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[Official] Cooler Master ATCS 840 Owners Club - Page 219

post #2181 of 4392
Quote:
Originally Posted by mru View Post
Do you have a fan controller? (Benifit: 4-6 temp gauges!)
Cooling is essentially a trial&error exercise.
But there are some basic (physics) laws.

The very first one is:
In an open case there is no airflow!!!!! Device temperature can only be achieved by direct airmovement to/from the component.

In a closed case:
Layout a basic cooling strategy BEFORE assembly. Where to locate components to benefit most from the air circulation that can be achieved (theoretically).
Then it is becomes a question of experimenting. Check temperatures at many components and places. Then start changing fan speeds and watch temps change (or not). Reversing air direction can also lead to some surprising results.
This is a very time consuming exercise, which remains tolerable if you approach it methodically.

That the PCI fan box doesn't do great things should be fairly obvious:
1. most of the opening area is blocked by sheet metal
2. the air needs to move around the corner.
Which in an open case results in zero benefit.

You would have to reverse your approach.
Your approach: remove as much warm air.
Better approach: supply as much fresh air to the graphics card(s), and use the rear fan box to help remove the air.

Hope that helps a bit.
Yes i have the Zalman mfc2.

http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/...ad.asp?Idx=209

It has 4 temp sensors but i havent used them. Dont know how to install them properly.

What do you mean by "direct airmovemet"? So an open case, means there's no need for fans, since the heat is going to be dissipated directly into the ambient.

BTW My True Black Supports 2 Fans, which i have alread installed. But which one is most important. Is it the one facing the rear part?

And a final question as to the cpus. Why is it that different cores have different temperatures and how are they affected? Core#2 always seems to run hotter, and core#3 is the coolest of them all. And this never changes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by boredgunner View Post
They do? According to the specs these 230mm fans do 700 RPM/110 CFM/19 DBA.
Where are these specs mentioned? I sai that 230 runs 900 rpm according to the link posted above.

http://www.sundialmicro.com/cooler_m...2130_1766.html

Isnt this the fan of the 840?
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post #2182 of 4392
Quote:
Originally Posted by therock003 View Post
BTW My True Black Supports 2 Fans, which i have alread installed. But which one is most important. Is it the one facing the rear part?
If you only use one fan, I suppose you'd want to keep the one that pushes the cold air inside the heatsink. But it's always a bit better to have 2 in push/pull.

Quote:
Originally Posted by therock003 View Post
And a final question as to the cpus. Why is it that different cores have different temperatures and how are they affected? Core#2 always seems to run hotter, and core#3 is the coolest of them all. And this never changes.
A small temperature difference between the cores is normal. If it's like a 10 degree difference it could be that your TIM has spread unevenly and one of the cores is making less contact.
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post #2183 of 4392
@therock003
Installing temp sensors:
In the parts bag should have been at least four adhesive strips, with which you stick the temp sensors to whatever you want the temperature to be "sensed". Example: to the top metal part of a hard disc, the upper side of the graphic process heat sink plate (you may have to remove the plastic shell), or just anywhere in the case where you want to check the air temperature (in front of rear exhaust fan to check the hot air temp blowing out of the case).

The Zalman mfc2 is great, it is the only controller I know that can read the powerconsumption of your system and the special cable for the CPU fan is quite useful, too.

With "direct airmovement" I mean that you need to have a fan blowing at the warm/hot component directly, since there really is no airflow in the case when it is open. The further away a fan is from the component needing cooling, the less air is moved at the component because the airpressure generated by the fan is lost. Think of a bucket of water with 5 gallons of water that you dump on the floor. Now take the same 5 gallons of water and send them with the equal pressure through a half inch hose. Got it?

As for your true black:
With adequate airflow you may get away with no fan, since the rear exhaust fan and the top 230 will do quite a bit to remove heat.
If only one fan, it is -in general- best practice to blow air.
Best result is achieved by using the intended two fan method, one blowing and and sucking.
You can test this yourself: play a dvd, run a video on you tube, and play your favorite game. Do this without fan, with one fan blowing, and with both fans running. In between each, read out the temps of the CPU. You can use the taskmanager, by making the window bigger you can observe a larger time span.
It doesn't matter that the task managers temp reading is not accurate, because you are only interested in relative temp (temp change). And you will see a temp difference of at least 20°C

As four your CPU cores having different temps:
that is normal: the workload of the CPUs are mostly not evenly distributed, but you have one application running on core 1 and another app is running on core 2. Depending how much the core needs to work, its core will be cooler/hotter than the other.

As for the fan spec:
There are conflicting infos. My assumption is that the ATCS fan runs 700rpm and the Cosmos runds at 900.......
     
