with the case, maybe 3/8" or 1/4", and I might look into getting the acrylic slight smoked if it looks cool. I want a beefy 'industrial' look. I probably won't get the edges rounded, I'll leave them square to match the sharp straight lines and 90° angles on the case.

Today I'm going to dink around with the temperature sensors and work on the cable management a little more.

According to Canada Post's website my CPU should be here tomorrow.
Edited by MCBrown.CA - 8/14/08 at 10:22am
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post #87 of 104
Well the cable management speak for itself, really nice man. Did you also sleeve the SATA cables, if you did that orange looks slick, if you didn't they still do lol. The blue looks cool, especially with your liquid being blue, it will totally match. Brilliance!!.. I will always keep this mod in my mind, in fact I have it bookmarked. I decided to the modded Lian Li, but I will be using the gigabyte hopefully soon. As for mounting the rad, I'm thinking of getting metal brackets just to be safe, this shroud way and the rad box way, doesn't look to secure man.

This one deserved more than a +100. Freaking awesome!!. Somebody should nominate this as one of the Mod of the Month too.
post #88 of 104
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by miggs78 View Post
Well the cable management speak for itself, really nice man. Did you also sleeve the SATA cables, if you did that orange looks slick, if you didn't they still do lol. The blue looks cool, especially with your liquid being blue, it will totally match. Brilliance!!.. I will always keep this mod in my mind, in fact I have it bookmarked. I decided to the modded Lian Li, but I will be using the gigabyte hopefully soon. As for mounting the rad, I'm thinking of getting metal brackets just to be safe, this shroud way and the rad box way, doesn't look to secure man.

This one deserved more than a +100. Freaking awesome!!. Somebody should nominate this as one of the Mod of the Month too.
Thanks for the input miggs!

The orange SATA cables came with the motherboard. And mount the rad as securely as possible.. and if you
can, make it easy to mount as well so you can dismount when the loop is full to shake for air pockets. I found
this was essential in getting the air out of the rad - especially the rear rad because air rises to the top...
There's probably still some in there unfortunately.

My last order for this build arrived today. The part that is really important to this build is the CPU.
I also got a couple flash drives and some single LEDs for minor modding fun once the case is complete. and



And what a CPU... 2.83GHz stock running at 1333fsb with a thermal spec of 71.4 degrees and 12mb of cache.
I have high hopes for this thing (4GHz ):



Also notice the super low-profile HS that comes with this CPU. Might be good for modding to fit a GPU!



Last night, I sleeved the 2 exhaust case fan cables together with the last bit of sleeving I had that was the right
size. I also found the best-looking way to run the PCI-E's. I've decided to use a spare Antec Spot-cooler fan
to give the RAM some active cooling. I gave all 4 a test run at 1200Mhz in my secondary rig (sig rig currently)
and good lord do they run hot... like too hot to touch. Seriously

No UV:



UV!:



I am not going to lap the CPU right away I want to get it in the rig, check the VID and voltage, verify the mobo
is running OK and is playing happily with the RAM...

So I'm going to go do that right now! I'll post some screenies when it's running, hopefully from that rig.

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post #89 of 104
omg *faint*

Man MCBrown that is one hell of lighting you got there.
post #90 of 104
This is one amazing build. Clean and cool.

+rep
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