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Sleeper: Watercooled Lian Li A70b - Page 19

post #181 of 605
as always, very nicely done! i love teh xiggy fans too. i have 2x 120s and 1x 80mm for a special build.
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Hephae
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post #182 of 605
Thread Starter 
Thanks naf.

I have another update, but first I wanted to publicize my response to a PM, just in case anyone else out there had similar questions. My logs kinda run together in my own brain, so I have a feeling I gloss over some stuff.

The question pertained to how I bent the metal I use, and what material would I recommend for a scratch build. This was my response:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warfarin88 View Post
hiyas

I mostly used a brake to bend the metal. Before I get into how I do it, let me rant on the brake a sec.

I used a very cheap brake. The cheapest they had a McMaster Carr. It's made of aluminum, it flexes, and I strongly wouldn't recommend it. I haven't investigated this yet, but for what they charge plus shipping, I would be very surprised if you couldn't have a local metal shop create a much better one for the same or less money. Literally all it is is two pieces of hinged angle iron with a beveled edge flat bar to clamp down the piece with. Have the shop weld a couple leverage handles on it and a couple small feet to mount it to something, and you're done.

K. now that that's done. To help compensate for the crappy brake, I "score" the backside (interior of the bend) of my panels with a dremel cut of disc to help the process out. It takes a steady hand, but a good straight groove with the rotary wheel about halfway through the thickness of the panel really works well.

The other tool I use is a hand seamer. I got mine at the local big box hardware store. I think Lowe's. They come in different widths, but I got the biggest they had, which was 3 inches. That comes in real handy for small bits, and when the piece is clamped down well, it works better than my brake. On the latest iteration of that rad frame, I used 2" tabs to join panels wherever I could, simple because they were easier to manage with the seamer than the bender.

As far as material, I recommend 1/16 (or 1.5mm if you're not US) aluminum. 6061 and 3003 are good alloys, but if you're not sure, as long as it generally called "multi purpose", you're good to go. Stay away from the purer "electrical grade" stuff. It's often cheaper, but its a little too soft.

I've been trying to get a little more "how to" worked into my log as I go along, so stay tuned. Hopefully I can give you some more pointers.
Hopefully that's helpful to someone out there.

Anywho, need to upload pics. Back in a few.
post #183 of 605
Thread Starter 
K, this update is dedicated to Cattlerustler and his greenie poo build. His use of a jig to keep holes he was drilling uniform got me thinking, and MAN did it pay off. I owe you one Cattle.

I made this out of a piece of scrap from another project:



It has the holes for my HD caddy remount on one end, and two holes for the assembly of my rad frame on the other. I actually used a "hard" template for my rad cut outs as well.

Here's a shot of both:



The rad template is a definite keeper. It has the correct 15mm fan hole spacing, and center holes for a 4.5 inch holesaw, and I can tell already its going to get a lot of mileage.

Anyways, the lip on the jig keeps my distance from the edge consistent, and the holes keep the spacing correct. I measure and mark where the tabs are, and then clamp it down and drill it like so with a 3/16 inch bit:





In those shots, I had both pieces taped together and drilled both simultaneously. In theory, this isn't necessary; using the jig, both should be able to drilled out separately.

After I finished the pilots, I took the pieces that had tabs, and enlarged the holes to 1/4 inch with a step bit to accept the M4 clinch nuts (that's tapping fluid in the shot, lubricant is a must for drilling and cutting metal):



The step bit works perfectly for this, as its design is self centering. Fluted bits can still bite and wander a bit. So far, the step bit has remained true for me.

To attach the clinch nuts, I don't have a press, so I needed to improvise. I used a steel M4 hex nut, a small fender washer, and a 7mm socket to do this:





All you do is finger tighten the assembly to make sure the clinch nut is properly aligned with the hole, and then cinch it down flush with the ratchet. It really works a treat.

A word of caution here: don't use aluminum nuts, and don't use socket cap allen heads. The allen sockets tend to strip when a lot of torque is applied, and aluminum threaded units will snap on you. A great many lian li thumbscrews and a couple of stand offs gave their lives to this project before I sorted that out and went to the hardware store to pick up a couple 50 cent packets of metric bolts.

That's it for now folks. I need to put my separate drilling theories to the test and get the holes drilled into the chassis to mount this thing.
Edited by Warfarin88 - 2/20/09 at 5:04pm
post #184 of 605
Quote:
Originally Posted by nafljhy View Post

What program did you use to do all these amazing drawnings there freaking amazing.
    
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post #185 of 605
Thread Starter 
http://sketchup.google.com/

That's the 3D stuff. I used photoshop to draw the arrows.
post #186 of 605
oooh looking good war. its coming along perfect for watercooling.
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post #187 of 605

great work as always Warf, and cheers on the template stuff. Sometimes we have to spend time forming our own specialty tools/items in order to achieve our intended results (as you well know) even if it takes away time from the actual project. In the end it pays for itself in accuracy, and reusability. cheers. mod on brother
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post #188 of 605
Thread Starter 
Hallelujah Cattle.

I got some mileage out of that little jig this morning. To compensate for the way the frames are offset into the case to allow for the side panels to slide on and off freely, I needed to add a new pair of holes to my jig:



I actually used the old pair of holes to drill a new pair of holes in a different piece of scrap so that I could use it as a jig for my jig just so that my spacing would remain consistent.

I did separately drill the initial tie in for each frame member, and then bolted it into place. I used the farther set of holes for the case chassis, and the nearer set for the internal frame piece. That way I was sure my spacing from the edge would be where I wanted it.

After I got a corner in place however, I reverted to drilling through chassis and new frame tab together. I used a bit of wood to assist the clamping process and make sure the tab didn't wander when the drill bit punched through the first layer of metal:



For the final pair of tabs on the back of the lower piece, I needed to offset another half an inch to account for the mobo tray. I also had to mangle my jig to make room for some rivets and keep the template flush to the chassis. No worries though, the jigs work was nearly finished:



10 pairs of screw holes later, I was done, and the whole thing dropped into place like it was meant to be there. Twenty 3/16" holes into two seperate planes for twenty different M4 bolts, and they all lined up perfectly.











Tolerances were tight, but careful measurements paid off, and everything lined up just as it should in the end:





So, I'm finally back to where I was a week ago lol. It probably seems like a lot of work for nothing, but the new internal frame uses only four pieces, the old one used nine. In addition, the first frame had 38 bolts holding it together, but only 12 tie in points to the primary chassis, only four of which were M4 (the rest were smaller M3's).

This new version uses 28 bolts, all M4, but it has 5 fewer pieces to hold together, and it ties into the chassis at twenty points. Needless to say, its much more solid.

Now I'm off again. I need to sort the pump / res tray for up top.

Also, I tossed out a powder coating question over in the case mod forum, if anyone has any experience there. (I want to know what I can use to fill the various unused holes in the chassis before I have it coated)
post #189 of 605
what?? "...for nothing" u say.... no my friend
that's a UNIQUE piece of art, right there

that's a Killer case...

it's a beauty...
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post #190 of 605
well war, remember... sometimes we gotta take a step backwards in order to make a huge leap forward.

i think its great that you've gotten to use fewer pieces. it defiinetly looks solid and absolutely beautiful!

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