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post #1951 of 3859
Quote:
Originally Posted by coreyL View Post
OMG i will tell him to put that under his seat. GENIUS!!!!1 lol. I'll tell him to use one channel in my sub box and the other channel the bass shaker actually mounted behind his back. no better way to hit his chest than that, LAWL.



Yes he can. You can't feel much at all from my velodyne. it DESTROYS my house but you barely feel it in your chest, just your feet and what you're sitting on. It will literally shake rooms across the 11,500 sq ft house I live in but you can't feel it in your chest. I don't care because I care what it acoustically sounds like to my ears which is pure sex.

So basically any 12 inch shallow mount garbage most excursion possible that moves air subwoofer is what I'm going to reccomend.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=500264

He also made me do that to his car which is a retarded idea. He has no High pass inputs at all on his amp. I told him it was retarded and could break his amp or sub. Who puts amplified speaker wires into the pre amp in through a crappy RCA cable and expects QUALITY?

but the Velodyne 400 watt RMS amp did the same clipping and distortion, it's CLASS B CLEAN 400 WATTS OF PURE POWER. mind explaining that? I'm not sure why it would distort with perfect clean power, even if it isn't a car sub amp.
1) Don't wire that Bass Shaker off an amplifier. You'll destroy it.
2) Home audio and car audio are completely different.
3) Clearly you don't know what to recommend for a subwoofer in car audio either.
4) There is nothing wrong with using high level to power an amplifier. You DO need a high to low level converter though, otherwise you WILL fry the amplifier connected to it eventually.
5) The above could be another reason for the distortion. I already told you the signal was bad.
6) Sure, your Velodyne is a Class B 400w RMS amp. At what resistance? Also, read...."Class B". Class B is reserved for speaker amplifiers in Car Audio. You want a Class D monoblock to push a subwoofer.

Again, give me the exact model number on the sub (EXACT), the dimensions of the box he's using, and his budget. He needs an amp, and probably a high to low level converter (assuming a stock stereo is being used).
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post #1952 of 3859
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
1) Don't wire that Bass Shaker off an amplifier. You'll destroy it.
2) Home audio and car audio are completely different.
3) Clearly you don't know what to recommend for a subwoofer in car audio either.
4) There is nothing wrong with using high level to power an amplifier. You DO need a high to low level converter though, otherwise you WILL fry the amplifier connected to it eventually.
5) The above could be another reason for the distortion. I already told you the signal was bad.
6) Sure, your Velodyne is a Class B 400w RMS amp. At what resistance? Also, read...."Class B". Class B is reserved for speaker amplifiers in Car Audio. You want a Class D monoblock to push a subwoofer.

Again, give me the exact model number on the sub (EXACT), the dimensions of the box he's using, and his budget. He needs an amp, and probably a high to low level converter (assuming a stock stereo is being used).
http://www.velodyne.com/vproducts/docs/63-ULD1518.pdf

300mv/20k ohms is the impedance of my velodyne.

I told him the bose voice coil leads to his pre amp input was retarded, but did not know about the low level converter. thank you on that. Iv'e never messed with car audio, so yeah, that's why I'm asking you. I'll let you know the EXACT model number and box dimensions when I can look at them on hand.

I already considered the already amplified signal to be why the sub was distorting, but my extreme quality clean velodyne amp made me think different.


this actually says it was designed specifically for cars, any idea how to hook it up right, behind or under his seat? It also says hook up to voice coil directly from amplifier.

Is selling his one driver, low level converter and the bass shaker a good idea, if the sub box is good enough?

He probably needs a new amp too.

edit:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-10...osure/14667135

this is his exact box.

oh yeah, the mtx sub was hooked up through his bose amplified rca signal to the same amp. it still raped the pioneer sub. I could really hear the distortion, but now I think that may have happened because the pioneer driver is extremely stiff and the surround is stiffer in an m shape as well, the mtx was very squishy and had retarded ammounts of excursion for a cheap sub with a softer cone; this may have acted as a mechanical roll off for the distortion, which the pioneer acoustically reproduces too well, then my velodyne amp was messing with the ohms and just raping the driver?
Edited by coreyL - 2/8/11 at 12:17am
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post #1953 of 3859
Corey:
Please note that 300mv/20k ohm impedance is your INPUT sensitivity. That is NOT the resistance of your subwoofer. Your sub is somewhere between 2-8ohm most likely. If the resistance isn't the same between your 18 and his 10, then you will NOT be pushing 400w to the 10.

