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i7 920 overclocking thread - Page 137

post #1361 of 1913
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrharvey View Post
Those are great temps. Keep pushing it. You should be able to get at least 3.9ghz or 4.0 and keep it under 75c for sure.

Cool, the TRUE is performing excellent then, MX-2 paste and unlapped base. I want to push this to 4ghz, can someone give me a direction?

And how can I get the DRAM to 1600MHz? There's only an option list provided with some odd numbers.

Current:

Bclk: 186
DRAM: 1491
CPU Voltage: 1.35
QPI: 1.35
CPU PPL: 1.96
Differential Amplitude: 800mV
Speedstep: Disabled
Turbo: Disabled

rest auto
Edited by siric - 3/17/09 at 8:36pm
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post #1362 of 1913
Quote:
Originally Posted by siric View Post
Cool, the TRUE is performing excellent then, MX-2 paste and unlapped base. I want to push this to 4ghz, can someone give me a direction?

And how can I get the DRAM to 1600MHz? There's only an option list provided with some odd numbers.

Current:

Bclk: 186
DRAM: 1491
CPU Voltage: 1.35
QPI: 1.35
CPU PPL: 1.96
Differential Amplitude: 800mV
Speedstep: Disabled
Turbo: Disabled

rest auto
WHY IS YOUR PLL SO HIGH? I dont think you need that much. Anyone else agree?

Your memory is only set to a multiplier that is a combination of the multi and the Bclock to give you those options. Changing the Bclock is going to change your RAM speed. To get 1600mhz even you would need a Bclock of 200. The general rule is to keep the memory as close to the rated speed as possible and maybe a bit above (As long as its stable). You can actually overclock your RAM to 1700-1800 or whatever you want as long as its stable. Honestly there is no real point because you are always limited by CPU speed before you need to tap into memory bandwidth. Your current RAM speed is just fine. Its not a problem.
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post #1363 of 1913
Yeah, you probably don't need more than the stock 1.8v PLL.

Quote:
Originally Posted by siric View Post
And how can I get the DRAM to 1600MHz? There's only an option list provided with some odd numbers.
You're not going to be able to get exactly 1600 with a BCLK of 186.

It's next bump after the speed you are using now is ~1860, if you keep your current BCLK.
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post #1364 of 1913
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blameless View Post
Yeah, you probably don't need more than the stock 1.8v PLL.



You're not going to be able to get exactly 1600 with a BCLK of 186.

It's next bump after the speed you are using now is ~1860, if you keep your current BCLK.
I was able to get stable at 4ghz on a 1.8V PLL. What if you go higher, would you need to change it. I dont think it works the same as the core2 series that actually needed a small bump when you get high clocks. I havnt really tried 4.2-4.4ghz stable yet. I got that high but didnt test stability.
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post #1365 of 1913
Ok Sig Rig and I can't get this thing past 3.38 @ 73 degrees during load. Most BCLK Freq I have tried above 161 either fail P95 tests or it simply doesn't load Windows.

EDIT: got it to 3.8 BSOD...got it to 3.6 and i was running 78 degrees 5 min into P95. Should I lower my CPU and QPI to lower temps? Changed numbers below.

CPU Ratio = 19
SpdStep = Enabled
Turbo = Enabled
BCLK Freq = 190
PCI Freq = 100

DRAM Timings 7-7-7-24

CPU V = 1.3
PLL = Auto
QPI = 1.3
DRAM = 1.66

A20M = Disabled
Everything else Enabled or Auto

Most the time when I change my CPU Ratio or BCLK I F10 to save settings and the computer wont auto restart and I get a "Overclock failed go back to setup".

EDIT: The issue stated above and below kept happening untill I gave up and went back to default to post...is there a time where your computer hiccups and wont load properly (regardless of good input) unless you get a clean windows load in between bad Overclock settings?

Help...I must be doing something wrong....I got to 161 BLCK and when I went back to make some changes after reading some newer results and getting pumped about my 2nd attempt I couldn't even get my 161 BCLK to work and had to default....gonna try again to get my 161 back at least but...yea...help.

EDIT: I want to run 24/7 around 3.6-3.8 with 70 or lower temps and low voltage. I would also like to keep Turbo and HT enabled to ensure future gaming does not get bottlenecked by my overclocking. Is this asking too much or am I misinformed about the uses of HT and Turbo?
Edited by Shadowclock - 3/17/09 at 10:04pm
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post #1366 of 1913
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrharvey View Post
WHY IS YOUR PLL SO HIGH? I dont think you need that much. Anyone else agree?

Your memory is only set to a multiplier that is a combination of the multi and the Bclock to give you those options. Changing the Bclock is going to change your RAM speed. To get 1600mhz even you would need a Bclock of 200. The general rule is to keep the memory as close to the rated speed as possible and maybe a bit above (As long as its stable). You can actually overclock your RAM to 1700-1800 or whatever you want as long as its stable. Honestly there is no real point because you are always limited by CPU speed before you need to tap into memory bandwidth. Your current RAM speed is just fine. Its not a problem.
Ahh, thanks for the info. Yes, the sticks are rated 1600mhz and that's the speed I would like. So this is only possible if I set BCLK to 200? Weird! Why not work right out of the box correctly.

