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post #1921 of 3859
Ok, seriously. I have looked for over 10 hours online for ANY INFORMATION on the velodyne ULD 18 servo controller regarding how I would trick the servo amplifier in thinking there is no servo so i could essentially power any sub driver like a normal rackmount amp with it. If I were to call up velodyne myself they would not help and tell me to trade my ULD 18 in for a DD 18 and just give me a discount on the newer DD18 subwoofer.

Is anyone going to help me or do I really have to buy a new amp to actually keep using my ULD 18 subwoofer?

If I do buy a new amp, where could I get a 400 watt or more, class B or better amp for relitively cheap, how could I use the parts inside my ULD 18 amp and just rebuild it into a regular non servo 400 watt class b amp. Could it be possible to just put a bigger transformer inside the current setup and get more than 400 watts out of the same circuit boards? I ask this because my ULD 18 driver could be damaged from popping out so much, If it is, repairing the driver alone would cost me at least $400, if not more I know that for a fact; so if the velodyne driver IS damaged, I will be either getting a maelstorm 18 inch woofer, possibly some JBL 18 inch woofer from 20 years ago in which the velodyne driver was designed from based off of what i read in the stereophile review or an LMS ultra 5400.

I am not even expecting any help and the last audio forum I tried registering at wouldn't activate my account which REALLY pissed me off so I decided not to mess with other forums.


Also, If chat worked, I would have gotten much better decent help by now. I still blame the mods for that. I won't even be getting any decent help on this. Me having lent my soldering iron to someone, I can not re solder the rca input of the wobbly servo connector then superglue it down and try and see if that helps at all to fix the servo which I don't think it will help, but when the rca input moved at all including from vibrations from bass, it popped the driver. At some point the servo worked wrong. I know this because when I first got the sub, If I tapped the driver when the servo was off, it sounded like a bass thunk, with the servo on, it sounded like a hollow, much higher piched knock on wood almost, then the driver would oscilate. later on after I had retarded amounts of servo problems with many different times of the driver popping out very violently, tapping the driver with the servo on barely sounds like the old hollow knock and much more like a bass thump and the driver will not oscilate at all from tapping it anymore

but at this current moment, I can not even get the servo to turn on, which means the sub will not work at ALL anymore. The servo is so propietary that I could literally not get a random ULD 18 driver and either use that with my specific ULD servo amplifier, or use a different ULD amp with my specific driver. Each driver will literally only work with the servo in the amp specifically hand built for that specific driver with matching serial numbers, otherwise the servo will not work at all. this is why I say I'd like to just delete the servo function somehow from my amp and use it like any ordinary rackmount amp. If the driver is damaged, then I will probably end up getting an LMS ultra 5400 driver, slapping that in my current velodyne box, then I will somehow try to figure out how to use my class b servo amp with it by disabling the servo functionality and just connect the banana plugs to the same spot on the sub inputs connected this time to the LMS ultra voicecoil with no servo cord. I'm hoping a bigger transformer will get more than 400 watts out of the same amp and have the ability to get the same or better acoustical output out of an LMS ultra 5400 driver in the same box with the same amp hopefully with more wattage coming out of it.





TL;DR VERSION HERE.


Priorities:


1: fix the servo

2: delete the servo functionality and hopefully my driver isn't damaged and works perfectly with the same amp, no questions

3: my driver is damaged, I must delete servo functionality as well as replace my driver most likely with an LMS ultra 5400 and hopefully if it comes to that, a bigger transformer will get more wattage out of the same amp, the sub box will be refinished if it comes to that as well
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post #1922 of 3859
Quote:
Originally Posted by coreyL View Post
Dude everyone here says i got ripped off paying $200 for my NAD T751 receiver and that it's garbage and that any $200 yamaha receiver today will rape it.
Well they'd be dead wrong, their older stuff is SOLID. I have a 225wpc stereo power amp, thing is a brick... it's beastly. Though I should probably replace some components in it for longevities sake. (was an old schools PA amp, pretty grungy interior)

