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Building and Modding with Acrylic: A Q&A - Page 8

post #71 of 457
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syrillian View Post
When the protective film is first removed there is a fair amount of static build-up (but that could just be me as I "shock" fairly often )

In addition to what Rado stated below, I have found that saturating and cleaning the panel allows me to see any flaws, and prevents further marring of the panel.

But mainly for the alleviation of the static build-up.


Indy... how did you hurt yourself?
Rado, CD & Syrillian, thank you for the replies. I had no idea.. Seeing that I now have a 46" Sony Bravia, I might have to pick up some of this said magical liquid. My wife is constantly complaining that she is afraid to clean the screen lol!

As far as "Hurting myself", I don't know if you are referring to my "On Topic" post or if I somehow mentioned something?
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post #72 of 457
Thread Starter 
For what it is worth, cutting holes is best done with hole-saw bits. But, for those that have a rotary tool a clean opening can also be achieved.

This requires a sideways (spiral) bit, and a circle-cutting attachment:




1) Measure the radius. Ensure that the measurement bisects the center-point and includes the full width of the cutting blade. Additionally, with acrylic you may want to shorten the radius by 1/32†to account for slight chipping that will be sanded away at the time of clean-up.




Using the rotary tool and the attachment as the measuring device for the pilot holes is a sure-fire way to get it right the first time. Yes, one can make all measurements with a ruler/tape measure and drill the holes without using the rotary tool as a guide, but I for one tend to bork it up… this technique saves me a lot of ’ing… it hurts after awhile.

Drill the center-point hole, then use the pre-measured rotary tool to gauge the distance for the




It is no real issue to start and stop a cut due to obstructions, but when at all possible I set up the work so that the entire cut can be done in one swoop.

When it comes to smaller panels, it is the C-clamps that get in the way. This image shows the approximate location of the C-clamp footprint and therefore allows me to set the cut up so that the rotary tool can spin full 360-degrees without being hindered.


Set up and ready to rock-n-roll!




When cutting holes with the rotary tool, it is preferable to have the pilot holes be the exact same size as the spiral bit and the center-point guide. This alleviates the “varying radius sloppiness†(potential). If there is play in the rotary tool and attachment when it is sitting ready to start the cut, then when the cutting commences always have a slight amount of outward pressure. Doing so will ensure a clean and consistent arc.

One pitfall with cutting with a center-point guide is that at the end of the cut the rigidity is lost. To ensure that the bit does not jump and gouge into the piece for the project, change the intention from being outward, to that of a decreasing radius.

This is the point at which I change the cutting intention.



This will leave a small barb in the opening:



That is removed using this:




The rest of the cut will look similar to this:




To remove the barb, tap the area lightly with the sanding drum. If your rotary tool has no speed-control, take care as it is easier to remove more material than it is to put it back. If indeed the tool is on/off only, then switching to hand-sanding may be preferable.



Barb removed:



Once the barb has been leveled, use the rotary tool and sand the entire inner edge to remove any chipping on the edges. Uniform removal is recommended, so it one side needs a 1/32†removed, then remove that from the entire opening. Once cleaned up the edge will look similar to this:






The next step is profiling (if applicable), sanding and polishing.
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post #73 of 457
Awesome.
    
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post #74 of 457
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syrillian View Post
This is the point at which I change the cutting intention.


Syrillian, i've got a small question... you said this is the point you change the cutting intention, do you remove the rotary tool and set it at a new small radius to complete the cut or should you do it free hand?

and thanks for the guide

ps: i dont suppose it will be a good idea to cut holes this way for metal does it?
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post #75 of 457
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by k1t View Post
Syrillian, i've got a small question... you said this is the point you change the cutting intention, do you remove the rotary tool and set it at a new small radius to complete the cut or should you do it free hand?

and thanks for the guide

ps: i dont suppose it will be a good idea to cut holes this way for metal does it?
Heyah, K1t.

Hmm... I should have elaborated more, sorry.

The rotary tool maintains the same radius. Up until the point in the image that you quoted there is a slight amount of outward-tension on the rotary tool, this keeps the arc consistent (when the center point has some play).

When I get toward the end I start guiding in a decreasing radius. The lack of rigidity allows for this, and prevents the spiral-bit from biting jumping and biting into a section of the panel that is to be kept.

Metal: Anything that is read here is not necessarily transferable to metal or alloy work.

For metal and alloys, I would highly recommend a quality hole-saw.

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post #76 of 457
What is meant by changing the cutting intention is this: for normal cutting you apply a sideways pressure to move the Dremel in an arc about the bearing, but at the end you wand to apply more pressure towards the bearing (and just enough sideways pressure to keep it slowly cutting) so that when it breaks through the last piece the Dremel bit goes towards the center of the hole rather than cutting into the side of the fan hole.
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post #77 of 457
Going to have to get me a Dremel one of these days...
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post #78 of 457
Thread Starter 
Lol, Maestro.

That would be regression for you, Master.

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post #79 of 457
There's some things you need a Dremel to to do...larger tools just won't give you the finesse. Great guide..very nice of you to reveal the Arcane Arts.

But srsly I need to get a Dremel...I had a Ryobi knock off but it got wet ...that was years back.
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post #80 of 457
Thread Starter 
Indeed, the Dremel is a rapier; light and fast and maneuverable.

"Arcane Arts"... ... I was thinking more along the lines of "Prehistoric Arts" -lol. Much along the lines of a Luddite.

But yeah... I love the dremel. It is kinda like the Swiss-Army knife. It can do far more that just about any other single tool, but on a limited scale.

I love my Dremel. :
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