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post #2184 of 4392
Push/Pull Sounds right guys. Even if i had both of them running, i would be doing a good job, cause both of them were in the push position. I guess i should put the front in the pull position, and the rear (the one that faces the rear stock fan) on the push position since the stock is used to push as well right?

BTW you're right 230's are 700 rpm according to the manual, so the link above should be a Cosmos fan. I wonder what the cfm is though for 700, if 900 pushes 150 CFM. What i like about these monster fans, is that at low rpm they're quite (19dbA) and push so much air (150CFM), in comparison with the panaflos that need 2750rpm (44dbA) to push 114CFM!

Although as for my no fans question, i meant in regards with the (open) case, not the cpu fans. Since my heatsink is passive it does need the fans, or at least one to work properly. But without taking a push/pull approach are the other fans really ncessary?

I mean what's the use of the bottom fan and the 2 in front of the HDD, when my case is open? I could get away with it, even i had them switched off i guess.

As for the cores, i understand that it's logical not to have same temps, but it puzzles that every time i take measurements the second always runs hotter, and the third always run cooler. Regels suggestion sounds more close to home. That maybe its the TIM placement. I guess if it was spread perfectly even, and then, running processes that distribute load as evenly as possibly should allow for an ideal situation of even temperature cores right?

My Zalman may be sparkly like that, Wattage meter, cool display, temperature probes etc, but i guess i should better have gone for a couple of Rhoebus for better fan support. To be honest i got it for the wattage consumption, but after a while you get used it. The values doesnt change much. I'm something like 200+ Watts.
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post #2185 of 4392
CPU Temp:
Yes, of course regel is (also) right! Little trick: next time you start your pc with absolutely nothing running, check the core temps. If you still see a discrepancy, check the TIM.

Zalman:
The Watt meter only helps if you sometimes just surf (CPU almost idle), play a serious game, or overclock and push the consumption to the beyond what your supply can deliver....

General fan question: in an open case, fans are not much use unless direct airmovement.
(Like you are doing with your CPU cooler.)
     
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post #2186 of 4392
Quote:
Originally Posted by therock003 View Post

Where are these specs mentioned? I sai that 230 runs 900 rpm according to the link posted above.

http://www.sundialmicro.com/cooler_m...2130_1766.html

Isnt this the fan of the 840?
The Cooler Master official websites have the 700 RPM/110 CFM/19 DBA spec.

http://www.coolermaster.com/product....category_id=18
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post #2187 of 4392
Quote:
Originally Posted by boredgunner View Post
The Cooler Master official websites have the 700 RPM/110 CFM/19 DBA spec.

http://www.coolermaster.com/product....category_id=18
And the same website shows the 230 Fan of the Cosmos S to have the 230 x 30 mm fan x 1 / 900 rpm / 150 CFM spec (no DBA mentioned).

Unfortunately no part numbers....
     
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post #2188 of 4392
For those that need to have that open case the absolute best way to cool your entire case can be had for as little as $20 if you just go out and buy a cheap box fan. People that live in hotter climates, old houses, no air conditioning etc. this is a cheap alternative for added airflow on those severe weather days. No need to worry about noise. If it is hot enough in your house to worry about cooking your system you already have fans going and one more will not make a difference.
post #2189 of 4392
So I checked myself by hooking up one of the 230mm fans of the ATCS on my fan controller and it does indeed run at 700rpm.
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post #2190 of 4392
I got rid of my two top 230mm fans since I felt it interrupted airflow. I'll be getting some high-end fans to get some decent airflow/cooling going for my ATCS 840 since my current Sanyo Denki San Ace fans just aren't cutting it for the summer.

3 of these for my push/pull CPU as well as the exhaust...


1 of these for my extra center HD bay intake...


I've only just heard of the damage a Venomous-X can do to the socket (from all the ranting about the new Corsair H70 being released). I just hope that my high temperatures are from my high ambient from summer, overclock (4.4GHz + HT), voltage (1.44v), and no decent intake passing through the CPU (fans seem to just aim for the GPUs. So I'll do a thorough check/clean once they arrive.
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Beyerdynamic Premium Tesla Hi-Fi T70 Headphones Blue Yeti Pro Microphone Elgato Game Capture HD60 Pro Areca ARC-1260 RAID Controller Card 
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2x Lamptron FC-2 Fan Controller Lian Li EX-H34B Hot Swap Cage CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD UPS D-Link Amplifi Cloud Router 5700 
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Logitech HD Pro Webcam C910 AmazonBasics 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub Saitek ST290 Pro Joystick 
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