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[Official] Cooler Master ATCS 840 Owners Club - Page 416

post #4151 of 4396
Thanks for the welcoming and info. After rethinking my air flow, I took the inside filters off last night, added another fan on the bottom to push air into the case. Here's a picture of the current air flow design. I bastardized this pic from an old CM add for the case...needed something like this for a paper I'm also writing about this build.


I've also spent most of the day doing some cable management with zip ties, some small black clips and yes, those great white zips that came with my case a few years ago! And you're right, it takes time. And I see you too have Cooler Master's 4-in-3 hdd cage...that was a life saver for me. And thanks for the pics...I've been eying those individual sleeved cables for months...maybe I'll break down and order some this week...they seem to make cable management a tad easier.

I just wish it didn't take me so long to do this "simple" rebuild, but it's paid off since I've met some great people willing to share their knowledge. But I have a deadline to have the build totally completed by the second week of this month!! And as you can see, I've got a very long way to go still.

Will post pictures of the finished CM...hope it's soon.
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post #4152 of 4396
@pvp309rcp

I'll be waiting smile.gif
Edited by StevenT - 5/8/13 at 1:06pm
post #4153 of 4396
For sure. I'm hoping start or get it done on Sunday (all my parts should be delivered by Friday). It would suck to have that situation where you take apart your computer and find that it stops working when you put it back together again.

These are the steps I'm taking... (Click to show)
-Disconnect cables
-Remove all my expansion cards
-Remove all cables connected to the motherboard/tray
-Remove motherboard from tray itself
-Modify motherboard tray (drill off brackets to make room for radiator)
-Remove one of my fan controllers (second channel is defective)
-Put in new replacement fan controller
-Put all the equipment back together
-Test if computer still works
-Remove current CPU heatsink
-Pin up my new extra industrial fans
-Screw in all fans onto radiator
-Clean/wash radiator with distiller vinegar and distilled water
-Install radiator and block/pump into computer
-Start measuring/cutting the tubing
-Remove all water cooling parts
-Start filling the loop with distilled water
-Continue to prime the loop/pump for stuck air bubbles
-Leave loop on for a couple hours for leak test
-Install the loop into the computer
-Check temperatures

...then I can finally redo my overclock to see if I can get higher or to check how bad my CPU degradation is.
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post #4154 of 4396
My very first and simple loop completed. I ended up starting earlier than expected since I pulled an all-nighter (never again). I was doing some maintenance and cleanup during the whole process as well. Everything ended up taking about I'm guessing ~12 hours or so. I seriously underestimated the sheer size of the push/pull setup with the radiator. I actually had to take apart everything and remove the motherboard tray to put it in (lots of time wasted in thinking I could've put it in with all equipment put back together). More time wasted when I forgot to put the silver killcoil in where it was a serious pain trying to remove my compression fitting. Tried my best not to damage the tubing so I wouldn't have to worry about wasting it. Sadly I ended up scratching some of the fittings when trying to tighten them but isn't that normal?

That wasn't the end of it (in this case the reservoir extension that's part of the radiator) where the extension was a bit longer than I thought to fit at the top (about ~3mm extended out of the case). The little remedy I found for it was to remove the top power supply cover (the one that has two water cooling tubing holes) and it actually looks awesome. Plus If I have to refill the loop then I have that opening in the back when necessary.

When I had the tubing together, that's when I started filling the loop and tested it for about 2 hours on its own. I was actually scared of damaging the pump because I couldn't see that well if the water was going through or not (the tubing red color was a really thick color). I started noticing the difference though...some swishing noises when there were air bubbles in the loop (I think). Then just minor humming when the loop was completely filled. After some real experience with the pump noise...I found it to be a minor thing and just left it at 100%.

So as I've said...2 hours in testing for leaks with the standalone loop. I then finally put the loop in completed with my system and decided to do some real testing. Put in some paper towels and proceeded to run LinX test to put the CPU and RAM at 100% load. After about 15 hours of testing and some gentle tugging and messing around with the tubing...everything seems to be fine so I'm hoping that's enough for my system. Not a big difference with my last photo but here's quick picture of the system with the CPU loop now...

9828341.png

...and I'm hoping it will continue to run fine. Only things I will worry about is if anything happens to cause a leak, how long it will take for any type of corrosion to occur, and the fact that I'll have to completely tear down the system to really clean the radiator well of dust (but I'm sure I can manage some daily external dusting). I'll have better pictures up when I can for a better look but maybe after I'm done doing some thorough testing of this new setup. Hope you enjoyed reading this long water cooling experience story. thumb.gif
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post #4155 of 4396
I had no idea that there was a club on here for the 840!

I've had one for a few years, I was fed up of "cheap" cases and after enjoying building an Antec 900 I thought I'd buy a decent one and use it for ages.

Outside is all stock, a few pics from inside...

TuN33b9.jpg

vjTC0fK.jpg

Contemplating moving the HDD's into the 5.25" bays (don't need cooling really and should quieten it down a little).

