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The Official Cooler Master HAF X/932/922/912(+) Club - Page 370

post #3691 of 23567
Hello guys, I'm new here and about to get a HAF 932 as a nice Xmas present for myself, so I'm thinking on doing the paint job, and I'm wondering, would it be possible or maybe even better to use an electric hand sander; like this:

I have a similar one at home and I was thinking of just attaching 180 grit sandpaper on it and sanding the case with that, I think it would be even better than hand sanding as it would turn out even, no? What do you think?
Thanks

P.S. I'm thinking of a green lighting set-up, and I can't make up my mind between these two fans:
http://www.logisyscomputer.com/views...GN&DID=COOLDEV
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Antec-TriCoo...item2c52096965

The Antec seems to have better Airflow and less noise but I've heard otherwise, any ideas?
Edited by WrxSTI - 12/14/09 at 3:00am
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post #3692 of 23567
Quote:
Originally Posted by WrxSTI View Post
Hello guys, I'm new here and about to get a HAF 932 as a nice Xmas present for myself, so I'm thinking on doing the paint job, and I'm wondering, would it be possible or maybe even better to use an electric hand sander; like this:

I have a similar one at home and I was thinking of just attaching 180 grit sandpaper on it and sanding the case with that, I think it would be even better than hand sanding as it would turn out even, no? What do you think?
Thanks
you really dont need to sand that much. i scuffed the metal pieces with 400 grit and the plastic with 800 grit(the 400 would make gouges in the plastic )
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post #3693 of 23567
OK then a couple of questions if you don't mind:

1. Should I sand every nook and cranny? How do you sand in corners and tight spots, some tool or just reach as good as you can? Hard drive cages in particular.
2. What grit should I use?
3. Should I use self-etching primer?
4. How many layers of primer, and should I sand inbetween layers?
5. How many layers of paint?
6. If I want it to be scratch-resistant, do I need to apply clear-coat?
7. If I apply clear-coat, will it be glossy, because I want it to be matte (flat) black?

That's all I can think of for now, I'm sure I'll run into more issues when I start. I know I'm making a big deal out of this it's just that, I've never painted something this delicate apart from a motorcycle exhaust where I only did one layer of some cheapo paint and that came off with the first wash, so I'd really hate to mess up my brand new case, I'm sure you'll understand.

Thanks again for the help
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post #3694 of 23567
I painted mine with Krylon Flat Black, 2 coats primer, 2 coats paint, and just a little light sanding in general areas. I didn't take it apart or anything, and I certainly didn't get every inch. Self Etching primer would eliminate the need I believe for sanding. Clear coat does add a slight shine, which is why I tested it on the 3.5" bay adapter before the actual case. You can try it for yourself to see if you like it. Have fun with the painting!
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post #3695 of 23567
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nhb93 View Post
I painted mine with Krylon Flat Black, 2 coats primer, 2 coats paint, and just a little light sanding in general areas. I didn't take it apart or anything, and I certainly didn't get every inch. Self Etching primer would eliminate the need I believe for sanding. Clear coat does add a slight shine, which is why I tested it on the 3.5" bay adapter before the actual case. You can try it for yourself to see if you like it. Have fun with the painting!
i agree with the bold. i didnt sand on the bare metal. i just used metal primer. use a fine grit sandpaper lets say...600 or more? on the plastic to make sure the paint sticks. other than that i think primers can be over rated
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post #3696 of 23567
I see...Aren't all the plastic parts already black? If I want to keep them black there aren't any plastic parts I should touch then I assume. What is there, expansion holders, hdd slots, 5.25" buttons, it's all already black.

I still think I'll dismantle it to be able to paint everything precisely, I have an attic where it's pretty warm so I'll just hang everything on a washing line and give it a few hours between each coat(or whatever it says on the tin)...Probably going to go with the Dupli-Color line, so I'll need what, 2 cans of primer, 2 - maybe 3 cans of paint? Or more?

I'll skip the clear coat then. I assume the more layers of paint the more resistant the paint is to scratches etc.? I'd like it to last, preferably as long as the case
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post #3697 of 23567
It will be hard but the longer you leave it after you've painted it (without putting it back together) the harder the paint will dry and be to scratch. I left mine for just over a day or 2 in the sun and while its not bad, I'm gonna leave future paint jobs for around a week.
post #3698 of 23567
Quote:
Originally Posted by WrxSTI View Post
OK then a couple of questions if you don't mind:

1. Should I sand every nook and cranny? How do you sand in corners and tight spots, some tool or just reach as good as you can? Hard drive cages in particular.
2. What grit should I use?
3. Should I use self-etching primer?
4. How many layers of primer, and should I sand inbetween layers?
5. How many layers of paint?
6. If I want it to be scratch-resistant, do I need to apply clear-coat?
7. If I apply clear-coat, will it be glossy, because I want it to be matte (flat) black?

That's all I can think of for now, I'm sure I'll run into more issues when I start. I know I'm making a big deal out of this it's just that, I've never painted something this delicate apart from a motorcycle exhaust where I only did one layer of some cheapo paint and that came off with the first wash, so I'd really hate to mess up my brand new case, I'm sure you'll understand.

Thanks again for the help
Don't use sandpaper man. That's just going to take off the factory primer and force you to use primer. Self etching primer is for when you are shaping bondo over metal. It is not necessary and needs to be sanded in fact before painting. Just use a scotch brite pad or painter's prep pad. That is like a rough sponge and it will allow you to get into all the corners. The whole idea there is to get rid of all the contaminants before painting. It is already primed and smooth from the factory. A single pad is all you need.

Yes, clear coat will shine. Make sure you test the difference between a satin finish and a flat black finish. A satin finish will have a much more durable finish than flat. There are some special clear coats that do not shine, but they are specialty and cost a lot at auto paint shops. Engine enamel can also be a good choice for a durable paint and it's really not that much more expensive.

Apply as many coats as you want. Small coats and many about 20 minutes to and hour apart is best.

Also check out my post a few posts back for more information.
post #3699 of 23567
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VOTE BELOW!!!


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post #3700 of 23567
Quote:
Originally Posted by WrxSTI View Post
I see...Aren't all the plastic parts already black? If I want to keep them black there aren't any plastic parts I should touch then I assume. What is there, expansion holders, hdd slots, 5.25" buttons, it's all already black.

I still think I'll dismantle it to be able to paint everything precisely, I have an attic where it's pretty warm so I'll just hang everything on a washing line and give it a few hours between each coat(or whatever it says on the tin)...Probably going to go with the Dupli-Color line, so I'll need what, 2 cans of primer, 2 - maybe 3 cans of paint? Or more?

I'll skip the clear coat then. I assume the more layers of paint the more resistant the paint is to scratches etc.? I'd like it to last, preferably as long as the case
many people paint the plastic accent colors. if you look at my haf i painted the whole thing. i paint by doing many light coats about 15 minutes apart. so lets say..
primer-15minutes-primer-15minutes-primer
then ill go ATLEAST 24 hours before doing the normal paint. this is if i even use a primer but it really depends if that piece is going to get worn or not. clear coat drips easily and requires a long time for your normal paint to be dried until it can be applied. the longer you wait the less chance there is of cracking.

this case didnt take that much paint for me. to paint the whole thing except the side panels i used 1 can plastic primer. 1 can metal primer. 2 cans base color. 2 cans accent color(i really wanted my accent color to "pop")
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Mitx Love
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