But then I swapped over to a Rotel RB 991 (200Wpc) It looked nicer, and was a piece I'd been eying for a while...
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post #1923 of 3859
Quote:
Originally Posted by H3||scr3am View Post
Well they'd be dead wrong, their older stuff is SOLID. I have a 225wpc stereo power amp, thing is a brick... it's beastly. Though I should probably replace some components in it for longevities sake. (was an old schools PA amp, pretty grungy interior)

But then I swapped over to a Rotel RB 991 (200Wpc) It looked nicer, and was a piece I'd been eying for a while...
Yeah it weighs like at least 40 pounds.

the problem is my receiver has a pretty bad buzz on it that I can't get rid of, and paying somone to repair it will cost more than I paid for it. It did not buzz at all when I bought it, but had the problem before and the previous owner sid he fixed it.

apparently not.
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post #1924 of 3859
Quote:
Originally Posted by coreyL View Post
Yeah it weighs like at least 40 pounds.

the problem is my receiver has a pretty bad buzz on it that I can't get rid of, and paying somone to repair it will cost more than I paid for it. It did not buzz at all when I bought it, but had the problem before and the previous owner sid he fixed it.

apparently not.
generally a grounding or feedback issue... you'd need to open 'er up... check for loose ground connections, sometimes it's a wing nut style setup grounded to the chassis, and just need's a bit of tightening up...

another cheap way to get stuff fixed, if you have some cahones, is go to your local hackerspace, and ask for some help diagnosing the issue... if you have some competent EEs, or the like, they'll get you sorted pretty quick. I fix stuff at mine all the time
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post #1925 of 3859
Quote:
Originally Posted by H3||scr3am View Post
generally a grounding or feedback issue... you'd need to open 'er up... check for loose ground connections, sometimes it's a wing nut style setup grounded to the chassis, and just need's a bit of tightening up...

another cheap way to get stuff fixed, if you have some cahones, is go to your local hackerspace, and ask for some help diagnosing the issue... if you have some competent EEs, or the like, they'll get you sorted pretty quick. I fix stuff at mine all the time
Heh, thanks for the tip. I'll open it up sometime in the next day or so

One of my main problems is the only person alive I personally know that knows more about audio than I do is extremely quirky and I can't exactly have him diagnose my equipment on demand. He happened to diagnose and repair drivers for Bang and Olufson, and Velodyne that I know of a long time ago.

Seeing as his store is no longer in operation, there is literally nowhere I know of to actually audition legit hifi audio equipment anymore. I didnt get to know him while his store was in operation for very long

He sold things like Mcintosh, Gallo, Quad, NAD, Marrantz, B&W, some klipsch, PSB, Infinity, Focal/JMlab, Velodyne, AR, Harmon and Kardon. many more actual legit Hifi brands, a lot of which I can't think of at the top of my head and even more that I've never even heard of.

I never got to hear anything Hifi aside from a Velodyne DD 10, my velodyne, some ATC 5 inch $4,000 pair of bookshelves, some PSB image 4t's, Gallo 3.1 system and I have no idea what the hell sub went with it in his wall, and some JMlab micro utopia's. I wish I got to hear JMlabs with the beryllium tweeters I heard a story of how the guy who actually designed the beryllium tweeters visited his house and gave him a pair of tweeters what costed $2,000 each, got to hold the tweeters in their box myself, they were awesome.

but Yeah, I don't even consider my crappy M-audio BX5A studio monitors HiFi at this point.

I have never even got to audition klipsch, the only Hifi speaker's Iv'e ever heard are listed there. I do not consider the polk audio towers I heard at a mall once HiFi. they sounded like crap. Iv'e heard klipsch speakers ONCE but it was barely audible so I couldn't actually gauge them well, they were overhead in a store. I do not count that as an audition.

I need to find a better way to keep learning about audio. I can't seem to find something that works out other than pestering my friend's dad once in a while.
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post #1926 of 3859
About the servo... Half the point of why that particular sub is so good is the servo from what I could tell. The whole point is that they make servos specific to the driver. It wouldn't be very effective if you were using a different servo.

Dude, I'm serious. Try an audio forum. Any forum that could help you out will generally move much much slower than OCN so you have to have some patience. Obviously none of the few of us know so try several other forums first before you scrap the whole thing. The reason everything is so specific and you have all the servos and stuff that need to be there is because that sub was designed so that all the different parts work together. Sure you could buy some random driver with good specs, drop it in a random box and it will probably sound really good, but you yourself said your sub is worth a lot and was obviously designed very well.

