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Interior Case Spray Painting Guide - Page 16

post #151 of 164
Quote:
Originally Posted by azoob View Post

Thanks a bunch, you guys are really helpful!

Regarding the scotch brite, should I dry scrub it or scrub the case surface with soap water?

Also updating on my paint-hunting adventure, so far spray can available are still Rustoleum (25+SGD) and Nippon Pylox (8SGD), I saw Liquitex but doubt it works on metal. As for "pure" paint for airbrush, there are only this thing: http://www.docmartins.com/collections/metal-craft and this thing http://www.mr-hobby.com/en/itemDetail.php?iId=1872 that allows the use of these http://www.mr-hobby.com/en/categoryList.php?cType=1 on metal surface.

I kind of want to just go to a local shop and buy instead of ordering online, because online will take some time to deliver, and I want to finish my case soon so I can put the parts in (will be buying my new PC in 1-2 weeks) and I don't want to leave the parts lying around without a case, unless I buy 2 cases T__T

First let me apologize for not getting back here sooner. ISP went down for about a day and a half and a couple other things kept me away.

Anywho... If I were in your situation with the paint I would skip the doc martin paint. It is for painting lawn furniture and lawn ornaments. Not going to give you the finish you are looking for on your pc case. If you can afford the Rustoleum spray paint I would go that route.

When using the scotch brite pad, you are doing this to "scuff" the existing paint. Use light pressure to scuff the paint, not remove the paint. If you needed to remove the paint I would tell you to use some sand paper. After you finish "scuffing" the paint, take a clean lint free cloth and a bucket of warm soapy water and give the case a good wipe down and after it dries you can shoot your first coat of paint. Lightly sand the first coat with some 1000 grit wet sand paper and apply the next coat of paint. Rinse and repeat until you have the finish you desire. Once you get the finish you desire I recommend a couple or four coats of clear coat to not only preserve your finish, but it helps detour fingerprints, etc. and your case will shine up nice like when you clean it.
As far as the buying a second case goes, I say if you can afford it, do it. I have done this very thing a few times because a good paint hob does not happen overnight. I have sold the extra case afterwards a few times, and other times it has been convenient having a spare case on hand.
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post #152 of 164
Many thanks Bulldozer72, no worry I was pretty busy myself as well.

What do you mean by
Quote:
It is for painting lawn furniture and lawn ornaments. Not going to give you the finish you are looking for on your pc case.

is it not glossy, shiny or something I will definitely not like? but that will save me the trouble of having to prep the airbrush and cleaning up afterwards.

Guess I will have to look harder for cheaper Rustoleum, or just go full cheapo and try it first with Nippon Pylox, if it doesnt work then I guess some sanding work is in order. Gonna be hard working on something full of holes like the mesh surface of the TT Core V21 case
post #153 of 164
I would like to know how the holy, hairy heck you all are getting a good finish from Rustoleum spray paint. Every time I've used it since they made the formulation more "environmentally friendly" back in the early '90s, the "stuff" takes forever to dry, it goes on fuzzy looking, and often shoots little tiny worms of thickened paint that didn't mix properly no matter how long or hard I shook the stupid can. I have no trouble with Krylon or Duplicolor so I doubt it is my painting technique.
     
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post #154 of 164
Quote:
Originally Posted by azoob View Post

Many thanks Bulldozer72, no worry I was pretty busy myself as well.

What do you mean by
Quote:
It is for painting lawn furniture and lawn ornaments. Not going to give you the finish you are looking for on your pc case.

1. is it not glossy, shiny or something I will definitely not like? but that will save me the trouble of having to prep the airbrush and cleaning up afterwards.

