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[Official] ASUS M2N-SLI and M2N32-SLI Club! - Page 128

post #1271 of 12349
Quote:
Originally Posted by N2Gaming View Post
Thanks AllenG, I will try that now. should I push the power button or any thing while the battery is out to clear the capacitors?
nope, i turned the switch on the psu off and pulled the batt for about 30 sec. turned the switch back on and hit the power button. It took it a couple seconds to show the asus post screen, but it did come up.

Reason i say to do the batt is because the clear jumper didnt work for me either.
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post #1272 of 12349
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenG View Post
nope, i turned the switch on the psu off and pulled the batt for about 30 sec. turned the switch back on and hit the power button. It took it a couple seconds to show the asus post screen, but it did come up.

Reason i say to do the batt is because the clear jumper didnt work for me either.
well it's dead. I tried removing the battery, stripping everything from the mobo cept for cpu and ram and unplugged every power supply cable from the mobo and ide/sata cables etc removed the vga card removed the battery, moved the clear cmos jumper to pins 2-3 pressed and held the power button for 10 or more seconds and then pressed and held the reset button for 10 or more seconds and then revered all those efforts and still nothing
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post #1273 of 12349
Wait a sec, you are getting zero fan movement? No LED's glowing?

What exactly is "dead"?

Do you have a PSU tester?

SIDE QUESTION: I need a BIOS update to use the Kuma core, right? (Any Phenom-compatible BIOS?)
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post #1274 of 12349
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slink View Post
Wait a sec, you are getting zero fan movement? No LED's glowing?

What exactly is "dead"?

Do you have a PSU tester?

SIDE QUESTION: I need a BIOS update to use the Kuma core, right? (Any Phenom-compatible BIOS?)
The mobo will power on with the power button, however the fan starts to spin up real fast like normal then slows down with in a second or so and then the fan just sits at a real slow idle. as far as led's glowing what are you refering to. The green power led??? This one is working and the mobo will power on and off w/the power button. but no video and no post beep. The bios is whack for me. I have another board here to test the cpu in to see if it is a cpu issue that caused the mobo to go bad. I just don't see that happening w/a NIB Retail CPU. Besided the system was running fine w/the bios version 2205 until I swopped the cpu's out. Maybe this time around I will try the cpu before the bios flash.

I'll call Asus tomorrow and see if there is any thing that I can do. The biggest problem is I don't have removeable bios. So I may have to get creative and find a bios socket somewhere and Hot Flash a bios and then put in into the bios socket and slip it over the bios on the mobo with the newly Hot Flashed bios in the bios socket on top of the mobo bios and see if I can get the mobo to boot or post like that. then I can get back to a system a reflash the bios. The mobo is not dead but it is useless at this point. In any case I am an eficianodo and a Enthusiast's so this is just one of those learning curve things that we all go through when taking on new project such as this. I mean come on the bios is not supported by Asus just yet and there has got to be a good reason for that after all so with that said good luck in your bios flashing endevors. My flash went flawless. I think where I went wrong is that I did not let the bios go past post and save the new checksum before I switched the clear cmos jumper from pins 1-2 to pins 2-3. That would be my guess any way. All in all it is a learning experiance to say the least.

I flashed and it worked. but i have to find a way to make it stick and use the new cpu.
Edited by N2Gaming - 3/16/09 at 1:34am
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post #1275 of 12349
If you are referring to the M2N BIOS chip, that is a removable PLCC chip afaik. I have a thread on writing to those right now. Here it is.

You can remove the chip by using a hooked paperclip. I did it with thin needle-nose pliers, but that scratches it almost 100% of the time. I haven't tried to take the chip out of my M2N32-SLI mobo, tho.

As you will notice by the following picture, the chip just slips in or out of the socket. There are no "pins" that insert or anything like that, so don't worry about pulling out one corner of the chip first.


Also, (icydk) "hot flashing" means booting with a good BIOS chip (hopefully to a boot disk, and not your main HDD which should be disconnected) and removing the good BIOS chip while the rig is running, inserting the bad BIOS chip to write to it.

Using a dos-based or boot-disk-based BIOS write utility, write ANY desired .bin image to the bad BIOS chip. This includes a .bin BIOS image for another mobo. Once the recording is done, shut off the mobo, replace the fixed chip with your original BIOS chip, so that you can boot your "good" mobo again, and put the once "bad" chip into the computer that had the FUBAR'd flash job, hopefully fixing it.

Remember: You must use the BIOS writing tool that is intended for whatever mobo you are using to record the new BIOS image onto the chip.
Hope this helped!
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post #1276 of 12349
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slink View Post
If you are referring to the M2N BIOS chip, that is a removable PLCC chip afaik. I have a thread on writing to those right now. Here it is.

You can remove the chip by using a hooked paperclip. I did it with thin needle-nose pliers, but that scratches it almost 100% of the time. I haven't tried to take the chip out of my M2N32-SLI mobo, tho.

As you will notice by the following picture, the chip just slips in or out of the socket. There are no "pins" that insert or anything like that, so don't worry about pulling out one corner of the chip first.


