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[Project] Heracles (Updated Oct16/2009) - Page 15

post #141 of 157
Lol, what? A modder that can't finish case mods?
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post #142 of 157
Exactly! Not to threadjack superk, but I am on the lookout for a dremel to borrow. Without one, I cannot do my planned cable management mods when I install the new CPU. Then maybe I might actually be a "modder," even if not overly ambitious.
     
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post #143 of 157
Thread Starter 
For the price of shipping to 'borrow' one you might as well just buy one? You can have them for as little as $20 up here, and they are actually decent quality.
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post #144 of 157
There are multiple levels of Dremels.
I know there's one or two budget ones, but then there's the 300, 400, and XPR series-es.
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post #145 of 157
Thread Starter 
Ok so ive nailed down the design for the side panel, but now.. I need some tips on cutting this one. The last side panel I did, the cut wasnt exactly straight, so I need some assistance with that.. All I have for tools is a dremel, and a hand-held jigsaw. I have metal cutting utilities for both tools, but not sure exactly how many TPI my metal bits are off hand, I know the teeth are pretty dense. Its a horrible jigsaw and despite having an alignment bar, the cuts are never straight and I find myself repairing crooked cuts. Practice doesnt make decent, let alone perfect in this case. Here is my plans.




The window I will be using is from an Antec 1200 replacement panel, I happened to have spare. I have the metal grill, fanmount, acrylic window, dust screen, and nippled retention bracket thingies.

Using this information as a reference, what tips has OCN for me?
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post #146 of 157
First, I would inspect that jig-saw to determine why it is not cutting straight. Then, attempt to repair or at least get the ol' nag to cut straight for about 10-minutes.

Ironically, most older tools are much more sturdy and reliable than newer, comparable tools.... the older ones just need some TLC to get them operating smoothly again.

Cutting the case panel:
  • An 8 tpi jigsaw blade will do the trick (like This one). Taking in to account that the side panel is aluminum
  • For the rounded corners, I would use a metal/alloy drill bit that was has the same radius that you desire for the opening. I would drill these 3 corners first.
  • Connect the outer edges using the jigsaw and a level that is clamped to the panel as a guide. note that you can either: 1) c-clamp the guide to the panel, and then the panel to a sturdy work-surface, or 2) Clamp the level and the panel to the work-surface using only 1 set of clamps.
  • Use the Dremel and a metal-grinding bit to remove the largest burrs, then sandpaper to remove the finer burrs.

Good luck.
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post #147 of 157
Syr hit the nail on the head. Use a drill bit/holesaw to make the corners. A jigsaw won't make a cut that rounded. Then it's just a matter of having a slow, steady hand for the straight cuts.
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post #148 of 157
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syrillian View Post
First, I would inspect that jig-saw to determine why it is not cutting straight. Then, attempt to repair or at least get the ol' nag to cut straight for about 10-minutes.

Ironically, most older tools are much more sturdy and reliable than newer, comparable tools.... the older ones just need some TLC to get them operating smoothly again.

Good luck.
Thanks for the tips! I tried what you had to say, had some success! Details below in bold!
  • An 8 tpi jigsaw blade will do the trick (like This one). Taking in to account that the side panel is aluminum I had 24 and 14 tpi metal bits, I used 14tpi
  • For the rounded corners, I would use a metal/alloy drill bit that was has the same radius that you desire for the opening. I would drill these 3 corners first. I had nothing on hand, and strapped for cash, so I used a circular dremel sanding stone, appears to have done the job well! After wards, it made a nice little groove in the stone, which I used to de-burr the entire window. Worked out well!
  • Connect the outer edges using the jigsaw and a level that is clamped to the panel as a guide. note that you can either: 1) c-clamp the guide to the panel, and then the panel to a sturdy work-surface, or 2) Clamp the level and the panel to the work-surface using only 1 set of clamps. No level, I used a piece of 1 x 6 wood hoping it would do a similar job
  • Use the Dremel and a metal-grinding bit to remove the largest burrs, then sandpaper to remove the finer burrs. Leftovers from rounding the corners proved useful for this very task!

PIX!



Cuts appear to be very straight. When getting in close, there are a few oh so tiny deviations, but those will be covered up by the C-Channel anyways.



The glass, and mesh are two different pieces. Its very hard to align them. Until I am prepared to fasten them in place, the pics will look a bit off, its very very difficult to get them to stay together properly
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post #149 of 157
Indeed, the cuts look good for what you had on hand.

If you are inclined, you could line the edge of the cut with automobile door trim. Doing so may hamper the mounting of the mesh, but it would leave a clean edge.

If you are having issues keeping the various layers aligned, then perhaps a dollop or 3 of 2-part epoxy would assist... not a lot, and not intended to be load bearing, just enough to keep things aligned until your mechanical fasteners are in place.

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post #150 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syrillian View Post
Indeed, the cuts look good for what you had on hand.

If you are inclined, you could line the edge of the cut with automobile door trim. Doing so may hamper the mounting of the mesh, but it would leave a clean edge.

If you are having issues keeping the various layers aligned, then perhaps a dollop or 3 of 2-part epoxy would assist... not a lot, and not intended to be load bearing, just enough to keep things aligned until your mechanical fasteners are in place.

Good point with the epoxy Sir Syr

And I agree, the cuts look great!
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