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Info: how to insulate your mobo for TEC/Peltier Cooling - Page 5

post #41 of 50
Where's the kneaded eraser? All the guides I've seen before have used that to layer on the mobo...

I'm just confused and want to know the ultimate best way to insulate for 24/7 use.

Also, a good thing to add to this guide would be where to buy these things... or maybe I'm a noob and they're all available at the hardware store :X
Edited by LarsMarkelson - 11/26/09 at 10:17am
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post #42 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarsMarkelson View Post
Where's the kneaded eraser? All the guides I've seen before have used that to layer on the mobo...

I'm just confused and want to know the ultimate best way to insulate for 24/7 use.

Also, a good thing to add to this guide would be where to buy these things... or maybe I'm a noob and they're all available at the hardware store :X
i agree. I read the XS guide and i think it's a better method.
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post #43 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarsMarkelson View Post
Where's the kneaded eraser? All the guides I've seen before have used that to layer on the mobo...

I'm just confused and want to know the ultimate best way to insulate for 24/7 use.

Also, a good thing to add to this guide would be where to buy these things... or maybe I'm a noob and they're all available at the hardware store :X
Look over in the DICE/LN2 section for a guide on eraser. I don't like it myself, I'd rather do Conformal or nail polish, neoprene and di-electric or vaseline for 24/7. A lot of guy seem to like the eraser method though. There are a lot of ways to do it, just depends on preference mostly. This guide is the old original way of doing it.

I proof heavier for TEC then I do for my phase or DICE rigs, TEC temp's just bounce around on mine from -30C idle to +6C or so load, it does that constantly and I get more condensation from it. A lot will depend on your humidity level, the higher the humidity the higher your dew point will be and the easier you'll get condensation, you have to go below dew point to have condensation issues.

You can get neoprene on eBay cheap sometimes. Or use Armaflex or Frost King tape.

Di-electric you can get at "Under The Ice" or Danger den. Or at some auto parts stores, they use it for spark plug boot grease.

"Liquid Tape" is great for going over Conformal or nail polish or even just by itself. You can get it at auto parts stores or WalMart.


.There are some guides here for proofing also..Insulation Parts - Danger Den

..Under The Ice - UNDER THE ICE
Edited by ira-k - 11/26/09 at 7:34pm
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post #44 of 50
Dang ira, I was going to +rep you but then I can't because you're a moderator, lol. Thanks for the info, very useful and what I was looking for!

Say you want to go back to water or air, how do you clean up all that conformal polish?
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post #45 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarsMarkelson View Post
Dang ira, I was going to +rep you but then I can't because you're a moderator, lol. Thanks for the info, very useful and what I was looking for!

Say you want to go back to water or air, how do you clean up all that conformal polish?
Hey it's NP, glad to help..

I don't know if you can get Conformal off or not, I've never tried to.

You can get di-electric grease or Vaseline off with a blow dryer, just flip your board up-side down and heat it up with the gun to get it out of your socket. Then I use a little acetone to finish cleaning it up. The hardware store type acetone that comes in a quart metal can.

If you think you'll keep the mobo that long or want to re-use it for something else you can just use "Liquid Tape" on the mobo and grease the socket, then use grease on top of the dried "Liquid Tape" along with some neoprene, that will keep you from getting grease all over your mobo. Just be sure to use neoprene over the socket are in the back also. Put 2 or 3 heavy coats of the "Liquid Tape" on the front, it peels off easier if it's thick.

Look in my pic gallery for some proofing pic's, then over in the DICE/LN2 forum there are quite a few proofing pic's in the threads there.

I over proof most of the time but I haven't killed a mobo to condensation yet, I've volted quite a few to death though....But to me having it well insulated is just one less thing to worry about, I can get on with the clocking then...

