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Found a faulty EVGA 680i on Ebay.

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
As the title says, I have found a 680i on ebay with a supposed fault. The sellers says he knocked a capacitor clean off the board when installing a graphics card. He never registered with Evga (numpty) so no warranty. The board shows "--" on the LED readout when attempting to post and he said it all lights up ok.

Do you reckon I could repair the capacitor(resolder it back on or a replacement)? If so, would the board work/be worth it for £10-20?

Thanks Guys
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Re:Define
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post #2 of 11
If you have that kind of skills then it would be worth it but I can see issues down the road and maybe not worth it in the long run.
post #3 of 11
if you think YOU could fix it
then yeah..i say go for it.
but if you never used a soldering iron in your life.. its probly still worth it
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post #4 of 11
A good way of learning how to solder.
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1.21 Gigawatts
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post #5 of 11
Experience is the best way to gain skill. If it's only £10 to £20 go for it. Even if you don't get it working, you will have gained some experience along the way.
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post #6 of 11
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the input guys. I last used a soldering iron a year ago, so some skills need to be brushed up on! Now to convince mum to lend me the ££.
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Re:Define
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post #7 of 11
Just tell her you need the money for the sake of science and justice, and that if she has any compassion she'll lend you the money.
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post #8 of 11
few things to think of though.

do you know what value the capacitor was or does he still have it?
are the traces by chance damaged when he broke it off?

as far as soldering itself goes don't put the tip the item to be soldered and then bring the solder to the iron. that will create a bad joint many times. look up a cold joint

best way and it takes practice to be abl eto do it right is to touch the solder to what you are trying to join rather then the iron. the item you are putting the solder needs to be hot enough for that solder to bond with it and flow over it but yet not hot enough to cause any damage as heat will travel up metal. also you want to use as little amount of solder as you can more or less. too much solder doesn't make the joint stronger, makes a mess, and can short things out.


if all was done right you should end up with just a dab of solder on where things joined taht has a nice shiney perfectly smooth little bump where the joint is rather then one that is a little rough looking looking and doesn't have that nice polished shine to it.



also just a quick question out of curiosity why mum? mom is also used on that side of the pond isn't it? or is mum the proper way to shorten mother? sorry don't know how you all say things over there so just curious.
Edited by rx7speed - 12/14/08 at 7:34am
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post #9 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rx7speed View Post
few things to think of though.

do you know what value the capacitor was or does he still have it?
are the traces by chance damaged when he broke it off?

as far as soldering itself goes don't put the tip the item to be soldered and then bring the solder to the iron. that will create a bad joint many times. look up a cold joint

best way and it takes practice to be abl eto do it right is to touch the solder to what you are trying to join rather then the iron. the item you are putting the solder needs to be hot enough for that solder to bond with it and flow over it but yet not hot enough to cause any damage as heat will travel up metal. also you want to use as little amount of solder as you can more or less. too much solder doesn't make the joint stronger, makes a mess, and can short things out.


if all was done right you should end up with just a dab of solder on where things joined taht has a nice shiney perfectly smooth little bump where the joint is rather then one that is a little rough looking looking and doesn't have that nice polished shine to it.



also just a quick question out of curiosity why mum? mom is also used on that side of the pond isn't it? or is mum the proper way to shorten mother? sorry don't know how you all say things over there so just curious.
Thanks for the tips! +
He said it was in the area C6-C9. The capacitor is completely undamaged.
I have always said Mum. My mother is from Birmingham and they all say Mom and write it like that. But down here in the south-west of england (we are all farmers) Mum is the way it said!
Re:Define
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Re:Define
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post #10 of 11
The -- code may or may not be related to the missing capacitor. The 680i has a number of issues without having parts knocked off them. If the board was free or almost free then it might be worth messing around with but, $20-$30 for a likely dead board is a waste of money IMO.

That said if you do buy it and can get it up and running you will be golden.
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