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The Official Cooler Master HAF X/932/922/912(+) Club - Page 789

post #7881 of 23527
Rivets cannot be used once drilled out. You will need new rivets. I believe it takes 58 rivets to reassemble the case.
HAFaestus
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HAFaestus
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post #7882 of 23527
Sounds like your plugs aren't tight to the gang controller on your I/O. You should probably get under there and make certain they are tight.

~Ceadder

Quote:
Originally Posted by YangerD View Post
Hey guys, I'm having a bit of a problem. The front panel has been giving me some grounding issues. Whenever I plug in a USB drive or headphone jack into the panel, it would short out my motherboard and my system would reboot itself. Does anyone know what problem this may be? No I currently only have the power/reset switch and power/hdd activity cables plugged into the motherboard. My second question is can the rest of the cables be taken off of the front panel so I have less cables going on in the case? I don't use the front panel at all anyways. So my question is, is there a way to detach all USB, front panel audio, firewire and esata cables from the I/O panel? I don't want to take apart my case only to figure out that these cables are hard wired onto the panel and can't be taken out. Thanks in advance for the help guys. Also has anyone else had a similar problem? I know it has to do with something in the front panel as my rig has been running fine since I've taken most of those front panel connections off of my motherboard (about 4 months)
 
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AMD Phenom II X6 1100T Crosshair IV Formula Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 
RAMRAMRAMHard Drive
Corsair Dominator G. Skill Ripjaws X G. Skill x2 HITACHI 1TB Deskstars 1TB RAID0 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
ASUS DRW-24B1ST  Swiftech 6950/6870 GPU Heatsink Swiftech 6950/6870 GPU Heatsink Monsoon 1/2"x5/8" PETG White Hardline tubing. 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Monsoon Economy Hardline fittings EK Dual DDC V2 top Swiftech Pump DDC-1T (2) Liquid Fusion V Double helix Reservoir 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Yate Loon 120x20 (D12SM-12C) Medium Speed Silen... EK Supreme HF Classified EK Thermosphere GPU Block EK Thermosphere GPU Block 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Win7 64 bit Ultimate OEM Asus VH222H Black HDMI Widescreen Logitech the OCZ went buhbye adios. Don't know ... Corsair CMPSU HX 850w Modular 
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HAF 932 Logitech g9x COOLER MASTER Weapon of Choice: M4 Duramesh Pad Logitech X-240 2.1 speakers 
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Sunbeam Rheosmart 3 Creative X-Fi 
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post #7883 of 23527
Quote:
Originally Posted by YangerD View Post
Hey guys, I'm having a bit of a problem. The front panel has been giving me some grounding issues. Whenever I plug in a USB drive or headphone jack into the panel, it would short out my motherboard and my system would reboot itself. Does anyone know what problem this may be? No I currently only have the power/reset switch and power/hdd activity cables plugged into the motherboard. My second question is can the rest of the cables be taken off of the front panel so I have less cables going on in the case? I don't use the front panel at all anyways. So my question is, is there a way to detach all USB, front panel audio, firewire and esata cables from the I/O panel? I don't want to take apart my case only to figure out that these cables are hard wired onto the panel and can't be taken out. Thanks in advance for the help guys. Also has anyone else had a similar problem? I know it has to do with something in the front panel as my rig has been running fine since I've taken most of those front panel connections off of my motherboard (about 4 months)
I broke all my front panel USB ports so am in the process of replacing them. Seems my soldering iron isn't hot enough to melt the solder though

Anyway... The cables just plug into the front panel and are held in place by some hot glue. Just cut through the hot glue with a shrap knife and then take out the connector. I've removed firewire and esata as I will never use them. Makes such a diffeerence to cable management. You can always just glue them bak in as and when you need them.
Orange and White
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Orange Ice Mk. 2
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Orange and White
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Orange Ice Mk. 2
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Phenom II 965 BE 3.4Ghz Gigabyte 990FXA UD7 KFA2 GTX 970 EXOC Infinity 8 Gb DDRIII 1333 
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256GB Crucial M4 Samsung Spinpoint F1 1TB Phanteks TC14PE-OR Windows 7 Ultimate 64 Bit 
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post #7884 of 23527
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamiem1nt View Post
Thank you blue-cat.

Alright guys, I have all my components, but I would like to paint my case before I build my system. I have ordered some things from eBay in preparation of this.

I know I need to sand paper the mentioned case beforehand so the paint will "catch" onto the bare metal after I prime. I have ordered sandpaper ranging from 200-2000 in levels. I would like some tips on how I should go about this process, should I remove the rivets of the cage bays which I want to paint green and do the bays separately, then remove the rivets of the motherboard tray and do that black?

Should I purchase new rivets? Will it be difficult to reconstruct my HAF 932?
Thanks for any help.
Rivets can be found for VERY cheap. Screwfix does 500 for around £10 while B&Q does 50 for around £2. Or you can go online to find ones to match your colour scheme.

