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[Official] Cooler Master ATCS 840 Owners Club - Page 147

post #1461 of 4392
Looking pretty DJ. What are ur temps like?
Also, I couldn't help but notice that brown tinge on the top metal bar. Did you run out of paint? Or was that an attempt to replicate what samsung does with their dual colored bezels on LCD TVs??
Edited by maverickpk - 5/2/10 at 9:05pm
Blue Lightning
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Blue Lightning
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post #1462 of 4392
mid 30s idle - 68 under IBT/LINX
ambient of 24 - not sure im 100% pleased with it... might try a couple of reseats over the next few days
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Digital Mistress
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post #1463 of 4392
What TIM are you using?
My plan was to reseat yesterday but realized me and my friend both ran out of Shin Etsu X23 7783D. Using the CF2 that was shipped with the venomous for right now. I'm yet to measure the temps with this new TIM. Right now I'm working on cutting off all the extra and useless molex connectors on the fan controllers.
I've also placed an order with GBR(on pcper forums) for 2 tubes of shin etsu. Once I receive that I will be reseating again.

I'm still not there in trying to understand what the best application method is. GBR's guide talks abt heating the heatsink contact surface, heating the TIM tube, putting multiple dabs both on the HS and CPU and spread it evenly using a plastic card or cling wrap. With this method though, there is still the question of air bubbles being trapped 'd think. I used this method last time with shin etsu and I measured 35-36 idle and 54-55 full load at stock speeds. I wasn't happy with those. I was trying to get them to 30-32 stock and abt 50 full load which is definitely possible.
I will try the Bb sized dab on the center of the core or heatsink and let the HS weight and pressure mounting system spread it out. That way I think there wouldn't be an air bubble scenario(I think), but the only problem with that method is that it wouldn't spread evenly towards all corners.
I guess this is a classic example of too many spices spoiling the curry.
Edited by maverickpk - 5/2/10 at 9:05pm
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Blue Lightning
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post #1464 of 4392
I am using MX-3 - I would have gotten shin etsu if it had been carried by the same place my WC stuff came from(frankly I wasn't about to put in a special order just for TIM). I use the BB style application. This time I put more on as the skinee-labs review of the stuff showed a marked improvement when more MX3 was applied.

I think I will use less next time and see what happens - if it gets worse I'll redo again with more.

I figure no matter how much you read - it only gives you a good place to start. After that it's a matter of tinkering your specific set up. If it were easy, I doubt it would be nearly as fun as it is.

Oh as for the brown tint: I think that is the guide light for the camera - the bar is indeed 100% black. My photo skills are weak and I just took quick shots. Later this week I plan on giving the rig a proper photo shoot: Light boxes, manual settings, back drop. It should make the pics a little better (even if my camera is just your basic point n shoot).
Edited by DJLiquid - 5/2/10 at 10:29am
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post #1465 of 4392
GBR ships them for free in the US. 15$ for 2 tubes. That's the only thing that makes it a special order
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Blue Lightning
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post #1466 of 4392
Using the dot method, in conjuction with good a mounting system and good pressure is the best way and it will yield the best temps. It may not cover the entire IHS, but you dont really need to considering the dies are closest to the center of the IHS. Ive seen all the other methods, and it seems that anything other than the dot method with good pressure and a mounting system will either give you air bubbles, or overflow.

Here is a video thats good material, someone actually took the time to try all the different methods and used Lexan to prove a point. Check it out.

YouTube- How Thermal Compound Spreads (MX-2 Edition)
Edited by Mattb2e - 5/2/10 at 1:35pm
post #1467 of 4392
Figured I would add a few photos with the new setup. Went from a P5K Pro, with an E8400 to an Asus X48 Rampage Formula, with a Q9550. Added some UV Sata cables, and cleaned up the wiring a bit. Still looks messy to me though, plan on getting a 24 pin power extension so I can route the motherboard power through the management hole


One other update is going from a NZXT Sentry to a Lamptron FC-2, I believe it compliments the scheme of my case nicely.
post #1468 of 4392
how does the GPU box work temp wise? I never bothered to throw it on
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Digital Mistress
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post #1469 of 4392
My GPU box paired with a 1900rpm S-Flex dropped temps on my 4890 by 3-5C* under load.
post #1470 of 4392
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJLiquid View Post
how does the GPU box work temp wise? I never bothered to throw it on
Being that this case is negative pressure, you almost need it on there. If you dont use it, the air that is exhausted is cycled back in through the vent located next to the expansion slots in the back. With the expansion duct installed, it helps remove the air from any gpu's you may have installed, and wont recycle warm air back into the case.
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