2. Guess I will have to look harder for cheaper Rustoleum, or just go full cheapo and try it first with Nippon Pylox, if it doesnt work then I guess some sanding work is in order. Gonna be hard working on something full of holes like the mesh surface of the TT Core V21 case

1. It is paint formulated to withstand the elements with zero to very little maintenance. Even after perfect application and multiple coats of some great carnuba wax, it is going to look very meh. I will just about guarantee you will paint your case again if you use this paint. I have yet to see even a first time DIY paint job that was not repainted, and usually very guickly, when the finished product looked meh. Lesson's were learned, new prep and/or tactics were used, different type paint, or any of another number of factors were changed to get the desired end result. You may, let me type that again, you may like the finished product using the doc martin lawn furniture paint... But I really, really doubt it. Especially after you spend the extra time it will take in maintenance and cleaning of the airbrush/compressor you will be using in the application process.

2. Ok... you need to understand that a DIY project is going to require some leg work. Let me state again that Rustoleum is really, really bad paint. If your only two choices are the Nippon Pylox and Rustoleum, go with the Nippon Pylox... Because I really doubt the Nippon Pylox is worse quality paint than Rustoleum. And if it is cheaper than Rustoleum, then you will not be out as much cashola when you sand it off your case to paint the case again. Find a good paint before you do all that prep work and take the time to do the shoot. I have suggested both MTN Hardcore and Molotow Premium as they are good quality spray paints that are not hard to procure. I Googled MTN Hardcore Singapore and got the following email address:

mtncolors.malaysia@gmail.com

I suggest you email them to see if there is a vendor in your area, and if not, what they have available and how much it will cost to have the products you wish to purchase shipped to you. Tell them that you are painting a PC case and ask what tips and other accessories they have available to help you get the job done so that the paint looks femaledog-in'.

I also clicked on this link on the first page that came up:

https://www.instagram.com/mtnmalaysia/

I do not know how close you are to Kuala Lumpur, but this shop has MTN Hardcore 2 and MTN 94. Both are very high quality paints and spray exceptionally well. I would think with this info you can by pass the Rustoleum. Or maybe not...

I would try Google'ing Molotow Premium Singapore if this shop in KL does not fit your needs. Even if you live in the middle of no where, you should be able to purchase quality paint. thumb.gif

I will finish with if you decide to go with the Nippon Pylox spray paint, it may be in your best interest to get a second case, because I see you doing this paint job a few times before you get the results you desire in your paint job. Just my .02

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

I would like to know how the holy, hairy heck you all are getting a good finish from Rustoleum spray paint. Every time I've used it since they made the formulation more "environmentally friendly" back in the early '90s, the "stuff" takes forever to dry, it goes on fuzzy looking, and often shoots little tiny worms of thickened paint that didn't mix properly no matter how long or hard I shook the stupid can. I have no trouble with Krylon or Duplicolor so I doubt it is my painting technique.

One does not get "a good finish" when using Rustoleum spray paint. I agree with your observation of pretty much all massed produced spray paint, no matter the manufacturer, since the '90's. Rustoleum and Krylon both, and even Duplikolor, are pure crapola and a waste of both your time and money. I found out about MTN Hardcore about 7-8 years ago. It is a very high quality enamel paint. It is reasonably priced and can be found in a variety of locations such as hobby shops, hardware stores, and craft stores. It is also easy to find online if you do not have it available to you locally.

MTN's NA distributor is in Los Angeles. If you can not find it in a store around you, here is a link to one of many online retailers. I use the MTN Hardcore, Hardcore 2 and MTN 94. It is great spray paint:

http://33third.com/category/123-400ml-high-pressure-montana-mtn-hardcore2-spray-paint.aspx


My nephew has been using Molotow Premium for all his spray painting needs. It is also very high quality enamel paint and everything he has painted with it was beautiful when the job was done. Everything he has painted has been matte finish and I have never gone to the store where he purchases the stuff, so I do not know if it comes in glossy or semi-glossy colors.
I was not happy with my Arc XL, so this last black friday I bought a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe. I really like this case. Last summer I had a customer come into my shop asking about a candy paint job I did on a bike a few years back. I got on the web site to get him the info he was asking about, and found out that the company (Alsa) that makes the candy and pearl pigment's I used in my paint had a product called Killer Cans. This is their ultra high quality paint's in a very high tech spray can. I did not think I would ever use this stuff, but since I ended up closing my shop this last December, and lost my paint booth in the process, it lools like I am going to be using this spray paint on the Luxe when I paint it. They have Candies in a can, Pearl's in a can, and even Flip-Flop's in a spray can. It is a little spendy but most high quality products are.

http://alsacorp.com/killer-cans/

They have primer, base coats, a WIDE variety of colors and clears. Pretty much everything needed for a sweet custom paint job, all in spray cans.