I'd highly reccommend taking the case apart, especially seeing as your not going for a single colour. Whilst together the chance of overspray is heavily increased and access for full paint coverage is incredibly better when apart.
The case goes back together nice and easily, just assemble from the base up making sure you start by rivetting the hdd cage to the drivebay if your keeping both.

Your using montana spray paints, I'm pretty certain they'll be fine as they're used on all sorts of surfaces including metal and councils have a hell of a time getting them off should look good.
Orange and White
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HTPC
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Orange Ice Mk. 2
(29 photos)
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Phenom II 965 BE 3.4Ghz Gigabyte 990FXA UD7 KFA2 GTX 970 EXOC Infinity 8 Gb DDRIII 1333 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
256GB Crucial M4 Samsung Spinpoint F1 1TB Phanteks TC14PE-OR Windows 7 Ultimate 64 Bit 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Dell U2515H LG Flatron W2252S Beige Keyboard by "Tiny" Corsair TX750 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Fractal Design Define R4 Cheap "Trust" Mouse Steel Series Steelseries Orange Headphones 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Athlon II x2 235e ASUS M5A78L-M HD3850 Patriot 4GB DDR3 1033MHz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
80GB 2.5" HDD Samsung Bluray Reader Scythe Shuriken + 2x120mm + 1x80mm Win 7 
MonitorPowerCase
Sony 40" TV (1080p) Corsair CX430 Antec Fusion Remote 
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Orange and White
(16 items)
 
HTPC
(16 items)
 
Orange Ice Mk. 2
(29 photos)
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Phenom II 965 BE 3.4Ghz Gigabyte 990FXA UD7 KFA2 GTX 970 EXOC Infinity 8 Gb DDRIII 1333 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
256GB Crucial M4 Samsung Spinpoint F1 1TB Phanteks TC14PE-OR Windows 7 Ultimate 64 Bit 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Dell U2515H LG Flatron W2252S Beige Keyboard by "Tiny" Corsair TX750 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Fractal Design Define R4 Cheap "Trust" Mouse Steel Series Steelseries Orange Headphones 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Athlon II x2 235e ASUS M5A78L-M HD3850 Patriot 4GB DDR3 1033MHz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
80GB 2.5" HDD Samsung Bluray Reader Scythe Shuriken + 2x120mm + 1x80mm Win 7 
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Sony 40" TV (1080p) Corsair CX430 Antec Fusion Remote 
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post #7885 of 23527
Let me know what you guys think..








REAPER
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REAPER
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Windows 8 PRO ROG Swift PG278Q ROG Swift PG278Q ROG Swift PG278Q 
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post #7886 of 23527
Wow, that is absolutely stunning
post #7887 of 23527
Oh my! That rig is just... Omg!
post #7888 of 23527
Quote:
Originally Posted by blue-cat View Post
Rivets can be found for VERY cheap. Screwfix does 500 for around £10 while B&Q does 50 for around £2. Or you can go online to find ones to match your colour scheme.

I'd highly reccommend taking the case apart, especially seeing as your not going for a single colour. Whilst together the chance of overspray is heavily increased and access for full paint coverage is incredibly better when apart.
The case goes back together nice and easily, just assemble from the base up making sure you start by rivetting the hdd cage to the drivebay if your keeping both.

Your using montana spray paints, I'm pretty certain they'll be fine as they're used on all sorts of surfaces including metal and councils have a hell of a time getting them off should look good.
Thank you very, very much!

Does anyone else have any suggestions? I should only sandpaper slightly so I don't shape the metal, right? How long should I leave the prime, first coat of paint, second coat of paint and clear coat to dry?
post #7889 of 23527
Quote:
Originally Posted by blue-cat View Post
quoting all those pictures, that's a middle finger to F.O.B. right there
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
@Yanger, hey Mate could you edit all but one out of your reply? I have a slow wireless connection and it's hanging up my feed when lots of pics are on the page. Thanks.

~Ceadder
Quote:
Originally Posted by MIH View Post
I second this statement....please refrain from quoting all pics....just the one you are referring to.
Some people ay...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironcrossfire View Post
HAF 932 owner here. Plz add me to the list O holy one.
Never been called that before?? Your added!

Quote:
Originally Posted by _REAPER_ View Post
Let me know what you guys think..


Those 2 pics make me want to buy a HAF X!
post #7890 of 23527
Double post I know... I'm ashamed of myself!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamiem1nt View Post
Thank you very, very much!

Does anyone else have any suggestions? I should only sandpaper slightly so I don't shape the metal, right? How long should I leave the prime, first coat of paint, second coat of paint and clear coat to dry?
Only a light sand is needed!

Check the can for a respray time. Personally for primer, I respray every 2 hours and after the last coat of that, I leave it to dry/harden for a day at least. After then, a light sand and onto painting.

While painting, I apply each coat after 1 hour and no more than maybe 3 coats in a day. If it still needs more paint, leave it a day to dry/harden like the primer, then lightly sand and respray. Also be sure to let it sit for a day or 2 before using it. This gives the paint a chance to harden even more.

I've never used clear coat so not sure about that. I don't think its neccesery either.

Hope that helps!
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