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The Official Cooler Master HAF X/932/922/912(+) Club - Page 1229

post #12281 of 23525
I do regularly clean out my case (once every 1-2 weeks) so don't worry
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post #12282 of 23525
Curious... has anyone modded usb 3.0 ports to the front I/O panel on any of the cases (obviously excluding the haf x)?
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post #12283 of 23525
add me for 932
    
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post #12284 of 23525
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thogar View Post
Curious... has anyone modded usb 3.0 ports to the front I/O panel on any of the cases (obviously excluding the haf x)?
You can using a $35 Asus controller card if you have one or using one of your rear 3.0 ports if you have one of those like I do. CM has a 3.0 Bay Device but they're still down at the moment.

Forgot to post these earlier. After cleaning. Note the tight azz weave of the screens.

~Ceadder



Edited by Ceadderman - 3/31/11 at 6:27pm
 
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post #12285 of 23525
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
You can using a $35 Asus controller card if you have one or using one of your rear 3.0 ports if you have one of those like I do. CM has a 3.0 Bay Device but they're still down at the moment.
The CM Store has been back up since sometime on Monday the 28th and is online right now.
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post #12286 of 23525
I mean the top I/O port, not the drive bays.
like the haf 932 for example, has 4 usb 2.0 ports on the top.
I mean taking apart a usb 3.0 bay (to get the usb 3.0 ports) and fitting them in the top I/O port (by replacing 2 of the 2.0 ports).
Soldering them into place or what not, then connecting the ports to the internal usb 3.0 connector on the mobo itself (like a p67 board for example).
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post #12287 of 23525
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thogar View Post
I mean the top I/O port, not the drive bays.
like the haf 932 for example, has 4 usb 2.0 ports on the top.
I mean taking apart a usb 3.0 bay (to get the usb 3.0 ports) and fitting them in the top I/O port (by replacing 2 of the 2.0 ports).
Soldering them into place or what not, then connecting the ports to the internal usb 3.0 connector on the mobo itself (like a p67 board for example).
I'm not sure that you can without the appropriate controller chip added to the board. Pretty sure that 2.0 standard would remain. About the only way I could see this up front is if one of the newer HAF 932 cabbys include 3.0 standard up top. But then that would just be a simple swap of the whole I/O pwr/rst panel I imagine. If you had a 2nd working I/O like I do(would have to dig out the cables) you might give it a shot. But there is nothing exact from one PCB to the next. My USB connectors at the PCB were 4 pin on one and 4 pin in 6 pin housing on the other. So I couldn't even sleeve them without removing them from the I/O panel that I modified the LEDs' on.

~Ceadder
 
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post #12288 of 23525
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
I'm not sure that you can without the appropriate controller chip added to the board. Pretty sure that 2.0 standard would remain. About the only way I could see this up front is if one of the newer HAF 932 cabbys include 3.0 standard up top. But then that would just be a simple swap of the whole I/O pwr/rst panel I imagine. If you had a 2nd working I/O like I do(would have to dig out the cables) you might give it a shot. But there is nothing exact from one PCB to the next. My USB connectors at the PCB were 4 pin on one and 4 pin in 6 pin housing on the other. So I couldn't even sleeve them without removing them from the I/O panel that I modified the LEDs' on.

~Ceadder
the p8p67 pro i just bought has an internal usb 3.0 connector for 2 3.0 ports.
also i have a spare usb 3.0 bay to modify
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post #12289 of 23525
It would probably be easier to just mount it in a drive bay cover as I don't think the size would match with what CM uses in their front I/O panels.
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post #12290 of 23525
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
PC is Powder Coat by the way. The standard 932 is PC'ed inside and out. The ONLY reason that a cabinet would need priming is if you're going to be spraying on bare metal. Since a painted surface is a primed surface the PC is what? A primer.

~Ceadder
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonB94GT View Post
Primer helps adhesion and if you sand through the PC. Yea I know what PC is computers are not my main hobby. I always say better safe than sorry. Whatever.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaSmurf View Post
Instead of sand paper or emery cloth use the right tool for the job. It's called a scuff pad and is easier to work with and will do a better job of prepping the surface.

And yes, you absolutely NEED to use primer. The paint will stick better and will be more resistant to scratches. If you are going to do the job take a few extra minutes and do it right or don't bother. Personally I recommend 2 coats of Self Etching Primer followed by at least 3 coats of color. You then need to let the case sit unused for a couple of weeks for the paint to fully cure and harden or it will scratch and/or peel when you start installing your hardware. DO NOT RUSH THIS. You will regret it later. You'll have some people post that they painted their case without prepping the surface, without using primer, and installed their hardware the next day and theirs didn't scratch, but take the word of someone who has been doing this stuff longer than the majority of OCN members have even been alive, DO NOT LISTEN TO THEM. Anything worth doing is worth doing right. If you don't you'll end up with a case with scratches that looks like crap after awhile and you'll just end up taking it all apart and doing it over, only this time it will 10 times as much work as you'll need to completely strip all of the paint you applied the first time to get the paint to adhere properly. That is a LOT of wasted time and effort. Either do it right or don't waste your time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahbrohn View Post
@ PapaSmurf - Any particular self-etching primer that you would recommend?
Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaSmurf View Post
Any NAME brand will work. I normally use Martin Seniour from NAPA, but that is because I worked at NAPA for several years and had some training on their products, plus I got the employee discount. But Krylon and Rust-O-Leum should work just as well. Just stay away from the cheap, house brands. A top quality primer followed by lower quality top coat would be better than a cheap primer and top of the line color coat. It's the Primer (along with the prep) that makes it all work
I was going to stay out of this, but!
I have had a paint gun in my hand for a lot of years. This subject is like the AMD-Intel or Ford-Chevy wars. What's right and whats wrong?
Can you grab a case wipe it down, spray it and it look good? YES
Will it last? Probably for the typical life of the case. (2 yrs)

Now if you want to do it right, that could be a matter of interpretation.
Everything is preparation. #1 it has to be clean before you even start sanding. "if its clean it will stick"

I agree with Papa on the scuff pad it's all I use to prep an interior of the case. That means hitting every spot.
Personnel I don't use etching primers as there designed for bare metal then meant to be primed again.
My favorite product that I use on ALL project (cases or cars) is a non-sanding primer sealer. It will provide excellent inter-coat adhesion for the top coat and doesn't need to be sanded, like a primer surfacer.
Application is the second most important part, like Papa said use thin even coats especially with the sealer and make sure each coat has had time to flash off (dry to touch) if you stack coats wet on wet it will have a tough time drying. But if you spray it to dry or ambient temps are to high it won't have time to adhere to the previous coat. With auto paint you can control this with different reducers or retarders. You don't have that option with spray paint. I temps are much above 75F you will have a tough time getting an even finish as most are designed try dry very fast.
Do I think you need to wait 2 weeks for it to dry? No if application is right and temps are good couple days should be fine. Especially on flat or semi-gloss colors.
If it's a gloss finish use your finger nail and see if it leaves a mark. Today's rattle cans provide an easy to spray finish but are know where near as durable as they were 10 yrs ago.
That is why I don't recommend the need to fully disassemble the case it is way to easy to scratch or peel it sliding parts back together.

I could go on and on but that's my two pennies worth.


Here is a car I finished last year. It's a 50 Chevy with 2010 Chrysler 300 white with 4 coats of Ice sparkle White pearl and 5 coats of Urethane clear coat. Completely block sanded flat with 1200 grit wet and buffed. Took 2 full days just to buff...I had the car 2 yrs, 6 months of that was welding in new metal. Results owner has 2 first place finishes so far.
Tooten my own horn!
    
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