One thing I learned using spray paint as a kid. If your ambient is under 75F, put the spray can in a bucket of hot water for 4-5 minutes before shaking and applying. It always helps and generally the cheaper the paint, the more it helps. I remember putting really cheap spray paint in hot water when the ambient was above 90F (yeah, the good old days).

Hope this post helped you both.
Edited by Bulldozer72 - 1/11/16 at 6:08am
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post #155 of 164
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldozer72 View Post

...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

I would like to know how the holy, hairy heck you all are getting a good finish from Rustoleum spray paint. Every time I've used it since they made the formulation more "environmentally friendly" back in the early '90s, the "stuff" takes forever to dry, it goes on fuzzy looking, and often shoots little tiny worms of thickened paint that didn't mix properly no matter how long or hard I shook the stupid can. I have no trouble with Krylon or Duplicolor so I doubt it is my painting technique.

One does not get "a good finish" when using Rustoleum spray paint. I agree with your observation of pretty much all massed produced spray paint, no matter the manufacturer, since the '90's. Rustoleum and Krylon both, and even Duplikolor, are pure crapola and a waste of both your time and money...

To quote Foghorn, "I say, I say there. You ain't paying attention, boy." I don't agree about Krylon and Dupli-Color being pure crapola and they certainly are NOT in the same class as Rustoleum (which doesn't even qualify for crapola). Except for their self etching primer, I can get excellent results from Krylon (and, to a slightly lesser degree, Dupli-Color); not so with Rustoleum. The only Rustoleum I will use anymore is their self-etching primer and that's only because it sticks to aluminum much better than Dupli-Color, the only other brand of self-etching primer I can find in my neck of the woods desert. I have to let it dry for a few days so I can sand it (even wet sand it) to get rid of the fuzzy surface (it looks like it was flocked) before hitting it with a more conventional primer and top coats.

I do appreciate the links you provided and will bookmark them for future reference for future projects (there will always be future projects no matter how old I get; I'll probably build or mod my coffin just before they cremate me).
     
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post #156 of 164
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldozer72 View Post

...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

I would like to know how the holy, hairy heck you all are getting a good finish from Rustoleum spray paint. Every time I've used it since they made the formulation more "environmentally friendly" back in the early '90s, the "stuff" takes forever to dry, it goes on fuzzy looking, and often shoots little tiny worms of thickened paint that didn't mix properly no matter how long or hard I shook the stupid can. I have no trouble with Krylon or Duplicolor so I doubt it is my painting technique.

One does not get "a good finish" when using Rustoleum spray paint. I agree with your observation of pretty much all massed produced spray paint, no matter the manufacturer, since the '90's. Rustoleum and Krylon both, and even Duplikolor, are pure crapola and a waste of both your time and money...

To quote Foghorn, "I say, I say there. You ain't paying attention, boy." I don't agree about Krylon and Dupli-Color being pure crapola and they certainly are NOT in the same class as Rustoleum (which doesn't even qualify for crapola). Except for their self etching primer, I can get excellent results from Krylon (and, to a slightly lesser degree, Dupli-Color); not so with Rustoleum. The only Rustoleum I will use anymore is their self-etching primer and that's only because it sticks to aluminum much better than Dupli-Color, the only other brand of self-etching primer I can find in my neck of the woods desert. I have to let it dry for a few days so I can sand it (even wet sand it) to get rid of the fuzzy surface (it looks like it was flocked) before hitting it with a more conventional primer and top coats.

I do appreciate the links you provided and will bookmark them for future reference for future projects (there will always be future projects no matter how old I get; I'll probably build or mod my coffin just before they cremate me).