I guess 200 BCLK is the way to go then, anything else I need to change in order to get that stable?
Edited by siric - 3/17/09 at 10:17pm
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post #1367 of 1913
No I think you can get to 3.8 with turbo and Ht on.
Okay for overclocking though turn turbo off it makes things harder when trying to push the CPU, so turn it off and then find a good base clock, say 180 then turn turbo on and it will boost that 180 up even more. Do not leave voltages on auto since the BIOS does not always do the best job setting them.
Most likely you can not get into windows due to you QPI voltage which is the QPI link, this has to be higher than default if you want to overclock in the 3.5 range or higher. Now the max QPI voltage is 1.35V, which is about +0.24, but do not push it I would only max out at +0.18V IF you need it.
Turn off speed step please, turn of spread spectrum, turn off Overspeed protection, turn off C1/C0, turn of EISt (turbo), now you CPU PLL has a max of 1.88V (+0.08V), which is in Intel's spec, it helps me increasing this to 1.88V to get a stable 3.9 overclock. Now leave PCI frequency alone,since that deals with your graphics cards and other devices.
Okay so your voltage is high enough to get at least a 3.6 overclock I would say, but that might be voltage with turbo on, since turbo mode pumps more voltage into the chip even if you tell it not to, say you set CPU voltage to +0.15V, which would end up being 1.342V, without Turbo, but with Turbo on the voltage would really be around 1.38V, it kicks in some volts to help that extra multiplier.
okay leave HT on, it will produce more heat but it helps a little more then without it.
Now with your cooler it should keep the i7 with in the 70-80 degree centigrade range, mine runs at 77 max on a core when stressing. Also use a program called Linx, here is the link: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=201670 Please use it since it works so much better than Prime 95, it can tell if system is unstable with in 5 to 15 minutes and it generates more heat for CPU, so you can see how hot it really gets. Also stress with the max memory hit the "All" button and use all the memory you have to stress CPU, since Linx stresses both CPU and RAM at same time and it will kick you into a blue screen if system is unstable. now if system is close to stable, (passes Linx with 20 tests, using a problem size of about 20,000 (I use 25,000 due to having 6 gigs of RAM yours might be less) now with it passing then let it run for about 3 hours to see if system is rock hard stable. Then use Memtest +86 2.11 here is link:http://www.pcgameshardware.com/aid,6...test/Download/ Now burn the ISO to a cd, then restart system with it in Cd drive and it will run, let it run 2 full tests, it will test your RAM to see if that is stable, and then you are in the clear. Now use RealTemp for temps. http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/ Also Core temp : http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/ Now use CPU-z to read info from CPU: http://www.cpuid.com/.
Okay back to voltages, and base clock turn base clock say up to 180, since you want a 3.6 overclock (with turbo on it will give about 3.8 overclock), then set voltages higher, something like CPU, +0.120, QPI +0.13, PLL +0.04 (making 1.84), Now pull RAM back down to 1.64V, since Core i7 and the RAM voltage of 1.66 are not good at all, so go 1.64V for RAM. Then leave IOH voltage alone, not auto for +0.00V. Best to have your QPI link set to 4.8 Gt/s. Okay with setting those voltages high, save and exit and see if windows will boot up, and if it does great run Linx with Coretmep and Realtemp going to monitor temps and watch to see if they jump past 80 if so I would back off your overclock, or it might be from higher voltages. Then if those voltage work for about 45 minutes with Linx, restart computer go into BIOS and then cut 0.01V on CPU voltage and 0.01 on QPI ( leave QPI +0.01V higher than CPU voltage). Now if those votlages do not let you boot into windows then jump them up 0.01 volts until you get in. It is a time consuming thing man be patient and test each setting with Linx and record temp, maybe write in notebook your Base clock and voltages so you can see what you did and what did not work. Also it is best best to leave memory multiplier at 4, or 8, in this case leave it at 4, since it works best in those multipliers, and then have your Uncore multiplier twice the memory multiplier, so 4 memory and 8 uncore. Turn off all power saving things on the CPU, since it will kill your overclock and not give CPU enough power, or cut power when it needs it. Make sure your fans are in push/pull config, works best with these cpus. Then if you get something that is rock stable turn on turbo and see how it is and if it boots and then run Linx with turbo and it is stable keep it on. Ummm, what else, can I think of...nothing right now, but come back and let me know how you did.
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post #1368 of 1913
Here is all I need to get my P6T Deluxe to push my Core i7 920 to 4.0 Ghz on air (lapped TRUE with MX-2 and lapped CPU too).

Manual mode
CPU Ratio: Auto (20)
Turbo/speedstep: off
Bclk 200
DRAM Voltage: 1.66 (will not hurt it at all, Intel is just playing it safe. 1.64 will work if you are paranoid about it, but 1.66 is .01 more voltage than the memory asks for!)
DRAM Speed: 1603
DRAM Timings: 8-8-8-24 (may be able to go lower, no need!)
Cstate: On (auto mode) (made a big cooling difference and did not effect speed or stability.)

