So I've got this 922 sitting here. The plan is to wait until Intel's Gulftown is out
so I've got some time to kill. I *really* want to paint my case interior matte black. I don't mind that such a notion is completely unoriginal
I've been looking though this thread as well as a few other on the procedure of painting but I still have some questions. I have a history of botching any first attempt at mods (lapping
My primary holdback right now is figuring out the rivets. I'm afraid to break down my case before I know I can get it back together. I want to take out the rivets because I don't trust myself to be satisfied with the job I might be able to do keeping it togehter. There look to me to be 2 different rivet sizes, as indicated here
Originally Posted by FalloutBoy
All the rivets in the case are 1/8" (3.2mm) so definatelly get that. Also try to get the shortest rivets you can. I think that is the grip measurment. Any length will work but the shorter ones are better for holding thin sheet metal pieces together like a computer case. Hope that makes sense, if not just get 1/8" size rivets and you'll be fine.
I took another look and now I believe countersunk rivets just have smaller heads and all of the case's rivet holes are 1/8". I've been hoping to find black countersunk rivets but haven't had any luck. I haven't found any
countersunk rivets at local hardware stores, only online.
I'm going to number my questions just to make it easier.1.
Of those that de-riveted their case and wound up with black rivets, did you buy them that way or paint them afterward? I've had a stigma about painting the rivets after installing them in a painted case.2.
Can anybody recommend a good place to look for the right rivets?3.
I've been to Ace Hardware, Lowes, and Home Depot. Are there particular hobby shops (aside from aviation) that I should be looking for?
Originally Posted by Paraleyes
OKAY EVERYONE, IT IS NOT BARE METAL FROM THE FACTORY. AND IT DOES NOT NEED TO BE PRIMED!
Take some sand paper to it and you will see the metal. I know it looks like it is, but it is not. If that was bare aluminum, your hands would turn black from handling it and you would leave fingerprints all over the place. Trust me. I used to work with different metals every day.
Thanks for re-emphasizing this Paraleyes, I was going to double check because of your earlier mention of "default" primer, but then I read this.
Just to make sure I'm understanding correctly, here is my paint materials plan: no self-etching or standard primer whatsoever; a prep pad to clean the surfaces of oil and dust before painting; enough cans of satin black to do 3 coats on all parts; enough non-glossy-ish clear coat to do 2 coats; some fine-grit sandpaper; and sandpaper gripping pad (whatever it's called) for between coats.5.
Not really a question, but I'd appreciate if anyone would correct anything I have wrong.
Thanks all! I've gotten so much info from this thread! It rocks
Thanks to both LilMan and Mokolodi1, since I'm not sure where he found LilMan's original post, for this link. I've been interested in tying 3 CM Megaflows to the same LED switch.
The approach linked above makes sense; never thought of it like that
My original plan seems to be working out though: desolder the diode D2 and use the 2 terminals as the switching point. Quite similar to how the stock case fan that supports LED on/off works.
Here is a preliminary pic. My electronics knowledge is corroded so there may be something I'm missing that will damage the components in the long run, but my tests had it working.
In the picture the two wires aren't connected to anything. They're just sitting, separated by air. Apply power with the wires not touching and the fan spins with no red LEDs. Touch the two wires with the power on and the fan continues to spin and the red LEDs come on.
This might be old news
I haven't done as much digging as I perhaps out to have.