Also, (icydk) "hot flashing" means booting with a good BIOS chip (hopefully to a boot disk, and not your main HDD which should be disconnected) and removing the good BIOS chip while the rig is running, inserting the bad BIOS chip to write to it.

Using a dos-based or boot-disk-based BIOS write utility, write ANY desired .bin image to the bad BIOS chip. This includes a .bin BIOS image for another mobo. Once the recording is done, shut off the mobo, replace the fixed chip with your original BIOS chip, so that you can boot your "good" mobo again, and put the once "bad" chip into the computer that had the FUBAR'd flash job, hopefully fixing it.

Remember: You must use the BIOS writing tool that is intended for whatever mobo you are using to record the new BIOS image onto the chip.
Hope this helped!
E for effort. I don't have a removable bios EPROM Flash Chip on my mobo. The newer Rev. mobo's have a soldered bios chip. The manufacture ASUS got cheap and soldered the bios chip directly to the mobo. Well that is one way to boost mobo sales. if the mobo is out of warranty and you fubar your bios then you either pay to have the mobo shipped to asus and pay for the reflashing of your bios or you simply buy a new mobo. I choose option 3 come up w/my own solution by making a clip on bios chip socket that will fit right over the non removavel bios chip that is soldered directly on the mobo. Then I can hot flash a bios chip in a different mobo and removed the recently hotflashed bios and put it into the slip on bios socket. Then place the slip on bios socket over the bios soldered to the mobo and boot up to the floppy, that is if it will even work as planned. The only reason I could see it not working is because of the two bios chips pulling power from the mobo at the same time might not get enough juice from the mobo to post.
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post #1277 of 12349
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slink View Post
@pswfps: I got mine all the way up to around 300 MEGAHERTZ FSB (with minimum CPU settings) without having to modify any voltages, or having to reduce the HT mult at all. Sick, huh? If anything's slowing you down, it's probably not this mobo. The catch is, the memory controller on the board may not be able to go that high with fast CPU freq., but I bet it would work fine if you could get your RAM to fire that quickly (any instability thus being the RAM's fault and not the mobo's). Waiting for my RAM!! I posted the deal I found on the fast RAM I just bought.
Hi Slink - that's amazing!! Unfortunately my system goes flaky at just 230Mhz FSB. In fact I don't trust it at anything over 220MHz. I don't think it's the CPU or RAM though. I have CPU turned down to 10x mult (1.36v) and RAM is 1066Mhz (2.3v) stuff anyway. As far as I know this setup should be ok for 266Mhz FSB but it won't even POST at 230MHz. Any ideas?
post #1278 of 12349
N2,

I remember that board has a function called "CrashFree BIOS 3". I tried to find some info and found this. Maybe it helps:

"Ok, here's a detailed write-up on what I did to fix this, after my originla post (I know this problem persists many P4PE users, as I have read yesterday and today).
1. Remove Graphics Card (mine was an ATi Radeon 9600, whether or not the grahics card works depends case to case)
2. Make BIOS bootdisk. You can make a floppy disk or a burned CD, it doesn't matter which one. Include your bios file, named p4pe.rom and the aflash.exe utility. Also install the BIOS bootdisk from bootdisk.com, it's not hard to find.
3. Borrow PCI video card from other desktop computer. In my case, I took an old Geforce 2 out of our old Dell, put it in this desktop, and put the Radeon in the Dell to test if it worked.
4.Place your BIOS bootdisk that we made in step 2 inside the dekstop before turning on the power.
5. Boot up your system. You should see the recovery BIOS working and saying Bad Bios checksum or something like that. Here's a link to some pictures of what it will say:
http://www.asus.com/999/html/events...
6.When we get to an A:/ prompt, run your aflash.exe. In aflash, select choice 2, write bios without ESCD and something else.
7. Here you may be given a few prompts to confirm that you want to erase the current BIOS and replace it with the one on your disk. Answer yes to all of them, even if they say that the Bios isn't made by Asus (you know it is already).
8. Now you must wait for aflash to write the Bios. When it is done successfully, exit to the A:/ prompt and pull the plug on your computer.
9. Boot your computer back up. Your computer should reach the Bios, which you'll have to reset the time and the like, and then it should boot into Windows or your OS.
10. If all of the earlier steps were successful, put your video card back in your machine, and put the borrowed video card from step 3 back in it's computer.
11. Your computer should now be back to normal, and your wallet should be happy now that it doesn't have to pay for a new Bios chip.
There you go! One of the best CrashFree Bios version 1 explanations on the net right now. Most people seemed to give up because of the video card issue, and bought a new Bios chip or motherboard, that's why there aren't many helpful resources like this on the internet."

