Just the way I like it...
Here are most of the parts required for a 3-bay watefall reservoir. I had a couple of extra laser cut parts to use so this is where I would be after a few minutes at the tablesaw.
Here's the blank for a recessed fill port that glues to the top of the res. It's going to be a perfect circle when I am done...
I drilled and tapped a piece of scrap and attached the square and clamped the assembly to my lil bandsaw.
And there's the circle.
And here it is after I did the same thing on my benchtop disk sander...
And here is one that is straight off the disk sander and one that has been prepped for polish.
This is a little mysterious...but it's a neat little jig I made for drilling these disks (since I do it a lot).
I've unclamped the top part of the fixture.
The disk is friction fit into a recess this keeps it from spinning when I drill and tap it.
I've just tapped it..I could extract it by grabbing the fill cap with a pliers...
But I have made a hole in the fixture instead...
So I can just pop it out...
And off to the buffing wheel.
I use white rouge.
This is something I don't really know how to explain...you can really screw something up on a buffing wheel...but once you get it it's something you can do without thinking about it.
This is one of the more satisfying parts of working with acrylic..bringing it back to optical clarity.
This is actually nicer than laser cut.
Next step is to drill tje top panel. I use a Forstner bit because (when new at least) they leavce a nice edge and willnot fracture the acrylic if you back it up with a piece of wood.
You just peel of the slag will it is still pliable.
Hit it up on the oscillating spindle sander'.
Rub it out to whatever grit you want..and if you are really into it polish it with your Dremel or by hand by clamping the piece and toweling it with Novus.
Glue the port and the top panel together and move on.
Here I am drilling the side panels to tap.
Use use Mother's Gold Carnuba-base Car Wax as a nice easy to remove lube.
Tap with the cordless on low.
I skipped shots of drilling and tapping the rear panel
Any edge that gets fused needs to be sanded. It's important not to alter the 90 degree angle.
I use a square to keep the two parts flush but the rest is all by eye..anything that touches the glue line will cause the solvent to creep which can lead to more polishing afterward...
It is essential to maintain perpendicularity at this stage.
While the three parts cure I assemble the ledges.
Here I have completed the interior assembly and now am ready to glue on the face.
Curing and will soon be ready for filling and leak testing.
I have some vids of the circle cutting and sanding I will post in a bit.