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The Official Cooler Master HAF X/932/922/912(+) Club - Page 305

post #3041 of 23536
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andreas Harder View Post
really nice !
Thanks and back at you.
    
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post #3042 of 23536
I'm glad that Sniper panel worked out - I knew that Sniper looked to be the same size for the internals
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post #3043 of 23536
Quote:
Originally Posted by HAFenvy View Post
I'm glad that Sniper panel worked out - I knew that Sniper looked to be the same size for the internals
Yeah it might be pure timing, but after you started questioning that they look the same, then all of a sudden the side window panel for the sniper is selling for our case as well.

It's a great option to be able to have especially for the price.
    
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post #3044 of 23536
And if you are really picky about case looks and having both panels match - buy the Storm Sniper Right Side Panel as well for $15. So the nice Sniper Left Window Panel for $10 and the right panel for $15 --- for $25 plus shipping, you have an extra set of side panels for your 922 - Nice.

EDIT: Doesn't say the right panel fits the 922 but we already know the left does (with a quick hole fix for the screws)... so I'm sure the right will as well.

Second Edit: I can't confirm if this right side panel comes with a black interior though like the window did.
Edited by HAFenvy - 10/21/09 at 12:43am
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post #3045 of 23536
I finally got my HAF 932 put together. I stumbled across this thread when searching on google for cases I might want for a new build. I got a bunch of ideas from this thread before I even decided to get a HAF. So I figured I'd post my new build here. I haven't done much to it. Just replaced the fans with 120mm's and painted the case and fans. Oh, and I covered up the silver on the case feet with black. I can't think of anything else to do to it actually, its an excellent case.

Before:



Some fans painted:





After:




I've got a second GTX 275 - well sort of. One worked, one was DOA, sent it back to NewEgg for a replacement, and guess what? They decided to discountinue them. Grrr. So now I'm waiting for my refund so I can get it from Amazon or something.

Oh, also, I have three 120's for the top, in one of the pictures there were two instead of three - I accidentally ripped a ground off of one. Soldered it back on and its working again.
Edited by Shbek - 10/21/09 at 8:31pm
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post #3046 of 23536
Awesome job on your case man! The red accents are just enough. Nice work.
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post #3047 of 23536
Thanks! I has trying not to do more - Krylon's "Banner Red" is like the perfect red. I can see why people get carried away with it.
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post #3048 of 23536
Hi all.

I'm currently having fun with sleeving, specifically the PCI-E cables. I will be using a Corsair HX750 which comes with a ferrite choke at the graphics card end. I have removed these for cabling but Corsair do recommend that for optimal graphics that they be included.

Does anyone else have any experience with running their graphics cards (GC) after removing the chokes?

If i do put them back on, which would look better at the GC end?

Straight



Or interlaced?



(Yes i do realize that the plug pictured is actually the PSU end.)

Lastly, i want to change the spacing on the SATA power cable plugs so that it sit flush. Is the spacing between adjacent HD power sockets in the rack 40mm?? as this is the measurement i get from measuring the drive slots.

Cheers for any and all advice/help/suggestions.
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post #3049 of 23536
I like the straight one better, looks neater.

I think the power sockets are about 4cm apart. I just sleeved my sata power cables and did them 5cm apart. This was because I put my HDDs in the 5.25" drive bay aswell and the power connection for them is the slightest bit higher then a normal dvd drive. I also think as a rule of thumb its better to give it an extra cm just so its never to short. If the drives are 4cm apart and you sleeve the connections on the cable 5cm apart, that just means the cables will have a slight bow in them between drives which doesn't take away from the clean look. If your unsure, just do one at a time and then plug them in to see if they fit properly.

Anyway, thats just one of my insurance policies I guess.

EDIT - Also make sure the end sata plug has a little more length cause it looses some when you bend it sharply to plug it in. Hope that makes sense.
Edited by FalloutBoy - 10/22/09 at 4:26am
post #3050 of 23536
Quote:
Originally Posted by MIH View Post
Hi all.

I'm currently having fun with sleeving, specifically the PCI-E cables. I will be using a Corsair HX750 which comes with a ferrite choke at the graphics card end. I have removed these for cabling but Corsair do recommend that for optimal graphics that they be included.

Does anyone else have any experience with running their graphics cards (GC) after removing the chokes?

If i do put them back on, which would look better at the GC end?

Straight


Or interlaced?


(Yes i do realize that the plug pictured is actually the PSU end.)

Lastly, i want to change the spacing on the SATA power cable plugs so that it sit flush. Is the spacing between adjacent HD power sockets in the rack 40mm?? as this is the measurement i get from measuring the drive slots.

Cheers for any and all advice/help/suggestions.
Yeah, definitely run them straight. Although that weaved look might actully look pretty cool if you did it just right to individually sleeved 24pin atx wires. Here's another picture for more ideas. Also, check out FalloutBoy's build log. His sleeving is top notch!


Here's a tip: drill out each hole of those 6-pin connectors with the right size bit and you'll be able to slide the heat shrink tube into the hole. Hey Fallout-> I think that's part of why I got so tired of sleeving; I did that to all my PCI-E and the 24-PIN connectors. Then formed them to the bend I wanted and taped the sleeving to the wires with some hockey tape making sure that the sleeving was loose or bunched up just slightly before shrinking that 1/2 inch sleeve to all the singles. That way when you bend the wires around, that extra bunched up length of sleeving will keep it from pulling out of the shrink tube. I guess my whole plan was to eliminate at much heat shrink material that would be seen as possible.
Edited by Paraleyes - 10/22/09 at 5:01am
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