Ok, I do not want to argue with you. I am glad you get good results with Krylon and DupliKolor (if I explained why I spell it this way I will get an infraction). I will just say that if you give the MTN a one or two can try out, you will probably never purchase another can of said brands. It really is much better spray paint. My main problem with soray oaint is getting the exact shade of a color I am looking for. It would also appear I will go back to using DK self etching primer in a spray can. I severely miss Dupont Automotive self-etching primer shot out of my primer gun just thinking about going back to using that stuff. Oh, well, life is all about adapting.

You are welcome for the links. I really want to use those Killer Cans Candies to paint the Luxe. It takes me forever to decide on what color(s) to shoot. It will be about April or May before ambients get warm enougn to paint in the garage, so I got a little time to ponder on it.
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post #157 of 164
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldozer72 View Post

1. It is paint formulated to withstand the elements with zero to very little maintenance. Even after perfect application and multiple coats of some great carnuba wax, it is going to look very meh. I will just about guarantee you will paint your case again if you use this paint. I have yet to see even a first time DIY paint job that was not repainted, and usually very guickly, when the finished product looked meh. Lesson's were learned, new prep and/or tactics were used, different type paint, or any of another number of factors were changed to get the desired end result. You may, let me type that again, you may like the finished product using the doc martin lawn furniture paint... But I really, really doubt it. Especially after you spend the extra time it will take in maintenance and cleaning of the airbrush/compressor you will be using in the application process.

2. Ok... you need to understand that a DIY project is going to require some leg work. Let me state again that Rustoleum is really, really bad paint. If your only two choices are the Nippon Pylox and Rustoleum, go with the Nippon Pylox... Because I really doubt the Nippon Pylox is worse quality paint than Rustoleum. And if it is cheaper than Rustoleum, then you will not be out as much cashola when you sand it off your case to paint the case again. Find a good paint before you do all that prep work and take the time to do the shoot. I have suggested both MTN Hardcore and Molotow Premium as they are good quality spray paints that are not hard to procure. I Googled MTN Hardcore Singapore and got the following email address:

mtncolors.malaysia@gmail.com

I suggest you email them to see if there is a vendor in your area, and if not, what they have available and how much it will cost to have the products you wish to purchase shipped to you. Tell them that you are painting a PC case and ask what tips and other accessories they have available to help you get the job done so that the paint looks femaledog-in'.

I also clicked on this link on the first page that came up:

https://www.instagram.com/mtnmalaysia/

I do not know how close you are to Kuala Lumpur, but this shop has MTN Hardcore 2 and MTN 94. Both are very high quality paints and spray exceptionally well. I would think with this info you can by pass the Rustoleum. Or maybe not...

I would try Google'ing Molotow Premium Singapore if this shop in KL does not fit your needs. Even if you live in the middle of no where, you should be able to purchase quality paint. thumb.gif

I will finish with if you decide to go with the Nippon Pylox spray paint, it may be in your best interest to get a second case, because I see you doing this paint job a few times before you get the results you desire in your paint job. Just my .02

Thank you so much

I have asked my friend in KL to take a look the MTN shop and see if he can ship me some cans. Better yet, I found this place selling Molotow
http://www.overjoyed.com.sg/catalogsearch/result/?q=molotow+premium
originally I thought it was just online shop, but apparently they have a physical shop in Singapore, so will take a look. The price listed on the website is as low as Nippon Pylox (about 1/3 of Rustoleum), so i guess the paint I know what to get.

Anyhow, if I am looking for matte finish, what type/series/line of the Molotow/MTN paint should I use? As for gloss, I guess it's just MTN Hardcore / Molotow Premium?

It's raining season here so I guess it's hard to start painting any time soon. Also, the Thermaltake Core V21 mesh front panel has bigger holes than I expect, and the dust filter is not easily removable, so I have to rethink about my design for a bit. Also, I don't mind the extra hard work, it's just that equipment and tools are either hard to find or expensive here, and I don't see myself doing more than 1-2 projects to justify getting many extra tools only for them to collect dust later. Of course sand papers are nothing thought XD, just that I have limited time after work to accommodate long continuous process.

