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Seagate Bricked Firmware Drive Fix (With Pics) - Page 4

post #31 of 279
I just did another 500 gb drive for a friend with 100% success. I did have one minor problem. The first time I used the U (spin up) command, I got R/W errors. It turned out to be tarnish on the contacts of the hard drive circuit board (the ones that get isolated with the bristol board). I cleaned all the contacts on the circuit board with a pencil eraser and some alcohol and tried the second time. The errors were gone.
post #32 of 279
Thread Starter 
the only reason someone would need to open up the USB side of the wire would be to find out which wire is which. From the pics I'm seeing (and the 2nd cable I just got in the mail cause a fellow Overclock.net user hasn't returned mine yet) there are no RX, TX, and GND markings - the original cable I got from the "edirect" seller DID have the markings.

To the user who bought his cable from "edirect" did yours have the RX, TX, and GND listed as well? I'd be interested to know if he's getting his cables from more than one source.

Time to boot into XP and start playing with a drive

*edit* btw, there should be no difference in the pins working or not on OEM vs. Retail drives. The only difference is weather or not they come in a box and the warranty offered on the drive. They come off the same assembly line and are made by the same 7 year old Asian kids.
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post #33 of 279
my77stang,
I attached pictures showing the cable ends.
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post #34 of 279
Just thought I'd show a picture of the pins I used, that fit very well. The pin on the bottom is the one I used. I covered them with some small heat shrink to isolate them from one another.

The pin on the top is the RS232 pin, and the one in the middle is a standard PC header pin.
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post #35 of 279
To User928754,

I purchased a couple of the cables from the eBay link that you cited. And just in case, I also purchased a USB to TTL converter from another eBay site. Something just has to work. I have spent more than the drive costs. Now it's just a quest. Also, aren't the RS232 pins still too loose? I thought the best connector pins would have been from the CD-ROM audio connector that no one uses anymore, but they are still too bulky unless you trim them, which is what I have done.

By the way, the instruction set to enter the command mode on the Seagate PCB as listed in several of the threads is:

cntrl + z

Does that mean "cntrl + z" or "cntrl z" (control and the lower case z). We used to just call that ^z in the CP/M days. I would have tried both, but I have not been able to communicate with either the 1.5 TB bricked drive or an identical functional drive.

Also I'm surprised that both the bricked drive and the one purchased 6-8 months later both have the same firmware revision CC1H. Yet, the Seagate diagnostic website says this firmware is not at risk and won't allow an update. What gives here? My bricked drive which functioned for 6 months, spins up, does the normal head seek routine, but refused to boot. It is read in the BIOS as the correct model number with ZERO megabytes. This seems to to be the exact senario that everyone described in the hundreds of posts since January. This problem is not unlike the situation that Intel experienced with their floating point error back a few years. At least they owned up to the problem and replaced all the CPU's.

So, what are the bad firmware revisions, and is my new 1.5 TB drive just as much at risk?
post #36 of 279
jroymd,

Cable
The cable that I bought from the ebay site will work. Yes, the pins are a little loose but they fit well enough to do the job. You can wrap the ends in electrical tape to keep them from touching like "User1202" suggested. Other than that it may take a little patience, to get them connected. I would recommend working on a clean,flat,well-lit surface. After you get it positioned just right, tape the wire to the table or something so it won't move. Just try to keep in mind that you'll probably(hopefully) only have to do this once in your life. Oh and after you get your drive working, I would xfer all information on to another(preferably non-seagate) drive.

Key Command
The "Ctrl+Z" command means holding down the Control key and pushing the Z key at the same time, then releasing both keys.

Non-Communication
As far as not being able to communicate with the drive I would just double-check to make sure all the important steps were taken. Did you first remove the PCB and put a piece of paper in between the connector, then replace the PCB? Also I would check the order that the pins are connected? From the tutorial - "remember to hook up the RX and TX "backwards" or you will not be able to talk to the drive." Also making sure the correct USB cable driver, COM port and Port Settings are selected in HyperTerminal is crucial too. If you could take a video or a series of pictures to show what you're doing as it's pretty difficult to troubleshoot without seeing.

Bad Firmware Revisions
A complete list of affected drives can be found at:
http://news.cnet.com/seagate-fixes-7...hen-it-doesnt/

Also check this Wikipedia article :
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seagate...ith_SATA_disks which references all the appropriate seagate pages, by model number, where you can download a fix.

For reference the model of my drive is ST31000340AS and the firmware version is SD15.
Firmware Fix: http://seagate.custkb.com/seagate/cr...p?DocId=207951



Sorry if I failed to answer some of the questions in your post but I'm going to bed as I have to work in the morning.Be back tomorrow.
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post #37 of 279
To USER928754,

I greatly appreciate your help and the quickness of your responses. Hopefully, the CA-42 cables from the eBay vendor will be the same as you received. If you notice from the 3rd picture on one of my prior posts, the OEM Nokia CA-42 cables manufactured in Thailand are vastly different than the ones from China. The circuit board on the Chinese model is open and accessible. The circuit board on the Thailand model is completely potted in a very hard epoxy-like substance, then wrapped in heavy copper and subsequently with shrink wrap tubing. This is basically NASA-grade construction, and the circuit board is virtually impossible to examine although real good for shooting into earth orbit.

I apologize for the simplicity of the "cntrl + z" question, but it was worth asking, since I have gone through four different CA-42 cables without success. Reading some of the other forums (MSFN forum) on the subject, several people have indicated that some of the CA-42 cables are active all the time while others require activation by the Nokia phone after connection. I hope this is the problem. I have tried the TX - RX pin reversal technique and the PCB isolation with a card technique as shown in the prior posts and video. No luck with communication yet.

Anyway, I'm checking the mailbox a couple times a day.
post #38 of 279
To jroymd,

I've got the CA-42 cabel made in Thailand as well with the black insulation and copper as showed in your third picture. I've had problem to connect with the CA-42 cable and it turned out that you have to power the cabel with a 3V battery connected to + with the red cabel and -3V to the black (GND). The black cabel also has to be connected to GND on the drive. With this set up I get a COM-port as well as a Nokia CA-42 USB Modem.

But I still can't get any response from the drive in HyperTerm...
post #39 of 279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saolix View Post
To jroymd,

I've got the CA-42 cabel made in Thailand as well with the black insulation and copper as showed in your third picture. I've had problem to connect with the CA-42 cable and it turned out that you have to power the cabel with a 3V battery connected to + with the red cabel and -3V to the black (GND). The black cabel also has to be connected to GND on the drive. With this set up I get a COM-port as well as a Nokia CA-42 USB Modem.

But I still can't get any response from the drive in HyperTerm...
To Saolix:

Thank you for your response, but I am not sure I understand the connections. -3V to the ground would either short out the -3V supply or it would yield a relative total of +6V to the Seagate PCB if you had two separate 3V sources. I'm thinking since I got another couple of cables coming in the mail, I'll have to be lucky eventually and get a data cable converter that works for me.
post #40 of 279
Thread Starter 
I just did a drive using another CA-42 cable that didn't have the rx and tx listed on the circuit board... The blue one pictured by user928754 is the original one i got and worked for me with my drive - the fact that the wires are labeled are awesome.
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