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E5200 - Overclocking Thread - Page 302

Poll Results: Should the thread name be changed to E5x00 Overclocking Thread

Poll expired: Jan 24, 2009  
  • 58% (39)
    Yes, Change it to E5x00 Overclocking thread
  • 41% (28)
    No, Lets keep it how it is
67 Total Votes  
post #3011 of 4653
Thank you jspeedracer, everyone!
guess I will be buying g31m-es2l with some 1066 CL5 ram.
    
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post #3012 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by metal_gunjee View Post
Thanx.
Core Temp reports VID 1.1625v.
CPU-Z reports current Vcore at 1.360v
Sometimes it'll run the same speed well at 1.344v but this chip has it's good and bad days. Odd if ya ask me. Wonder if a cmos clearing or bios flash would do anything for me?
Thats a promising VID

Like W4LNUT5 says, the temperature sounds about right. Im around 62C but that because I bought 4 new fans this week for crazy airflow.
You can check what changed in the new BIOS versions, maybe you see something that'll help your OC, else I wouldnt bother.
Dont know if clearing the CMOS would help you, I only do that when my OC failed and my PC doesnt boot.
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post #3013 of 4653
Computer not booting after a failed OC? That's news to me, but then again, Gigabyte motherboards have Dual-BIOS, so there's like a 10 sec down time at the most if there's a failed OC.

And those temperatures do sound right for the VCore, I get like 71C with 1.39V VCore (BIOS). I need to invest in another case fan.
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post #3014 of 4653
Ok guys, i've run into a slight problem (pretty crappy). After running OCCT on small data set after just 4minutes i get an error on core 0, and this is at stock speeds, with the most bios settings on auto.

Any ideas what the problem could be? CPU-Z shows the Vcore as just 1.064v, perhaps i should have it close to 1.1v? It did seem a bit low as the stock voltage so it could just be my mobo. Whats everyone elses stock voltage in CPU-Z?
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post #3015 of 4653
You should leave everything on AUTO if you are going to test like that, or enter the VID as the VCore. My stock voltage in CPU-Z is 1.204V idle, 1.184V under load, and 1.168V under extreme load (IBT). Though, at 2.5GHz (10 x 250, or 12.5 x 200), I can get the CPU to be stable with 1.1V VCore, which is like 1.064V under load.

Make sure that your VCore is on AUTO, and then test again.
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post #3016 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by oblivion592 View Post
Ok guys, i've run into a slight problem (pretty crappy). After running OCCT on small data set after just 4minutes i get an error on core 0, and this is at stock speeds, with the most bios settings on auto.

Any ideas what the problem could be? CPU-Z shows the Vcore as just 1.064v, perhaps i should have it close to 1.1v? It did seem a bit low as the stock voltage so it could just be my mobo. Whats everyone elses stock voltage in CPU-Z?
Sounds like its being undervolted. Go run CoreTemp, it will display your VID (if you don't already know it). Then manually tell the board to use that voltage.
    
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post #3017 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by spar View Post
Thats a promising VID

Like W4LNUT5 says, the temperature sounds about right. Im around 62C but that because I bought 4 new fans this week for crazy airflow.
You can check what changed in the new BIOS versions, maybe you see something that'll help your OC, else I wouldnt bother.
Dont know if clearing the CMOS would help you, I only do that when my OC failed and my PC doesnt boot.
That's about what I figured, just a longshot question, I'm still at an intermediate level with all this after all. I have the newest bios version and thanks to the Asus CPR I never have to reset CMOS due to no post on some crazy OC attempt.
Even if don't go any further, 1100MHz OC is still amazing to my eyes though I know these chips are capable of more. I have a similar problem as some others with not being able to get too far into 300+ bus territory but I'm going to continue to fight with it! Maybe it's true that the Intel chipsets work better with these cpu's?
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post #3018 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by metal_gunjee View Post
That's about what I figured, just a longshot question, I'm still at an intermediate level with all this after all. I have the newest bios version and thanks to the Asus CPR I never have to reset CMOS due to no post on some crazy OC attempt.
Even if don't go any further, 1100MHz OC is still amazing to my eyes though I know these chips are capable of more. I have a similar problem as some others with not being able to get too far into 300+ bus territory but I'm going to continue to fight with it! Maybe it's true that the Intel chipsets work better with these cpu's?
No doubt, 3.6Ghz is a very nice overclock. Dont know about the +300 FSB wall and why some people cant seem to get past that. A lot of factors play a long, undervolting/overvolting, crappy PSU's, bad mobo's, bad overclocker in general (talking about the person now), bad RAM to overclock, wrong settings in the BIOS turned on/off etc.
I think some people are quick to jump to conclusions when they say that the E5200 has a FSB wall. Im not convinced. When do you say a chip has a wall? When 5 out of 10 people cant get past it? Or more like 6 out of 10?
Plus a lot of people arent willing, or dont know, or are scared, to pump in the amounts of volts to get past it, my jump from 3.5Ghz to 3.6Ghz was 0.15V in Vcore, thats going from a reasonable 1.325V to 1.475V, and that was only Vcore, and I still wasnt stable.

Have no idea about how your chipset should preform btw, Im strictly Intel
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post #3019 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by kirayamato26 View Post
Computer not booting after a failed OC? That's news to me
I actually was talking about my old motherboard, MSI 915G Grantsdale something. The amount of times I needed to reset the CMOS is ridiculous, so bad even, I still talk about it as if it was in the present.
Even today, everytime when my P5Q fails to boot when I overclock (it does eventually boot though after 10 secs), I pray to god I dont have to whip out the tweezers to try and pull that way too little thing out.
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post #3020 of 4653
Tweezers? I'll assume you are talking about the battery. On my board, there's a jumper, just short that for 5 seconds and the CMOS is reset.

Oh and I just did the artifact testing on my GPU, this is what I got at stock speeds. I don't know why that little thing's there, I mean, the card is running at 42C idle, and like 51C under load. The brand is Galaxy KFA2, maybe I should consider an upgrade some time soon? I mean, it is artifacting at stock.
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