Again, thank you for the advice, will keep updating here on my progress
post #158 of 164
Quote:
Originally Posted by azoob View Post


Thank you so much

I have asked my friend in KL to take a look the MTN shop and see if he can ship me some cans. Better yet, I found this place selling Molotow
http://www.overjoyed.com.sg/catalogsearch/result/?q=molotow+premium
originally I thought it was just online shop, but apparently they have a physical shop in Singapore, so will take a look. The price listed on the website is as low as Nippon Pylox (about 1/3 of Rustoleum), so i guess the paint I know what to get.

Anyhow, if I am looking for matte finish, what type/series/line of the Molotow/MTN paint should I use? As for gloss, I guess it's just MTN Hardcore / Molotow Premium?

It's raining season here so I guess it's hard to start painting any time soon. Also, the Thermaltake Core V21 mesh front panel has bigger holes than I expect, and the dust filter is not easily removable, so I have to rethink about my design for a bit. Also, I don't mind the extra hard work, it's just that equipment and tools are either hard to find or expensive here, and I don't see myself doing more than 1-2 projects to justify getting many extra tools only for them to collect dust later. Of course sand papers are nothing thought XD, just that I have limited time after work to accommodate long continuous process.

Again, thank you for the advice, will keep updating here on my progress

Cool deal on finding the Molotow Premium locally. I have never used Molotow Premium before, nor actually seen a can in person for that matter. My nephew likes it so well, it is all he uses and I have just seen his finished jobs. It is easy to look at and see the paint is matte finish. I do not know how the cans are labeled so really have no idea as to what to tell you to look for. MTN Hardcore 2 (as far as I know) is all gloss paint. The store's I have purchased it from have only gloss colors and the times I have ordered colors not on hand have always been gloss. I do not know if MTN makes Hardcore 2 in matte of not. I have used the MTN 94 about a half a dozen times and I just look at the color on the top of the can to see if it is a gloss or matte before I buy it. I can tell the difference with my eyes and make my purchase accordingly. I have ordered paint not in stock and do not remember specifying gloss, but have never received matte when I picked the order up when it came in. If you have to order the paint online and want to be sure, ask the place you are ordering from if the colors you are purchasing are matte or gloss before you purchase them. If a color you want is not the type of paint you want, ask the vendor what shades of the color you desire are available in the type of paint you want. i.e.: if you want azure blue in gloss but the azure blue available is matte, ask what gloss blue is available and close to the azure blue hue. I hope that made sense to you.
With spray paint you really do not need to purchase tools. However, when using either MTN or Molotow you will have to purchase "caps" or "tips" as they are some times called. Most stores call the caps for painting large area's "fat caps". My neph uses fat caps for Molotow paint when he paints pc cases. I use fat caps when I use MTN and painting a computer case. The caps will not be reusable, and I replace the cap when doing another coat of the same color. Kind of a cheap insurance policy. The accessories I was referring to was things like sand paper, polishing (or rubbing) compound and painter's tape. Do not use brown masking tape when spray painting. Here in the US painter's tape is usually blue in color and generally a person goes to an automotive paint store to purchase it. It is not that expensive and if you do not use it all, one is not out very much.

Good luck with your case painting. I will look forward to your updates here.
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post #159 of 164
thumb.gif Thanks for the guide man!!!
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post #160 of 164
Hiyo been so long.

I finally got my hand on some Molotow Premium spray can and started testing it out with the inside of my case side panel. Did 3 coats so far, and probably stop at that and add 1 last clear matte coat on top.

I think I overdid the 1st coat with too much paint (refer to pic below)
pics (Click to show)
Coat 1


coat 2

Sorry for the potato photo skill. The 2nd coat looks lighter because pic was taken during day time, and also the color is bright blue (shock blue as labelled by Molotow), I guess on 2nd coat onward the color is less affected by the original black color of the panel, thus looking brighter.

Also, the paint has just the right rough textured feel that I like, so I will probably skip the sanding part, as for matte finish I don't think a super smooth surface is as important as in the case with glossy mirror finish?
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