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The Official Cooler Master HAF X/932/922/912(+) Club - Page 1063

post #10621 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by FannBlade;12105972 
hmm. other than just plugging it in I'm not sure. Maybe use an old setup if you have one.

Eh this seems like a nasty risk, if all is good nothing will happen, if something is wrong then my other motherboard will get a fried controller, then again I already lost a usb controller. There has to be a better way
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post #10622 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgallie;12103632 
I can add more pics of needed
Of course, more pics with the inside too wink.gif
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post #10623 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentRampage34;12106846 
Just wanted to point out that the exposure compensation setting isn't boosting so much as it is a manual override of the camera's interpretation of the image. It's a method to tell the camera to expose the final image as either darker or lighter than it would normally.
Iso is a measure of the film's (or sensor in a digital camera) sensitivity to light. A higher iso rating allows you to get a properly exposed image with less light and/or a shorter shutter speed. One disadvantage of a higher iso setting is noise. Iso has absolutely nothing to do with resolution; the resolution photos taken on the same camera with iso 100 and iso 800 will be the same, only the "noise" will be different. You're confusing motion blur with iso noise.





I disagree. I think the biggest problems with his already decent photos are the spotlight he's using and the cropping of the photos. Where the rig is is already well lit and the spotlight is throwing harsh, warm light that's rather distracting. I would keep the long shutter speed (1/60 all the way to 1/10 since you have a tripod) and remove the spotlight entirely. This way you can keep the iso low to reduce noise and have an evenly lit photo.
The other issue is the framing or cropping. When you take the photo, try to have in mind what the focus should be. If you're going to get the whole case in a single shot, don't crop off random sides. If you're wanting to show off the motherboard area, don't include too much of the HDD mounts. Also, if the background is entirely white, random cords and the wood the case is resting on are going to stand out a lot.

I don't mean to be hyper critical, but I do want this case to get the photographic attention it deserves, so hopefully you don't take this advice as me being a rude jerk.

And just for kicks, try looking into this video for a quick couple of ideas for lighting.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUJKqzlRtYo&

Any input I get is appreciated teaching.gif. I will check out the vid and give your thoughts a try. The rinky dink background ,stand, cords etc. I was aware of I just set it up to practice taking pics I will use something a little more professional looking when taking the "real" pics and try some more indirect lighting.

Thank for you help!
    
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post #10624 of 23553
whats this talk about the fire wire killing the board? when/how can this happen?

EDIT: found the thread abou it and looks like im gona check if anything is shorting (broken isolation and so on) on the front panel to make sure everything is ok...
Edited by kromar - 1/23/11 at 5:59am
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post #10625 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentRampage34;12106846 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUJKqzlRtYo&

Good video. Amazing how he was able to manipulate the lighting with cardboard.
    
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post #10626 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by silentrampage34;12106846 
Just wanted to point out that the exposure compensation setting isn't boosting so much as it is a manual override of the camera's interpretation of the image. It's a method to tell the camera to expose the final image as either darker or lighter than it would normally.
Lets say i want to keep my shutter speed at 1/50, and my iso at 100, but i want to tighten my aperature from 4.0 to say, 8 to increase my depth of field. i can adjust my exposure compensation to compensate for the reduction in light allowed in to get the correct exposure. in this way it's boosting my cameras ability to get the shot i want. you're correct on the definition of what exposure compensation is, i didn't describe it well enough.
Quote:
Originally Posted by silentrampage34;12106846 
iso is a measure of the film's (or sensor in a digital camera) sensitivity to light. A higher iso rating allows you to get a properly exposed image with less light and/or a shorter shutter speed. One disadvantage of a higher iso setting is noise. Iso has absolutely nothing to do with resolution; the resolution photos taken on the same camera with iso 100 and iso 800 will be the same, only the "noise" will be different. You're confusing motion blur with iso noise.

yes iso is the measure of how sensitive the light sensor is. as you increase the iso, you can take pictures in dark areas that wouldn't be exposed correctly otherwise. however, the higher the iso, the more grainy the photo will appear, and the more noise you will have in darker areas. the actual resolution won't change, ie taking a photograph at 100 vs 1000 will still be the same resolution of say 2256x1504, but the image itself will appear to be a lower resolution. this is why it's always best to use the lowest iso possible.


Quote:
Originally Posted by silentrampage34;12106846 
i disagree. I think the biggest problems with his already decent photos are the spotlight he's using and the cropping of the photos. Where the rig is is already well lit and the spotlight is throwing harsh, warm light that's rather distracting. I would keep the long shutter speed (1/60 all the way to 1/10 since you have a tripod) and remove the spotlight entirely. This way you can keep the iso low to reduce noise and have an evenly lit photo.

i agree with you on cropping, however i prefer the dramatic light he's using. i prefer dramatic photos with different heat light sources and creative shadowing as opposed to even well lit photos for say, a store catalog. that being said i would back up the lights a hair and/or change your exposure settings to darken it up a hair. remember the spots should accentuate what you want us the viewer to focus on, a hot light on the back of the i/o distracts us from the gpu waterblock.


Quote:
Originally Posted by silentrampage34;12106846 
The other issue is the framing or cropping. When you take the photo, try to have in mind what the focus should be. If you're going to get the whole case in a single shot, don't crop off random sides. If you're wanting to show off the motherboard area, don't include too much of the hdd mounts. Also, if the background is entirely white, random cords and the wood the case is resting on are going to stand out a lot.

yup, i agree.
Quote:
Originally Posted by silentrampage34;12106846 
i don't mean to be hyper critical, but i do want this case to get the photographic attention it deserves, so hopefully you don't take this advice as me being a rude jerk.
not at all. the more people contributing to the pot the tastier the stew. you did have some good points, even if i did disagree with some of them tongue.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by silentrampage34;12106846 
And just for kicks, try looking into this video for a quick couple of ideas for lighting.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mujkqzlrtyo&

i like the video, i'm going to mess w/ different heat backlighting now smile.gif

also, sorry for the long response time, went to a pig roast last night and had to wait for the fog to roll out of my brain cheers.gif
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post #10627 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zhany;12106897 
Eh this seems like a nasty risk, if all is good nothing will happen, if something is wrong then my other motherboard will get a fried controller, then again I already lost a usb controller. There has to be a better way

i found it zhany. the issue is bad insulation on the red LED power line. apparently when they were manufacturing and/or assembling the front panel the sharp pins from the mobo pierce the wire and cause a short when you turn on the computer @ the firewire port. easy fix is to put some tape on that wire.


photo

source
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post #10628 of 23553
CM just sent me a new top panel with the new front header. They basically put a piece of sticky plastic between the panel header and the wires. It's actually pretty easy to fix yourself, just put a sticker or something so that it blocks the wires from touching the pcb board. If you take it apart you'll know what I mean, hard to explain in words.
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post #10629 of 23553
I am looking for a mesh panel from CM Storm Sniper. Where can I get one? I need one for my HAF 922.
post #10630 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iching;12115770 
I am looking for a mesh panel from CM Storm Sniper. Where can I get one? I need one for my HAF 922.

http://cmstore.coolermaster-usa.com/product_info.php?cPath=36_52&products_id=341
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