CPU Vcore: 1.35
PLL: Auto (no need to raise!)
QPI: 1.35

Everything else on auto. This brings me to 4.02 Ghz, RAM slightly overclocked to 1603 with nearly stock timings, and Idle hovers around 34-30-29-29 +/- 3

Load temps rarely exceed 70 degrees when stress testing (usually mid 60's). Game temps barely exceed 50-55 and usually hover in the 40's (Crysis included). This is in a 68 degree room with my Antec 1200 case.

Mileage may vary, but this is how I run mine and it screams (26,340 3dmark 06, not bad at all!). Prime95 Stable overnight, and Linpack: no errors even when run for over an hour.

Just bought a water cooling setup which should be here tomorrow. Hoping to be able to fight back temps even more!
Edited by ricsim78 - 3/17/09 at 10:34pm
     
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post #1369 of 1913
Jake you have a lot of homework for me to do...will attempt to run some of that stuff tomorrow when I get home from work.

Latest update:

I dropped to 1.275 CPU and QPI and went to 1.64 DRAM but temps after 3 P95 tests got up to 76 so I am not happy with that.

Will try disabling everything you said and follow the steps....almost TLDR LOL JK but can you fix the format so my head doesn't hurt when I read the great instructions?

+rep for the help, links, info.
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post #1370 of 1913
Just sticking my foot into this thread so I wont forget about it later. I'm building a very nice liquid cooled ddr3 2000 core i7 920 rig once newegg restocks the last few item's I'm waiting on and I will of course be overclocking this beast

Check my system "Arcane" if interested.
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CPUGraphicsRAMHard Drive
Core 2 Duo 2.4GHz Conroe Core GTX 280 (Temporarily Removed) 4GB Corsair XMS2 150GB Raptor X 
Hard DriveOSOSMonitor
WD Caviar 160GB Vista Home Premium 64bit Ubuntu Samsung 226BW 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Saitek Cyborg Zalman 1000 watt Apevia X-Discovery Razer Deathadder 
Mouse PadAudio
Razer Mantis Control Creative X-Fi Xtreme Music 
CPUMotherboardRAMHard Drive
Core i5-661 GA-H55-USB3 12GB DDR3 1333 WD Caviar Black AALS 640GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
WD Caviar Green EARS 2TB Vertex Turbo 60GB (SSD) Samsung Blu-ray, Samsung DVD Burner H50 (With push/pull nocturas) 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 7 Professional 64 LG 47in LED LCD Saitek Eclipse Lite-touch Wireless Seasonic X750 Gold 
CaseAudioOtherOther
CM690 II Passive bookshelfspeakers + amp. Dual TV-Tuner card Comcast decoder card. 
Other
Fios decoder card. 
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Arcane
(33 items)
 
Tempest
(14 items)
 
Fukurou
(18 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Core i7 980x GIGABYTE GA-EX58-UD5 MSI GeForce GTX 680 Lightning ASUS Geforce GTX 560ti DCII 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Kingston HyperX T1 Intel X25-M WD Caviar Black FASS Plextor M5S 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOptical Drive
WD Velociraptor WD Caviar Black FALS Sony DVD Burner w/ Lightscribe LG Bluray + HDDVD 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Black Ice GTX 360 Black Ice GTX 240 Panaflo High Speed - Push-Pull w/ shrouds Windows 7 Pro (64) 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Ubuntu (64) X-Star DP2710 ASUS VK266H Black 25.5" 2ms LCD X-Armor U9BL (Mech) 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
EVGA 1000 P2 Cooler Master HAF 932 Razer Deathadder Chroma Cougar Control 
AudioAudioAudioAudio
ATH-A900X Maudio AV-40 Polk PSW-10 Zalman Mic-1 (Clip-on Mic) 
AudioOtherOtherOther
Sound Blaster X7 LE Logitech G13 Wacom Intuos 3 Scythe "3-Foot Switch" 
Other
Modded PS4, PS3, Xbox 360, and Logitech PC Cont... 
CPUGraphicsRAMHard Drive
Core 2 Duo 2.4GHz Conroe Core GTX 280 (Temporarily Removed) 4GB Corsair XMS2 150GB Raptor X 
Hard DriveOSOSMonitor
WD Caviar 160GB Vista Home Premium 64bit Ubuntu Samsung 226BW 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Saitek Cyborg Zalman 1000 watt Apevia X-Discovery Razer Deathadder 
Mouse PadAudio
Razer Mantis Control Creative X-Fi Xtreme Music 
CPUMotherboardRAMHard Drive
Core i5-661 GA-H55-USB3 12GB DDR3 1333 WD Caviar Black AALS 640GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
WD Caviar Green EARS 2TB Vertex Turbo 60GB (SSD) Samsung Blu-ray, Samsung DVD Burner H50 (With push/pull nocturas) 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 7 Professional 64 LG 47in LED LCD Saitek Eclipse Lite-touch Wireless Seasonic X750 Gold 
CaseAudioOtherOther
CM690 II Passive bookshelfspeakers + amp. Dual TV-Tuner card Comcast decoder card. 
Other
Fios decoder card. 
  hide details  
Reply
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