It's really easy to do after you've done a couple of them, I kind of enjoy doing it anymore, I used to think it was a pain in the neck though..
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post #46 of 50
Good job and I'm sure you'll have no issues, however you went way overboard, I wouldn't use that much with a -100C cascade.
post #47 of 50
whether traces of conformal coating, die electric grease, silicone rubber adhesive, and liquid electric tape can be cleaned from the motherboard???
and how???
thanks
post #48 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by ira-k;7754096 
Hey it's NP, glad to help..smile.gif

I don't know if you can get Conformal off or not, I've never tried to.

You can get di-electric grease or Vaseline off with a blow dryer, just flip your board up-side down and heat it up with the gun to get it out of your socket. Then I use a little acetone to finish cleaning it up. The hardware store type acetone that comes in a quart metal can.

If you think you'll keep the mobo that long or want to re-use it for something else you can just use "Liquid Tape" on the mobo and grease the socket, then use grease on top of the dried "Liquid Tape" along with some neoprene, that will keep you from getting grease all over your mobo. Just be sure to use neoprene over the socket are in the back also. Put 2 or 3 heavy coats of the "Liquid Tape" on the front, it peels off easier if it's thick.

Look in my pic gallery for some proofing pic's, then over in the DICE/LN2 forum there are quite a few proofing pic's in the threads there.

I over proof most of the time but I haven't killed a mobo to condensation yet, I've volted quite a few to death though..tongue.gif..But to me having it well insulated is just one less thing to worry about, I can get on with the clocking then...smile.gif

It's really easy to do after you've done a couple of them, I kind of enjoy doing it anymore, I used to think it was a pain in the neck though..biggrin.gif

i use to use LN2 and Dice back in the old days (when celerons were new tongue.gif) and i never used greese... what is the point? and i always just used electrical tape cause it comes off real well and leaves no marks smile.gif... i also packed a few away in electical tape to preserve them (works like a charm smile.gif)
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post #49 of 50
Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead after so long, but...

Can somebody recommend some conformal coating that I can use. If I can order it from Amazon, that would be great. But not necessary. I tried to see which type you were using, but couldn't make it out from the pics. I could see Dow Corning, but when I looked at their website, they have literally dozens of different conformal coatings and I can't tell which I should use.
Actually, I have an ASrock OC Formula board with what they call water proof coating. Should I still use the conformal coating in addition to that? I mean, you can clearly tell the board is coated when you look at it closely.
Another question I have, I had to planned to use a high end TEC cooler. A 12726 I believe, I'm at work so don't have the info on hand. It's a 400 watt cooler. My concern is that it would work so well that the area outside the insulated section of the board would get cold enough to start condensing.
Currently, I have been using a set of water blocks with 3 TEC 12715s sandwiched between them to chill my CPU loops liquid. Which works really well, but the condensation is an issue and the temps aren't low enough to justify continuing this method. I'm still seeing temps hitting close to 50C under load, after being on for awhile. Usually the temps would be closer to 60C with just my water cooling. So I want to go to direct contact. My idle temps are around 0-1C.
My last question is about doing this using GPUs. I have two GTX 980s that I'm currently water cooling. Is anybody using the TECs to cool their graphics cards? I thought about going the chilled liquid with that route too, but if I can do something similar to the direct contact method and avoid damage due to condensation I would be willing to go that route. I have a couple nice power supplies lying around to use to power these coolers, so that's not an issue and I can liquid cool them to keep them from overheating.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me. I'm pretty dedicated to doing this, I've been playing around with them for awhile, and I'm confident I can make this work without damaging my hardware.
post #50 of 50
well I too have had serious issues with condensation on my TEC build in the past, but there are a few ways of preventing it, one way is how OCaddict did his water chiller build.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1390376/peltier-tec-hybrid-water-cooling
another way is to use controllers to keep the builds cold side temp above the condensation point like puck has done.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1473171/triple-tecs-double-chiller-direct-die-cascade-sure-why-not
or you could stay tuned to see how I am going to achieve below 0C water temps without the worry of condensation.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1584867/tec-vacuum-chamber-build-log
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