If you got BSODs every time you boot and could barely post, would you scrap your whole rig, or spend hours and hours trying to fix it?
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post #1927 of 3859
Quote:
Originally Posted by drjoey1500 View Post
About the servo... Half the point of why that particular sub is so good is the servo from what I could tell. The whole point is that they make servos specific to the driver. It wouldn't be very effective if you were using a different servo.

Dude, I'm serious. Try an audio forum. Any forum that could help you out will generally move much much slower than OCN so you have to have some patience. Obviously none of the few of us know so try several other forums first before you scrap the whole thing. The reason everything is so specific and you have all the servos and stuff that need to be there is because that sub was designed so that all the different parts work together. Sure you could buy some random driver with good specs, drop it in a random box and it will probably sound really good, but you yourself said your sub is worth a lot and was obviously designed very well.

If you got BSODs every time you boot and could barely post, would you scrap your whole rig, or spend hours and hours trying to fix it?
My earlier post already said each driver is designed for a specific amp hand made. They even used to puncture tiny holes in certain spots on the driver cone to further tune the performance of the driver. The thing about the LMS ultra 5400 that appeals to me is even pushing in 1000 watts rms trying to rape the driver, it won't do jack. I'd like to have an indestructible sub. 100db is much more than enough SPL for me, but it's annoying when 70db SPL literally broke my velodyne, and the guy that sold it to me just assumed I abused it, overdriving it all the time. I never really cranked up the sub other than trying to test it, making sure it won't pop out if it does get that high. anyway, it's arbitrary to go to my friend's dad for any advice other than bringing him the amp and trying to get him to convert it to an ordinary amp with no servo which i can just plug directly into the voice coil of my sub, no questions asked. He doesn't actually have the equipment to fix the servo he told me.

The hours and hours ive spent messing with my sub only revealed a few things. My amp works in the sense that the amplification itself works, which means something in the servo circuit is messed up, as well as the rca input of the servo connection to the amp itself is loose on the soldering connection and needs to be re soldered as well as glued down into place. that only solves part of my problem. I will also need to figure out why the servo circuit itself is messed up and how to fix that which is such proprietary technology in of itself that maybe one in a million techs cold even help me and the one person I know that can help me no longer has the equipment required to properly diagnose the circuitry of the servo. He was servicing these when I was in my moms stomach, literally.

Other news reveals that I retardedly broke my NAD T751 I paid $200 for by trying to plug a fan wire back in and having something short out, frying stuff on a PCB which I have no idea to diagnose, so It's pretty much useless trash to me now. a new fuse did not fix my problem, at all. I will not start to use my realtek ALC 889 audio pre ampped signal to drive my active studio monitors from the left and right channel and I hooked up my velodyne to the center/sub channel which actually works.

by the way, the velodyne sounded alot better when the servo actually worked. I had to end up un plugging the accelerometer cables out of the pcb of the servo circuit or it will not work at all, when I once plugged that header back in opposite on accident, all that happened is the driver oscilated very slowly do to the servo. I have no idea why the sub even works with the accelerometer cable unplugged at all but it does. The rca servo input seems to work when the sub is set very low and doesn't vibrate too much after I applied about an hour of probably 60 pounds of pressure on the rca input downwards so that the servo circuit could at least be semi fooled.

this is really starting to piss me off. I'm going to have to buy a new sound card since my opamps are dying everywhere on my auzentech, a new receiver, and possibly a new amp to drive my sub driver, maybe a new driver as well since it doesn't sound nearly as good without a working servo.

I'm honestly surprised that at the hundreds of audiophiles that build speakers who are much more intelligent that I am can not seem to help with the servo problem, I'm giving up completely on my NAD receiver and I'll just donate it to my friend's dad to fix and re sell for pure profit on his end. He's given me a $200+ gallo nucleus driver amongst other things for free anyway.

