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[Official] Cooler Master ATCS 840 Owners Club - Page 146

post #1451 of 4407
A'ite not a problem brotha. Sometimes the road not taken is best not taken for a reason. and we all know what a pain in the butt cable management is.
I ran out of my Shin Etsu X23-7783D thermal compound. Just knocked on my friend's door (next door neighbor) who has it. Dumb-ass just woke up after he & his roomie had fun at the bar last night and brought a couple of chicks home.
When the door opened, everyone were in their undies LOL

Once he freshens up & comes over we'll work on the rest of the stuff for today. I must question him if it really is shin etsu in that tube hhahahahhaahahah
BTW, I ran 3DMark Vantage and PCMark Vantage on the stock setup a few days ago. I have the screenshots saved, will post sometime.
Edited by maverickpk - 5/1/10 at 11:26am
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post #1452 of 4407
Anyone here uses a heat gun for their heatshrinks?
I'm looking at 2 models and wondering which one to get. Both cost the same
1) 320W motor with 650 F temp
2) 1200W motor with 2 temp settings - 750F and 1000F 4100BTUs of heat.

Any advice on which is better for the heatshrink. Obviously don't want to burn the heatshrink into obscurity.

EDIT:
Found my own answer. 950F is going to burn it and the components around it. I'll get the 350F one.

Edited by maverickpk - 5/1/10 at 11:50am
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post #1453 of 4407
I have a question for all of you out here who use fan controllers. Do you guys cut out the cables or use them as is.
The reason I ask is: I'm using NZXT Sentry 2 which has 5 fan controllers. Each of those controller cables has a 3pin, a molex male and a molex female. I'm only using the 3-pin ones to connect all my fans rendering the molex ones absolutely useless. They are just dangling around in there and is causing a nuisance in terms of cable management. You can't use them to connect to anything else anyway. I wished they made those cables modular:sigh:

What's the best approach to get rid of them?
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post #1454 of 4407
Quote:
Originally Posted by ehume View Post
When you have time could you post a pic of the circuit board where the resistor used to be? And what fan did you mod? And what rpm is it running now?
@ehume -
I'm not quite sure I understood you when you talked about circuit board. I just use a resistor wire like this one to power the fans. So instead of delivering 12v to the fan, you are delivering 7v. The fan I use for my exhaust is the Scythe Ultra Kaze 120mm fan. Its rated speed is 3000rpm. When I use the resistor the speed will be down to around 1800-2000rpm. That fan is pretty noisy though. I have a spare 120mm shakeproof/anti-vibration washer and a set of rubber fan mounts. I'll put them onto this fan today. It will probably cut down a decibel or two, I hope.
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post #1455 of 4407
maverickpk - I misunderstood what you did. I thought you had somehow penetrated the fan's inner sanctum, where a high speed fan is converted to a low speed fan, presumably by resistors.
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post #1456 of 4407
Quote:
Originally Posted by ehume View Post
maverickpk - I misunderstood what you did. I thought you had somehow penetrated the fan's inner sanctum, where a high speed fan is converted to a low speed fan, presumably by resistors.
HAhahah you are expecting too much out of me my man. For someone who has put 2 big dents by kicking with brute force into my old case from the troubles caused by cable management.
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post #1457 of 4407
Quote:
Originally Posted by maverickpk View Post
@ehume -
I'm not quite sure I understood you when you talked about circuit board. I just use a resistor wire like this one to power the fans. So instead of delivering 12v to the fan, you are delivering 7v. The fan I use for my exhaust is the Scythe Ultra Kaze 120mm fan. Its rated speed is 3000rpm. When I use the resistor the speed will be down to around 1800-2000rpm. That fan is pretty noisy though. I have a spare 120mm shakeproof/anti-vibration washer and a set of rubber fan mounts. I'll put them onto this fan today. It will probably cut down a decibel or two, I hope.
I once had the NZXT Sentry 1, it had a similar setup. What you can do is just cut off the molex's and heatshrink the wires and pinch the heatshrink closed at the end. Or you could get a junction block and wire your fans that way. Which ever way is easier for you.

I use a 6 channel rheobus, it has only 3 pin female adaptors, and takes up far less space than the wiring for the Sentry did.
post #1458 of 4407
Yeaah I think I'm going to cut them off, use electrical tape to tape the ends and then put heatshrink on top of it. I don't like them handing around in the case when I have no use for it. It's high time molexes get replaced with something better. There have been plenty of innovations giving us better alternatives in other areas, why not with molexes. They are just too fugly.
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post #1459 of 4407
So long as you cap the end off of the heatshrink, it should be more than sufficient in protecting the bare lead(s). I dont think electrical tape will be necessary. I apply the heatshrink half way on the lead and half way off, then clamp the end with a pair of needle nose pliers, after its been shrunk an its still hot. Give that a shot, if you dont like it, throw some electrical tape in there as well
post #1460 of 4407
Can I be part of this club? pretty please?

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