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Do water chillers work? - Page 2

post #11 of 48
A 220 gallon fishtank can pick up quite a bit of ambient heat, probably as much raw energy as your quad puts out. As long as you weren't trying to cool the water to very low temps, I suspect this could help a decent bit.

I would have a standard radiator cool the water before sending it to the chiller, and I wouldn't set the chiller too low.
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post #12 of 48
this thing actually will work. its a 1/3 HP compressor, thats plenty strong for a PC. should get you some really good temps even.
post #13 of 48
I think the temp a large water tank will absorb may be enough to compare to a CPU. It would be worth a try IMO. Make sure you insulate the container the water is going to be in, a styrofoam cooler or something.

Edit, though for that much money it would be wise to find a local seller and get a warranty.
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post #14 of 48
I think everyone above is talking about using the water chiller as the loop itself.

- This would definately not work.

However

If you used the water chiller as the reservior of a CPU loop - it could work. (not sure if the performance gained would be worth the cost though...)

Run the setup like this:

WaterChiller (as a reservior and also assuming it has it's own pump) > CPU block > Radiator (240mm) > Waterchiller/Res

You would be chilling ambient water below ambient - then moving it to the CPU where it would pick up heat and rise above ambient - then the water passes through the radiator which lowers back to *almost* ambient - then the water goes into the chiller lowering it back down below ambient.

The chiller would not be working too hard since it's only trying to chill ambient/slightly-above-ambient water.

It could work although a simple TEC waterchiller/res setup would be cheaper.
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post #15 of 48
The most important spec on this is.... 120V 60Hz 380 watts .


I am assuming 60% efficency of phase cooling from AC units: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_con...pment_capacity


Therefore, the unit can move around 228w which means it can handle dual-cores and lower TDP quads. However, the tuning of the unit is probably for higher temps.
Edited by DuckieHo - 12/19/08 at 7:30am
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post #16 of 48
Hi guys, first let me say that I'm a refrigeration engineer by profession. I hate having to explain that, but it'll save a lot of discussion about whether I'm full of it, or actually know something.

A 1/3 hp chiller will actually have too much cooling capacity for a CPU, and that wouldn't be a problem except that there is no good way to modulate the capacity. This unit is designed to cool a huge mass of water, so it modulates it's capacity by shutting the chiller off (it shuts off the compressor and condenser fan) when the temperature reaches the setpoint of the controller. It then restarts when the temperature has risen to the (setpoint + hysteresis) value of the controller. For an aquarium this is fine because they are so big that it will take a lot of time to complete one cycle.

If you have no reservoir, you will reach the setpoint in a few minutes after you start up , cycle off and then 5 seconds later the chiller will try to turn on again. It is extremely hard to restart a compressor when the refrigerant pressures are at a high differential, so either the compressor won't start or it will but will dim the lights in the room and make an annoying racket. Then the chiller will very quickly reach setpoint again and shut off.

This is a common refrigeration problem called rapid cycling or sometimes short cycling, and it will wear out the chiller, but also annoy the heck out of you.

You would have to use a large insulated reservoir to use that chiller, the larger the res, the less annoying the compressor coming on/off will be.

I use a 1/6 hp chiller that I built to use no res and modulate the capacity with a hot gas bypass valve. It is designed to be able to hold the water temperature just above the dewpoint so I don't need to insulate lines against condensation. It has cooling capacity enough to handle any CPU at water temperatures above the dewpoint.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=207640

edit: DuckieHo, you misinterpreted that wikipedia article, look at the cooling capacity and power draw of my unit
Edited by DetroitAC - 12/19/08 at 7:09am
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post #17 of 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckieHo View Post
The most important spec on this is.... 120V 60Hz 380 watts .


I am assuming 60% efficency of phase cooling from AC units: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_con...pment_capacity


Therefore, the unit can move around 228w which means it can handle dual-cores and lower TDP quads. However, the tuning of the unit is probably for higher temps.
phase units can actually remove more heat than they consume
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post #18 of 48
It should work

Mine is a drinking fountain with a 1/5hp compressor from 1980 using r12. Runs like a champ and will cool below freezing. I never went to see how cold it could get tho.

I haven't ran mine in almost a year because of condensation. But mine had a adjustment sensor where I could control it from just above freezing to around 10-15c. I will soon set it back up here someday.

Also theres a website that offers chillers that look just like that one on ebay but offer them for PC only. Not sure what the difference is.


Edited by Sistum Id - 12/19/08 at 7:32am
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post #19 of 48
For a good Chiller I would recomend the Freeze Zone Elite

http://www.coolitsystems.com/index.p...&id=3&Itemid=5
    
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post #20 of 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by DetroitAC View Post
edit: DuckieHo, you misinterpreted that wikipedia article, look at the cooling capacity and power draw of my unit
Thanks for the input!

Is cool capacity equal to (target temperature - load temperature)?


What is the efficency of a phase cooling? Watts in vs watts removed?
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