So I guess the priority goes: New receiver, fix the sub up, new sound card, energy RC 50 speakers, a suitable center, use bx5a's as rears for a while

then get the DSLR camera I'm looking for which ill most likely end up being a $700 sony camera which has limited flash attachment options but takes full 1080P video as well as has a better sensor than many expensive DSLR's in low lighting conditions apparently.
Edited by coreyL - 2/1/11 at 2:58pm
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post #1928 of 3859
Corey:
If you're wanting an indestructible subwoofer, you're going about it the wrong way. Your current Velodyne is a good sub if it was in good shape. If you're looking at replacing the driver in it though, you will honestly be 100x better off replacing the entire thing. If you need help designing the box for it, let me know.

Also, the TC Sounds subwoofer that you keep talking about, likely WILL NOT sound right in your Velodyne box. So you can try to forget about that. A sheet of 3/4" MDF is $30. Add some screws, glue, paint / veneer / carpet, and you've got yourself a box made just FOR the subwoofer of your choice. Some will say 3/4" isn't enough. But with the proper bracing it'll be fine. If you'd rather go 1", it's not much more than 3/4" anyway. I mean seriously, what's an extra $50 on top of a $900 subwoofer already? You might as well build the right box for it to start with.

Seriously....if you're going to go with a new sub, do it right the first time . A box isn't expensive to make. And I can help you with the plans if you'd like. If for whatever reason I can't help you, I can point you in the right direction.
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Junkyard
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post #1929 of 3859
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
Corey:
If you're wanting an indestructible subwoofer, you're going about it the wrong way. Your current Velodyne is a good sub if it was in good shape. If you're looking at replacing the driver in it though, you will honestly be 100x better off replacing the entire thing. If you need help designing the box for it, let me know.

Also, the TC Sounds subwoofer that you keep talking about, likely WILL NOT sound right in your Velodyne box. So you can try to forget about that. A sheet of 3/4" MDF is $30. Add some screws, glue, paint / veneer / carpet, and you've got yourself a box made just FOR the subwoofer of your choice. Some will say 3/4" isn't enough. But with the proper bracing it'll be fine. If you'd rather go 1", it's not much more than 3/4" anyway. I mean seriously, what's an extra $50 on top of a $900 subwoofer already? You might as well build the right box for it to start with.

Seriously....if you're going to go with a new sub, do it right the first time . A box isn't expensive to make. And I can help you with the plans if you'd like. If for whatever reason I can't help you, I can point you in the right direction.
that's not a bad idea I'll let you know if I buy the driver. I can use my velodyne as a benchmark for the tc sounds driver. I know my sub box is in great shape aside from a few dings and scratches. The sub driver itself seems in good shape. It was just re surrounded, but I can't push more than 90db without clipping really bad, the servo function is completely shot which means I can hear some distortion now. This sub according to it's stereophile review can easily push out 120db without audible distortion, and mine clips out at 70-80db. Somethings wrong here.

This is why I'm going for the route of replacing stuff. I might end up going with the tc sounds driver and build it's own box like you say. How difficult is it to build a good sub box with some mdf? I have a 3/4 sheet somewhere in my garage. I'm not sure if it's moisture damaged yet.
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post #1930 of 3859
Quote:
Originally Posted by coreyL View Post
that's not a bad idea I'll let you know if I buy the driver. I can use my velodyne as a benchmark for the tc sounds driver. I know my sub box is in great shape aside from a few dings and scratches. The sub driver itself seems in good shape. It was just re surrounded, but I can't push more than 90db without clipping really bad, the servo function is completely shot which means I can hear some distortion now. This sub according to it's stereophile review can easily push out 120db without audible distortion, and mine clips out at 70-80db. Somethings wrong here.

This is why I'm going for the route of replacing stuff. I might end up going with the tc sounds driver and build it's own box like you say. How difficult is it to build a good sub box with some mdf? I have a 3/4 sheet somewhere in my garage. I'm not sure if it's moisture damaged yet.
It's not difficult at all to build a box, assuming you know your way around a woodshop . The designing is where things get tricky, just depends on the design you want to go with.
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Junkyard
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CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
NZXT 120mm fans strapped to stock 7970 cooler Windows 10 Pro Dell 3007WFP Dell 2007FP 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell 2007FP Cheap Toshiba (R.I.P. Ducky) PC Power & Cooling Silencer MKIII 950w Cheap Garbage (free) 
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OSMonitorKeyboardPower
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