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Sleeper: Watercooled Lian Li A70b - Page 2

post #11 of 605
Whoaa.... nice one.... subbd
Xtreme-Station
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Xtreme-Station
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post #12 of 605
sleeved looks great! wanna tell me how to make that makeshift tool?
 
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post #13 of 605
im looking to do the same for my setup some day when i have some extra cash.
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post #14 of 605
them there's lotsa sleeving
looks good tho
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post #15 of 605
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the comments folks.

edit:

I forgot to mention, I bought my sleeving from McMaster-Carr. Do a search for "cable sleeving" > Sleeving > Expandable Mesh > Easy Cut. This stuff is WOLRDS better than the stuff you get in a standard kit. So much easier to work with and looks much better to boot. 1/8 inch comes in lots of 100 feet for about 25 bucks, and its worth every penny. A 100 foot spool should be enough to do your whole PSU. I didn't dip into my second roll until I got into my fan cables.

/edit.


Iandroo: As for the tool, I just used a spare flathead screwdriver bit I had laying around. I didn't take any pictures of the process, but this is how I did it:

First, I clamped my rotary tool (dremel) to the table with a fiberglass cut off disc attached, creating a makeshift mini bench grinder. Then I just ground away until I had what I needed. It took a lot of back and forth testing with a spare cable to get it "just right". The bit heats up quickly, so I had a cup of water on the bench with me to cool it off frequently while I was working. (Needless to say, but safety goggles are a must for this operation as well).

I actually made a couple of them before I got to one that worked well for me. Here's a couple of pointers: the width of a reinforced cut off while is actually a tiny hair too narrow for what you need. What I found worked best was to cut the center portion out first, and to actually make a very very very shallow "V" shape cut out. I'm talking almost imperceptibly shallow, and just barely wider than the cut of a disc at the "root" end. Then chew off the outside edges until you have two nearly paper thin prongs. I used a small file to help finish it off.

When done, ever so carefully with a pair of needle nose, bend the prongs of the shallow "V" inwards very very slightly. The end result is a very shallow bow to each of the prongs. Tool steel is very rigid, but it is metal, and if you bend it too much or too often, it will break, so be careful with that step. When you're done, you should be able to slip the tool in easily, and the wire should slide right out with a little jiggle.

I did my 24 pin and both 6 pins with it, and it seems to be holding up just fine.

Hope that helps!
Edited by Warfarin88 - 12/22/08 at 5:08am
post #16 of 605
Wow it looks great! Subscribed .
So you used that tool to get the pins out of the connectors to sleeve them?
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Sager NP5165
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post #17 of 605
Thread Starter 
Yup nate.

You just slip the two prongs into the molex on either side of the pin. The prongs depress the metal tabs that hold the pin in place, and the wires just slip right out with a little wiggle.

It's really as easy as that.

They sell tools that do the same thing, but I didn't have one, and I read that they tend to break anywho. I'm not sure what those are made of, but I don't expect to ever break my version. It's pretty sturdy.
post #18 of 605
Man, the look of the cables all being individually sleeved is awesome, particularly the 24-pin. Very, very well done, without being showy or flashy like some cases. I love it. Rep+
post #19 of 605
Tell me when you're ready to sell that screwdriver bit

I've just been inspired to buy the same sleeving as you.
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post #20 of 605
yeah that sleeving looks awesome i might have to do that.

oh and what is the sleeving size that you got?
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