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[Project] Pearl in the Rough - Page 29

post #281 of 326
I love it, And your a braver man then me, I wont work with allot of plexi glass, because I would crake it or scratch it
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post #282 of 326
@enersis: I personally don't understand how people break and crack acrylic so much. It never happens to me for some reason. Maybe acrylic properties vary between manufacturers etc. I think that alot of people use wood cutting blades on everything to try and cut acrylic which is suicide, but i dunno, i see people screwing up acrylic using a dremel
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post #283 of 326
Quote:
Originally Posted by oliverw92 View Post
@enersis: I personally don't understand how people break and crack acrylic so much. It never happens to me for some reason. Maybe acrylic properties vary between manufacturers etc. I think that alot of people use wood cutting blades on everything to try and cut acrylic which is suicide, but i dunno, i see people screwing up acrylic using a dremel
I just lack xp in it
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Excidius
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post #284 of 326
Quote:
Originally Posted by headcase9 View Post
Damn this is amazing... I just spent an hour and a half reading this thread while I should have been studying for a final, totally worth it!
Same here...
    
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post #285 of 326
Thread Starter 
I haven't had too much trouble adapting wood tools for acrylic use. Well, there was the one, probably inevitable, mishap with the router. But everything else has worked. Drilling is a bit of an issue if you aren't careful though. Bits meant for plastic have a shallower pitch so they take less of a bite out each rotation. If you use regular drill bits you have the chance of it grabbing or blowing out the back. But if you take your time and make sure the piece you are working on it is properly supported on the back then it's smooth sailing.

Thanks for the comments everyone. I'm not quite sure what I'll be working on next.
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post #286 of 326
The main issues are when people use

a) wood bandsaw blades - the teeth on them are a good 5mm apart, on a metal/plastic blade they are less than 1mm.
b) wood jigsaw blades - same case as the bandsaw blade
c) leave hammer action/screwdriver action on on their drill - causes cracking or fires the piece of acrylic across the room with the latter.
d) don't support the acrylic underneath - you can solve the problem of using wood drill bits on acrylic by clamping a piece of wood underneath where you are drilling. Stops the acrylic from bursting out the bottom.
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post #287 of 326
Thread Starter 
For rough cuts I actually have more luck using a jigsaw blade with less TPI, at least on thicker cast acrylic. If the TPI is too high it tends to melt around the blade and gum everything up, for me at least.
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post #288 of 326
Thread Starter 
Ever since my aluminum shell design was abandoned I've always been a little disappointed with how it looked with just the acrylic. So this is what I've done about it. I picked up a couple 8' pieces of aluminum 1/8"x1" flat bar. Then I cut a notch down the whole length with the router.



The plan was to bend it around the perimeter of the case and these two pieces are supposed to hold on some mesh. But of course bending 1/8" thick aluminum to the radius of the corners was a problem. I struggled for at least a whole evening and couldn't even get one bend right. Then I invented this puppy:





With the occasional coaxing from a ball peen I've made some progress.



Mesh will be wedged under the notch and the bars will clamp down the mesh. I think I will be going with the large hole mesh I've been using painted the same color as the case, but there is some smaller diameter mesh I had laying around for an example.





Of course it will go around the whole case. I'll never be satisfied, will I .
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post #289 of 326
Can I has case? Nice job!
    
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post #290 of 326
Your lack of satisfaction is good for everyone here...except you.
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