Source: http://www.computing.net/answers/har...elp/49823.html

Asus Support: http://support.asus.com/technicaldoc...Language=en-us

Quote:
Originally Posted by N2Gaming View Post
Thanks AllenG, I will try that now. should I push the power button or any thing while the battery is out to clear the capacitors?
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post #1279 of 12349
Quote:
Originally Posted by pswfps View Post
Hi Slink - that's amazing!! Unfortunately my system goes flaky at just 230Mhz FSB. In fact I don't trust it at anything over 220MHz. I don't think it's the CPU or RAM though. I have CPU turned down to 10x mult (1.36v) and RAM is 1066Mhz (2.3v) stuff anyway. As far as I know this setup should be ok for 266Mhz FSB but it won't even POST at 230MHz. Any ideas?
I don't think you are quite getting my drift here. This was a test to see how fast the FSB could go without being restricted by CPU or RAM. So, what you do is drop the CPU multiplier as low as possible (5x?) and decrease RAM speed as low as possible, and loosen RAM timings as much as possible (6-6-6-18-24-2T?) This allows you to keep on cranking up the FSB with no restriction but the mobo itself... unless your CPU or RAM REEEAAALLY suck.

Quote:
Originally Posted by N2Gaming View Post
E for effort. I don't have a removable bios EPROM Flash Chip on my mobo. The newer Rev. mobo's have a soldered bios chip.
Oh... that sucks, man! Well I would say DON'T piggyback the BIOS on top of the original. It should be pretty easy to de-solder the present BIOS, or even to snip it out with fine-point metal snips/pliers. I vote for de-soldering. I would use de-soldering braid or such. What do you think, N2G?
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post #1280 of 12349
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFoister View Post
N2,

I remember that board has a function called "CrashFree BIOS 3". I tried to find some info and found this. Maybe it helps:

"Ok, here's a detailed write-up on what I did to fix this, after my originla post (I know this problem persists many P4PE users, as I have read yesterday and today).
1. Remove Graphics Card (mine was an ATi Radeon 9600, whether or not the grahics card works depends case to case)
2. Make BIOS bootdisk. You can make a floppy disk or a burned CD, it doesn't matter which one. Include your bios file, named p4pe.rom and the aflash.exe utility. Also install the BIOS bootdisk from bootdisk.com, it's not hard to find.
3. Borrow PCI video card from other desktop computer. In my case, I took an old Geforce 2 out of our old Dell, put it in this desktop, and put the Radeon in the Dell to test if it worked.
4.Place your BIOS bootdisk that we made in step 2 inside the dekstop before turning on the power.
5. Boot up your system. You should see the recovery BIOS working and saying Bad Bios checksum or something like that. Here's a link to some pictures of what it will say:
http://www.asus.com/999/html/events...
6.When we get to an A:/ prompt, run your aflash.exe. In aflash, select choice 2, write bios without ESCD and something else.
7. Here you may be given a few prompts to confirm that you want to erase the current BIOS and replace it with the one on your disk. Answer yes to all of them, even if they say that the Bios isn't made by Asus (you know it is already).
8. Now you must wait for aflash to write the Bios. When it is done successfully, exit to the A:/ prompt and pull the plug on your computer.
9. Boot your computer back up. Your computer should reach the Bios, which you'll have to reset the time and the like, and then it should boot into Windows or your OS.
10. If all of the earlier steps were successful, put your video card back in your machine, and put the borrowed video card from step 3 back in it's computer.
11. Your computer should now be back to normal, and your wallet should be happy now that it doesn't have to pay for a new Bios chip.
There you go! One of the best CrashFree Bios version 1 explanations on the net right now. Most people seemed to give up because of the video card issue, and bought a new Bios chip or motherboard, that's why there aren't many helpful resources like this on the internet."

Source: http://www.computing.net/answers/hardware/crashfree-bios-help/49823.html

Asus Support: http://support.asus.com/technicaldocuments/technicaldocuments.aspx?no=191&SLanguage=en-us
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slink View Post
I don't think you are quite getting my drift here. This was a test to see how fast the FSB could go without being restricted by CPU or RAM. So, what you do is drop the CPU multiplier as low as possible (5x?) and decrease RAM speed as low as possible, and loosen RAM timings as much as possible (6-6-6-18-24-2T?) This allows you to keep on cranking up the FSB with no restriction but the mobo itself... unless your CPU or RAM REEEAAALLY suck.


Oh... that sucks, man! Well I would say DON'T piggyback the BIOS on top of the original. It should be pretty easy to de-solder the present BIOS, or even to snip it out with fine-point metal snips/pliers. I vote for de-soldering. I would use de-soldering braid or such. What do you think, N2G?
I think I would rather give TheFoister solution a try first and them RMA the mobo if I can't seem to get it going. Never the less I still like the piggy back idea for further on down the road whe the mobo no longer carries a warranty.

Thanks guys,

N2G
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Logitech G15 Corsair HX1000w Mod'd Antec Nine Hundred Logitech G9x 
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Black N Blue Baby
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Ph II X4 955 BE (C3) @ 3.5GHz MSI NF980-G65 PCS R9 380 4GB 8GB Crucial Ballistix Tracer BL2KIT25664TN1337 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2TB WD Black WD2003FZEX LG 20x DVD Lightscribe Burner Win7 Ult x64  Samsung LN-S4095D 1080P 40" LCD TV 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Corsair HX1000w Mod'd Antec Nine Hundred Logitech G9x 
Mouse Pad
Big Black Pad 
  hide details  
Reply
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