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OCN Speaker Club - Page 162

post #1611 of 3866
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
That reminds me, I still have to attempt to fix a pushed in dustcap on one of my mids .
Vacuum works best Just be careful not to actually suck the whole dust cap off, or even the whole diaphragm.
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post #1612 of 3866
Quote:
Originally Posted by FearSC549 View Post
Vacuum works best Just be careful not to actually suck the whole dust cap off, or even the whole diaphragm.
I've tried that, they're too stiff. Go figure.
 
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post #1613 of 3866
Quote:
Originally Posted by FearSC549 View Post
Read more about speakers and such. Remember, not everyone is around to answer your questions. Also, that's a super tweeter right there(aka 5khz+), that won't do any good in a speaker system, especially no practical home audio speakers have a SPL of 98db @ 1m/1w throughout the whole freq. range. That's more like professional audio(PA systems).

Also, I do not know why do you consider cabinet working that important. IMO you need to work on learning about speakers first then moving on to cabinet. Yes, cabinet working is as equally as a driver and a system design, but really consider starting out with speakers. Just like computers, when you learn about it, you don't start out with how it looks, how sexy the case is, but you look into the internal parts(what makes it work).

haha, thats why i took apart my rockford fosgate punch SE driver which wouldnt work. the voice coil got burned. not suprised considering it came out of somones car who couldnt even bother paying to get it back before it got impounded. it did give me a physical understanding of exactly how the driver works on a more detailed level than taking apart crappy $2 drivers...then again thats kinda weird because i already knew the theory on how they work.

a current gets sent from a device into a voice coil which turns it into an electro-magnet which reacts with the permanent earth magnet. when the voice coil moves up and down towards and away from the earth magnet which is glued to the basket assembly, it will move the spider which helps keep the voice coil stabilized and move the diaphragm assembly (cone and dustcap) which in turn, will move air molecules which will reach your ears and move a tiny bone in your ear many times per second in correlation with the air molecules movement which is measured in htz and decibels. this bone is attatched to a nerve and the brain interperates that as sound. did i hit the mark?


even knowing that does nothing to help me in figuring out the quality of speakers. when i see graphs of distortion versus decibels, crossover diagrams, other stuff on charts and whatnot, it literally looks like greek to me. i have no idea how the shape of the cabinet works with with the acoustical properties of the driver itself other than a curved cabinet will reduce resonance dramatically according to some polk audio engineer looking guy i saw on a video. these are the areas i need to learn huge ammounts of information. then i need to learn how to produce first, functional, then good looking cabinets applying what i have learned.

on a side note, that super tweeter is actually a good quality tweeter? 38 bucks doesnt seem too steep for even a good dome tweeter to me. im guessing id have to fiddle with the crossover alot to get that tweeter to match up well with any 90 or less db woofer though, that being said it seems it would match up well with that fullrange and i plan on looking online on reviews of that fullrange with 97db, but i wouldnt even build with one til i got a good ammount of money and really knew what i was doing.
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post #1614 of 3866
Quote:
Originally Posted by drjoey1500 View Post
What speakers are they? Pics?

If it's just a small hole you can repair it with a piece of tissue paper soaked in glue/water. I've done it before. You can actually see where I repaired the mid of my speakers in the link on the members list.
pioneer CS-T2100-k. i posted 2 pics about an hour ago. and its about 1/4 the way around the edge of the cone there is nothing to attach it to :'( and i dont know how to pull speakers apart to fix it, sound still comes out of it but its that great when it gets turned up to nearing dumb levels
post #1615 of 3866
Quote:
Originally Posted by Th0m0_202 View Post
pioneer CS-T2100-k. i posted 2 pics about an hour ago. and its about 1/4 the way around the edge of the cone there is nothing to attach it to :'( and i dont know how to pull speakers apart to fix it, sound still comes out of it but its that great when it gets turned up to nearing dumb levels
ive used some dap rubber sealant. you could try getting wet tissue paper and some of that over it, it would basically making a new rubber surround. i did that when a screwdriver went through my x540 driver and burned the rubber sealant in by actually hooking up a 250 watt amp to it and playing bass, i love you to make damn sure the rubber would hold. it will hold all right

i hope i helped.

edit: i know its almost the same thing the other guy said realizing this after i posted, but the rubber worked really well for my needs, im thinking it will work better than any glue.
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post #1616 of 3866
its all paper tho but thanks anyway
post #1617 of 3866
Quote:
Originally Posted by Th0m0_202 View Post
its all paper tho but thanks anyway
meaning it doesnt have a rubber surround? like those old panasonic paper cone tweeters?
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post #1618 of 3866
mmm kinda yer the sub has a rubber surround but the tweeter and the mid doesnt. they are about 6 years old tho. and im only 19 and more into cars and pc's atm so sorry if i say anything retarded
Edited by Th0m0_202 - 11/3/10 at 3:14am
post #1619 of 3866
Quote:
Originally Posted by Th0m0_202 View Post
mmm kinda yer the sub has a rubber surround but the tweeter and the mid doesnt. they are about 6 years old tho. and im only 19 and more into cars and pc's atm so sorry if i say anything retarded
ahh, like them old fisher speakers, i never was a fan of those >_> my crappy polk 6.5 inch drivers have bigger magnets than most of those 10 inch woofers. they do claim to be 95 db or so on most of those things ive seen though, i guess thats good.

edit: im only 19 too by the way, age is not an excuse imo, i look at my lack of motivation as the reason i'm not an accomplished speaker builder yet.
Edited by coreyL - 11/3/10 at 6:22pm
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post #1620 of 3866


ok so i want to build some bookshelves out of these in the near future, i might have 2 woofers each bookshelf but thats $100 a speaker. i'm not familiar with the match up of any of these but anyone think it would go well? im aiming to make them sound as good as medium end studio monitors like rockit's. is that possible with those driver configurations? those crossovers match up well with the tweeter, i could go higher on the crossover to have the woofer and tweeter mesh, or should the woofer stop where the tweeter begins? ill finidh my current bookshelf project first before even thinking of buying any of that by the way, im just curious if that matches up before i even understand the research based on my hunch.
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