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My Sig Rig is heating up my room - Page 3

post #21 of 67
why not just sell one of the cards...?
post #22 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakg View Post
why not just sell one of the cards...?
*gasp* Voice of reason....run for your life!!!!

(that means I agree with you Jakq)
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Eowyn
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post #23 of 67
the only way i can see that is if you put an ice pack in the water to combat against the heat and evaporation
post #24 of 67
You would have to have such a large amount of water to absorb all that heat, it would just keep getting warmer and warmer...

I'd put the HSF' back on the cards, get some dryer flex tube and run it out a window, and hook them up to your cards exhaust...Maybe put a fan on the end of the duct to keep the hot air moving along in it...One in the tube close to the cards exhaust would help also...
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My System
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post #25 of 67
The air duct idea might work. Actually, if you put a 6inch air duct out your window, you might get rid of some excess heat. Keep your whole case closed except for a rear exhaust Then have the rear fan blowing into the air duct and out the window. Also, have a couple intake fans either on the side or on the front.
post #26 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by radodrill View Post
How is the humidity where you're currently living? Evaporative wet cooling towers work well in climates with low humidity and would allow for pretty good temps for the components; on a lot of PC elated forums you'd see them referred to as "bongs" (even so they have nothing to do with smoking weed; don't ask my why they're not referred to as cooling towers )

Evaporative cooling is often used in industry in climates with high temps and low humidity to cool cooling water for various equipment. The reason why evaporative cooling works well in low humidity regions is that it can bring the water temps down to around the ambient wet-bulb temperature, while aircooling or a standard H2O loop can only bring the temps down to the ambient dry-bulb temperature (used on thermometers); the lower the humidity, the lower the wet-bulb temperature is for any given dry-bulb temperature (for more info, look up psychrometrics and/or the psychrometric chart).
well explained .... rep +
post #27 of 67
I think even a large container of water might not work if running 24/7--what's the temperature of your room? Because if it's already warm, the reservoir will be warm, and you might not be any better off than air cooling. Hmm...I'll have to think about this more.

Off topic: whereabouts in northern california do you live? I'm guessing somewhere close to Sacramento?--that's where I am--it's been so god awful hot these days, and the terrible smoke on top of that makes it almost unbearable. I think last night the low was damn-near 80F...
    
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post #28 of 67
lol,dump the pool ,dump the window thingy,dump the waterblocks,,

GO PELTIER

Then u will say my pc is freezing my room...
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KiLLrBot 4.0
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post #29 of 67
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by guyladouche View Post

Off topic: whereabouts in northern california do you live? I'm guessing somewhere close to Sacramento?--that's where I am--it's been so god awful hot these days, and the terrible smoke on top of that makes it almost unbearable. I think last night the low was damn-near 80F...
Oakdale. The air is middle to low humidity, and hot. It's not quite the blast furnace that you have in Mojave down South, but close enough for me.

The room that I am talking about is garage, has no windows, has two doors. One of them is a side door. And yes it's hooked into the AC. But since I can't use it, well you get the point. Plus it's sheet rocked thanks to the fire portion of the building code. Basically by about 2PM if I run this rig the temperature in here syncs up with the outside, and it's just plain miserable.

And for those wondering the electric bill will be much higher for the entire Summer than a WC setup like this.
Edited by Jarhead - 7/9/08 at 11:52am
post #30 of 67
why don't you just sell your 2900XTs and get yourself a cooler card...?
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