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[Official] Cooler Master ATCS 840 Owners Club - Page 399

post #3981 of 4392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggy88 View Post

On the top you should have about 110mm of space. So 64mm will have room for Push or Pull, but no Push-Pull.
That is down to the support that supports the back of the motherboard tray, down to the top of the motherboard there should be around 115mm or so so if you remove the support you should have room for 64mm rad + Push-Pull. (Not sure how this effects the "rigidly" of the motherboard tray.

Really thanks! thumb.gif
For push/pull config it's not a great problem because I'm thinking to use only a pull config, with fans to the top extracting heat!
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PissaMokki
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post #3982 of 4392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pissa View Post

Really thanks! thumb.gif
For push/pull config it's not a great problem because I'm thinking to use only a pull config, with fans to the top extracting heat!

Alright, then you should have plenty space, the 64+25 will only be 89mm so you should have plenty of space to work with. It was quite i squeeze to get a 54mm rad + push-pull up there, had ~5mm to work on and i also have a 120mm in the back with a bleed screw so i have around ~0.5mm between the top 360 and the rear 120


700

Here you can see the space between the top and the support:
700

That is a 54mm Hw-Labs GTX360 with 25mm GT-15 in Push-Pull so a total of 104mm.
post #3983 of 4392
Thanks for the photos and for your help! wink.gif

And congratulations for you system! biggrin.gif

I think I'm gonna buy that radiator, I read some reviews and it seems to be very good, not the best one but good, I want only to cool the cpu so I think it's definitely sufficient....
PissaMokki
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PissaMokki
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post #3984 of 4392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pissa View Post

Thanks for the photos and for your help! wink.gif
And congratulations for you system! biggrin.gif
I think I'm gonna buy that radiator, I read some reviews and it seems to be very good, not the best one but good, I want only to cool the cpu so I think it's definitely sufficient....

No problem, it's a never ending project. I've order another GTX360 that will be swapped for the MCP320. I've also been talking a lot to Mindchill, everybody that know's his work knows what this is about wink.gif so we will see how this ends thumb.gif

I would just go and buy a good 360 strait away, as soon as you get into the whole world of watercooling things pick up pretty quick.
post #3985 of 4392
Yeah I agree with you!

Please post new photos when you'll end your rig! biggrin.gif
PissaMokki
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PissaMokki
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post #3986 of 4392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pissa View Post

Yeah I agree with you!
Please post new photos when you'll end your rig! biggrin.gif

I will, most of the pictures and updates will be posted in the build log in my Sig, so keep an eye out there.
post #3987 of 4392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggy88 View Post

I will, most of the pictures and updates will be posted in the build log in my Sig, so keep an eye out there.

Wow just saw it! drool.gif
PissaMokki
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PissaMokki
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post #3988 of 4392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pissa View Post

Wow just saw it! drool.gif

Thanks, looks Ok now, but have a lot of things to do:

Sleeve some more cables, Swap the MCP320 for the GTX360, mount some ssd's behind the 5.25" bay to make more room for harddrives down in the stock harddrive bays. As i said im also looking at some custom TEC's from Mindchill so depending on how that works i might add some TEC's to chill the water.
post #3989 of 4392
So, as many of you know, I landed me an atcs840 for my new build. I had to get pretty creative with running hard drive wires due to the limited space on the hard drive rack. So for starters my power supply is a Corsair tx750w version 1. If you are not fimilar with this PSU, the wires are sleeved in bundles for each rail i.e: 24pin is sleeved by itself, the 4pin molex rail is sleeved by itself, etc. Also the wires are extremely stiff and don't bend very well. They are also very short for this case, definitely NOT designed for a case of this size.

So rather than having a whole bunch of hodge podge wires running along the bottom of the case going to the back for the hdd rack, as well that they wouldn't bend into the shape needed without stressing the connectors on the hdd's so I can put the back panel on, i purchased some splitters and ran them off of the sata power connectors to the hdd's. Below is some pictures of my handy work, however my proudest moment, was squeezing one of those sata power cables through the gap between the top of the front fan and the 5 1/4" drive rack. I tried to get the best pictures possible, but its kind of hard to see. So some creative ideas for you folks! I'm going to also add this to my build log as follow up if you wish to check out my build log smile.gifthumb.gif

Before I got started:
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700

Notice in this picture how much of a stretch it is for the power wires to reach the HDD's and I loose one of the connectors just trying to get there. Now also note the massive bend in the wires just to get them to plug in. Imagine if you will all six drive ways filled with drives and each having a bend like that just to power the bloody things! eek.gifthumbsdownsmileyanim.gif:wheee:
700

And here is my pride and joy. Note how it's slid between that gap. It took me 30 minutes of cursing, fighting, cutting my hand, cursing again, and wiggling to finally get it to go through that gap. The first picture is looking from the back side of the HDD stack, to the front side of the HDD Stack. The second picture is of what the final result was after adding the splitters, electrical tape, and securing everything down power wise. The third picture is how things are starting to shape up using a top down view. Note that if I were to have used my actual PSU wires, they would have stuck out from the back of the case approx 1/2"-1" preventing the back panel from being placed on. The data cables have since been adjusted and snugged down to prevent them from sticking out so much. The fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth pictures shows the front of the HDD rack showing the power cable routed through the opening. The ninth and tenth pictures is an attempt at showing you just how tight of a squeeze it is getting cables through there.

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Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 132-CK-NF78 NVIDIA GeForce GTX 260 Crucial Technology  
RAMRAMRAMHard Drive
Crucial Technology  Crucial Technology  Crucial Technology  Western Digital Caviar Black 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Western Digital Caviar Blue Western Digital Caviar Black Western Digital Caviar Green Maxtor 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOptical Drive
Maxtor Western Digital External Asus Slim DVD/CD Writer Samsung DVD/CD Writer 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
Stock Windows 7 Pro Dell 2208WFP 22" Widescreen Dell 2208WFP 22" Widescreen 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Microsoft Wireless Corsair Enthusiast 750watt Thermaltake Armour Microsoft Wireless 5000 Laser 
Mouse PadAudio
Rocketfish Speed SoundBlaster Fatality x-pand 5.1 dolby surround 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel Core i5-2500k EVGA Z68 FTW 160-SB-E689-K2 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 ... EVGA SuperClocked 012-P3-1573-AR GeForce GTX 57... EVGA GTX260 for Physx 
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G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin... SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC128D/AM 2.5" 128GB SAT... SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC064D/AM 2.5" 64GB SATA... Western Digital Caviar Green WD6400AAC 
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Western Digital Caviar Black 500Gb Samsung External DVD drive Asus Slim USB Powered DVD Burner Drive *cough* STOCK *cough* 
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Corsair Enthusiast 750watt v1 Coolmaster ATCS 840 *sexy beast* Microsoft Wireless 5000 Laser Rocketfish Speed 
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Creative Soundblaster X-Fi Fatality 5.1 Soundcard Logitech 5.1 Surround sound system (forget whic... Kingston 7 Port Powered USB Hub Gear Head 7 Port Powered USB Hub 
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post #3990 of 4392
Hi All,

Does any body know where I can get alternative part or original one for ATCS 840 front bezel cover?
if you let me know it will be great thanks.

thanks and have a nice weekend.smile.gif
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