Seeing some of the more adventurous builds in this thread makes me wish I'd painted the inside black frown.gif

I've added quiet a lot of deadening to the inside of my case as the sides were quite flimsy and the bass from my Z5500 was making them rattle!

Is the HDD tray removable?
post #4156 of 4396
Another idea I'd had is instead of painting - to use CF wrap instead.

273__640xfloat=_image-6189_4c97cd15.jpg
post #4157 of 4396
Quote:
Originally Posted by pvp309rcp View Post

. Hope you enjoyed reading this long water cooling experience story. thumb.gif
I certainly did. Glad you finally got it running well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakg View Post

Another idea I'd had is instead of painting - to use CF wrap instead.
I like that idea. My MB painting went awry so maybe I'll give the CF sheets a try.
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post #4158 of 4396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakg View Post

I had no idea that there was a club on here for the 840!

I've had one for a few years, I was fed up of "cheap" cases and after enjoying building an Antec 900 I thought I'd buy a decent one and use it for ages.

Outside is all stock, a few pics from inside...

Contemplating moving the HDD's into the 5.25" bays (don't need cooling really and should quieten it down a little).

Seeing some of the more adventurous builds in this thread makes me wish I'd painted the inside black frown.gif

I've added quiet a lot of deadening to the inside of my case as the sides were quite flimsy and the bass from my Z5500 was making them rattle!

Is the HDD tray removable?

Nice build Jakg. Our cases continue to be a rare gem. I'm with you on the black interior but I think my aluminum fans accent the metal nicely so I'm guessing it all depends on how you customize your build. I did notice some rattling on the side panels in the past but I just started to gently bend them (convex/concave?) until it stopped. As for the drive cage, I think they have to be hard modded to remove them...aka drill the rivets off and you're good to go.
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post #4159 of 4396
Quote:
Originally Posted by pvp309rcp View Post

Nice build Jakg. Our cases continue to be a rare gem. I'm with you on the black interior but I think my aluminum fans accent the metal nicely so I'm guessing it all depends on how you customize your build. I did notice some rattling on the side panels in the past but I just started to gently bend them (convex/concave?) until it stopped. As for the drive cage, I think they have to be hard modded to remove them...aka drill the rivets off and you're good to go.

Both nice builds.

Black interior. I'd never thought about it until now but I wonder if finishing the interior black has an effect on heat absorbed by the case rather than reflected into the airstream for exhaust. Now assuming a black finish did absorb some heat those parts that are exterior might actually more effectively radiate heat to the outside. Maybe all insignificant with an actively cooled system but case radiation to the outside is a design factor in any of the threads I've read about passively cooled builds... generally those are not overclocked though.

Side panel rattle. Earlier in thread someone mentioned sound deadening materials. The conceptual issue I have with those is the extent they act as insulators holding heat in. Once I'm up and running if rattling is an issue I may instead stiffen the (in)sides with aluminum stock (angles, bars, channels?) to kill the rattle or resonance and also increase thermal mass of the sides and they might just radiate heat to the outside. I'd probably afix with black finished rivets (smooth side out) and I don't mind the industrial look.

Lower drive cage removal. I'm pretty sure it is correct that removal is a "hard mod." I'd have to look inside the case again and at the builds that have done this but it may be that the rear verticals are also supporting the rear of the top 5.25" cage which may not be intended to just be a cantilever with no support below. Also look to see if they support the top fan brackets. In my build since the lower bay is not currently used I just removed all the plastic swap trays and the rear plastic fan bracket and stored them for future use if the need arises. That leaves it all pretty open to airflow, preserves it for future use and needs no mod work at all.
Edited by Old Guy - 5/13/13 at 3:39pm
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post #4160 of 4396
I used a little foam strip to eliminate the side panel rattle. It pushes against the side panel enough to keep things quiet.

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Sony HW45ES Projector w 120" Acoustically Trans... VR- HTC VIVE  Acer GD235HZ 120Hz Razer Turret 
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EVGA Supernova 550 G2 Corsair 250D Steelseries Sensei Yamaha RX-V781 
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Emotiva Airmotiv Speakers Fostex T40RP (BMF DBV#3) Objective 2 Desktop  
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VR machine
(21 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4790k  ASUS Z97I-Plus mITX ASUS GTX 1080 Ti Turbo  8G EVGA 1600 C9 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Samsung Spinpoint 1TB Samsung T3 250GB SSD Corsair H60 Windows 8.1 64 bit 
MonitorMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Sony HW45ES Projector w 120" Acoustically Trans... VR- HTC VIVE  Acer GD235HZ 120Hz Razer Turret 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
EVGA Supernova 550 G2 Corsair 250D Steelseries Sensei Yamaha RX-V781 
AudioAudioAudio
Emotiva Airmotiv Speakers Fostex T40RP (BMF DBV#3) Objective 2 Desktop  
  hide details  
Reply
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Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Computer Cases › [Official] Cooler Master ATCS 840 Owners Club