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Cut plexiglass

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
hey all

I got a sheet of plexiglass which I like to transform in a nice laptop cooler for my 17" laptop.
Now I have tried to cut it before with a saw and tried with a electric one (srry don't know the english word for it). But as I expected it just melted right back in place.

Now how can I cut it, or do I need to cool it with water while cutting with a simple metal saw? or do I need a special one.

BTW: it is just a bit to thick to cut with a knife, it would take ages :S (3mm/4mm)
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post #2 of 12
If its only 3-4mm then you can score it with a knife or razor and just snap it. If it needs to be more accurate then you need to use a jigsaw like this with a fine tooth blade.




Hope this helps.
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post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
Yeah it helped alot thanks I was thinking about snapping it myself, and actually tried it but it bent to much ... though I just realised that a vile has been invented for something

a jigsaw ,hat was then word I was looking for , it didn't have small teeth.

Thanks alot

EDIT: + 1 rep
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post #4 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by llama16 View Post
Yeah it helped alot thanks I was thinking about snapping it myself, and actually tried it but it bent to much ... though I just realised that a vile has been invented for something

a jigsaw ,hat was then word I was looking for , it didn't have small teeth.

Thanks alot

EDIT: + 1 rep
Glad to help! Small teeth and go slow so it doesnt melt again LOL.
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post #5 of 12
jigsaw words. also, a circular hand saw works too! i believe syrillian uses a table saw. key point on all of them is to use a high tooth blade.. jigsaw 24tpi+, circular/table saw, like 80 teeth..
 
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post #6 of 12
I've used jigsaws and various circular saws (including a table saw) to cut acrylic. For the jigsaws metal cutting blades work best and for any circular saw you'll need at least a finishing blade or preferably a veneer/siding blade (much higher tooth count than a finishing blade. I've used finishing blades for cutting acrylic and it would take a bit of sanding smooth prior to polishing.
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post #7 of 12
if you have a dremel they make cutoff disks for plastics. I havent had a chance to try them tho, but I might soon. a scroll saw works well on low-med spm settings as well
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post #8 of 12
When you guys are cutting the plastic, do you use masking tape or some other protector to keep the skid from scratching the material?
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post #9 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aardobard View Post
When you guys are cutting the plastic, do you use masking tape or some other protector to keep the skid from scratching the material?
Yes, and it also lets you draw where your going to cut.
Most plexi comes with a paper backing on both sides also (prevents scuffs and scratches from the time it leave the factory till you get it), so no need to tape it.
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post #10 of 12
try and get acrylics that are backed in paper backing on both sides (chemcast comes to mind)(stay away from acrylics backed in only thin plastic) and put blue painters tape on both sides of where the cut will happen. Believe it or not, the blue tape actually cools the blade, moreso than without it. I heard someone say this once and didnt buy it, but then I did a test with my scroll saw. I found the SPM setting that would cause slight melting on a piece with paper backer but no blue tape. Then I added blue tape to both sides, and what do you know? no more melting
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