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post #11 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by eRazorzEDGE View Post
yeah, i believe stainless has a lot of nickel in it, that nice metal they've been plating all those nice aluminum and copper water blocks in. all the metal barbs r nickel plated as well.

i got a question, is galvanic corrosion still a problem if there is no electrolyte or electrical path between the metals present?
There are inhibitors you can put into your loop to slow the reaction ... but nothing can stop it completely ... that's why most peeps here would rather just avoid the possibility of it at all by not including conflicting metals in the loop. ( Aluminum and Copper )

As far as a conductor in the loop, your water is the electrolyte.
post #12 of 26
Thread Starter 
what if i'm not using water, what if i'm using feser one non-conductive coolant that's an ethyl glycol base?

and i know 4 years ppl have been putting aluminum heads on top of cast iron blocks n motors, does the anti-freeze they use 4 that put a damper on the situation?
    
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post #13 of 26
That's nice looking. I have the same case too
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post #14 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by eRazorzEDGE View Post
what if i'm not using water, what if i'm using feser one non-conductive coolant that's an ethyl glycol base?

and i know 4 years ppl have been putting aluminum heads on top of cast iron blocks n motors, does the anti-freeze they use 4 that put a damper on the situation?
coolants with corrosion inhibitors will only slow the corrosion process but won't prohibit it.

In a car engine coolants typically use a pretty high concentration of corrosion inhibitors to reduce the effects of corrosion, but using that much in terms of additives had a negative effect on cooling ability and as such is not desirable in a PC cooling loop.
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post #15 of 26
Besides the higher concentrations of coolant a lot of mixed metal car cooling systems like that will use a sacrificial zinc anode , usually right under the radiator cap, it will eat the zinc first...
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post #16 of 26
Thread Starter 
really, i didn't know they did that n cars rads. i knew they did that n crab pots 2 save the iron cages... maybe i'll put some zinc pellets n my rad
    
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post #17 of 26
Any type of corrosion in a PC H2O loop isn't good since the metal particulates that are absorbed in the water can clog the blocks.
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post #18 of 26
Thread Starter 
true, maybe i'll throw some iron chunks n there instead with a magnet?

ok, so they use brass and copper n rads... is the brass just tubes and end caps? and wouldn't that have and effect on the copper water blocks? or anything copper n ur loop?

and what about the nickel plated barb fittings?
    
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post #19 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by eRazorzEDGE View Post
true, maybe i'll throw some iron chunks n there instead with a magnet?

ok, so they use brass and copper n rads... is the brass just tubes and end caps? and wouldn't that have and effect on the copper water blocks? or anything copper n ur loop?

and what about the nickel plated barb fittings?
Brass and copper are fine together and the chrome is fine to...Mostly in a WC'ing loop the main metals not to mix are aluminum in any shape, form, plated, anodized, varnished, lacquered,permed, filleted, just don't use it...

Stick with copper, brass and the chromed fittings and you will be fine.Aluminum has a lot worse thermal conductivity then copper anyway.

Typical cold plate materials are aluminum and copper, but silver plates are now commercially available and the eutectic alloy of silver and copper is being evaluated.
The following are the thermal conductivity values (W/mK) used in the calculations:
  • Aluminum: 220
  • Copper: 388
  • Silver: 418
  • Silver/Copper (Cusil) Alloy: 515
Source...Cold Plate Materials and Thickness
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post #20 of 26
i agree with ira there stear clear of aluminium even if its coated i put nickel plated barbs on a custom res and i see a blue residue starting to form on the ends under the clear tubing

im getting rid of them fast so i dont ruin my block!

and congrats ira on making forum supervisor
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