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The Official Bong Lovers Club {56k FAIL} - Page 90

post #891 of 1335
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Im not hiding or anything...just trying to figure out how to turn what I already have into a towel rack. How long do the towels have to be? should they sit above the water or in it? I don't see how it matters really...I also want to make it so its easily changeable back and forth between the bong.
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post #892 of 1335
Would a micro version work? Say if I was to build a 30cm mini one and put it in the front of my Cosmos S, would it work and give good temps?
post #893 of 1335
1 foot... doubtful. two or three, hell yeah.
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post #894 of 1335
Thread Starter 
Actually you can make a micro size one. You will have to fill the res a lot but you can do it. It will cool your CPU just fine. I would be very interested to see how small one could be built and still hold the temps the way evaps do.
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post #895 of 1335
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIRTYDUCK View Post
How long do the towels have to be? should they sit above the water or in it?
If you want it to be silent, then the towel's ends/tips need to touch into the water. Not really far or anything...just enough to prevent that "dripping" sound....
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post #896 of 1335
mini you say, hmm yeah, might have to hook up a auto filler, the smaller the system the faster the fan speed required as the water spends less time on the cloth, that leads to quicker evap requiring more filling. with a larger 6 rung with large towels the fan needs not spin fast reducing evap, i dont see why a small 2 runger wouldnt work.
    
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post #897 of 1335
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIRTYDUCK View Post
Im not hiding or anything...just trying to figure out how to turn what I already have into a towel rack. How long do the towels have to be? should they sit above the water or in it? I don't see how it matters really...I also want to make it so its easily changeable back and forth between the bong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Naja002 View Post
If you want it to be silent, then the towel's ends/tips need to touch into the water. Not really far or anything...just enough to prevent that "dripping" sound....
This. I wish my towels were a little longer. I can always tell when it is time to fill the reservoir now because I start hearing a drip drip drip. I'd suggest leave them long enough to be a couple inches inside the water. Just not so long that they come near your pump intake. Not sure how close would be safe/dangerous. I have no experience with submersible pumps in this sort of rig.

re. not hiding... sure you are I say just bite the bullet and get 2 new tubs to use for this, some wood or other strong stuff to hold up the weight of the upper tub, some zip ties to attach the rack to those 2 'extra' pieces of pipe I sent (or if not long enough, to whatever you can find that will work to hold the rack across the upper tub.)
For the rack to sit level you may possibly have to cut a 'notch' in the tub where the tube coming in sits. I had to do this.
re. quck change back and forth, I think the quickest change method is this - building the new reservoir/rack hanger and sitting it next to the old bong.
Eventually I am confident the old one will be 'converted' to other uses

Quote:
Originally Posted by almighty15 View Post
Would a micro version work? Say if I was to build a 30cm mini one and put it in the front of my Cosmos S, would it work and give good temps?
Yes. 30cm tall tower bongs do work. However they are made differently from tall tower bongs. pm me if you want build advice / info - I've made 2 of these mini bongs and both worked / are still working fine.
Edited by nub - 11/22/09 at 1:41pm
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post #898 of 1335
Howdy Fellow Bonger's. This is my first post since boot camp haven't had a chance to read back everything I've missed. Have there been any sweet bong setups lately that I havnt seen??
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post #899 of 1335
Yeah, my bong. It was a 6 and a half foot tall beauty but I dismantled it a week later and built a Naja chiller.

Right now I am getting 40 degree load temps with a low speed YL fan @ 9v aimed at the center of the tub. I cleaned out my block, it had an unreal amount of gunk where I had not been running a filter on my pump. I of course had to reseat my block in the process as well. I am using Shin Etsu X23 which has a short cure time but I may still get another couple degrees as it has not had any hot/cold cycles. I also hope to drop a few degrees by mounting two 120mm fans in the top of the lid. I also have a 250mm fan that has been begging to be used. Anyway, I'll start with one 120mm intake and an exhaust in the opposite corner.

As for material, the felt is really good. It is very porous and it dries (not drains) very quickly. This porosity does come at a price, though. It requires a pretty good amount of flow to keep it saturated as it does not hold nearly the amount of water as say, a towel. This is both good and bad.

Anyway, highest load temps I can get are around 42-44 load, fanless/open top. 38-40 load, fan directed at center/open top. Those temps are on a Phenom 9850 BE @ 2.9 Ghz @ 1.49 volts. I'm actually going to try to get another couple hundred Mhz with these slightly lower temps.

EDIT:
As for towel length, I made my towels two inches shorter per side than the height from the rack to the bottom. I have a big prefilter on my pump and thus have no concerns about the felt blocking the intake. I am also not concerned about flow since the same amount of water is flowing from all the racks so it has to end up in in the res and eventually in the pump.

Basically, if you have a larger intake screen or prefilter on your pump, it should be fine.
Edited by NETio - 11/22/09 at 4:39pm
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post #900 of 1335
You have any pics of the hvc/naja set up in action?
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