I would avoid the bass shakers. They're pointless. He needs a better subwoofer and amp if he wants that hard hitting bass. The bass shaker only helps with super subsonic notes, and not much even at that. It's only 20w RMS (at 4ohm I believe). So its not going to reproduce what he's looking for.

I need to know the exact model on his subwoofer before I can tell you any recommendations. I need to know the power handling (RMS), the coil layout, and preferably the TS specs on it (not needed since the sub should come with the proper box designs in the manual).

From there, I can tell you what amp will suite him the best. And what setting to use on the high-low level converter.

You can find the converter from Sonicelectronix.com, or woofersetc.com. Amazon and fleabay probably have too, but I've always trusted sonic and woofersetc.

And why is he using shallow mounts anyway? Is space that much of a concern?

If he wants it to get loud, he needs a bigger box, ported with a good tune frequency, and a lot more power than that cheap Dual amp can produce. And he REALLY should look into a proper head unit instead of trying to ghetto fix an amp in there. He'll have 100x less issues with a proper head unit.
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post #1954 of 3859
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
Corey:
Please note that 300mv/20k ohm impedance is your INPUT sensitivity. That is NOT the resistance of your subwoofer. Your sub is somewhere between 2-8ohm most likely. If the resistance isn't the same between your 18 and his 10, then you will NOT be pushing 400w to the 10.

I would avoid the bass shakers. They're pointless. He needs a better subwoofer and amp if he wants that hard hitting bass. The bass shaker only helps with super subsonic notes, and not much even at that. It's only 20w RMS (at 4ohm I believe). So its not going to reproduce what he's looking for.

I need to know the exact model on his subwoofer before I can tell you any recommendations. I need to know the power handling (RMS), the coil layout, and preferably the TS specs on it (not needed since the sub should come with the proper box designs in the manual).

From there, I can tell you what amp will suite him the best. And what setting to use on the high-low level converter.

You can find the converter from Sonicelectronix.com, or woofersetc.com. Amazon and fleabay probably have too, but I've always trusted sonic and woofersetc.

And why is he using shallow mounts anyway? Is space that much of a concern?

If he wants it to get loud, he needs a bigger box, ported with a good tune frequency, and a lot more power than that cheap Dual amp can produce. And he REALLY should look into a proper head unit instead of trying to ghetto fix an amp in there. He'll have 100x less issues with a proper head unit.
I know about the head unit, but he paid $150 to get the code from an acura dealer instead of buying a way better head unit, don't ask me. It's an acura RSX which weighs 2700 pounds. It's small. space is of big concern. he listens to nothing but electronic music so subsonic hitting very hard is exactly what he wants. he wants to feel the bass hit his chest as much as he can.

are you sure the bass shaker won't help him feel songs like bass, i love you, and the hardest hitting songs like put on by young jeezy? I can not provide you with exact model of the sub yet, I'd need the physical driver, not a link to what he bought, right?

I'm almost positive the specs on his driver is 0.4-0.7 cu ft for the enclosure size. I could be wrong.

http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/297-290m.pdf

and wow, I was retarded and didn't think of it that way, it's a pre amped signal obviously at 300mv with 20k ohms. I thought maybe Velodyne wanted it's impedance proprietary at the time.
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post #1955 of 3859
Yes I'm positive that bass shaker will NOT do what he's wanting to do.

And considering that he's wanting to keep space so tight, he's never GOING to acheive the low notes in Bass, I Love You....or Put On by Jeezy. It just won't happen. He'll need at least a single big 12 with 1000w RMS or better, in a low tuned box to hit notes like he's wanting (from the sounds of it). Those bass shakers are a JOKE for car audio.
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post #1956 of 3859
I would like to Join my name is Steve Clay and im a music producer/owner for SCrecords. On my OCN computer(Studio 1) I am running through my AWIA amp I have 1 600Watt 12" Sub woofer, 6 surround Bose speakers, and then my BABYS I have 3 EV Full Range Constant directivity flood speakers (used in movie theaters) theses have to be the BEST SPEAKER I HAVE EVER HAD, and my naighbors hate me.. here a little story on how loud they are I was watching saving privet ryan and the guy across the street catty corner from me asked me to turn the stereo down and told me his walls where shaking he said that he woke thinking that a war was happening. (also he later called the poe-leese) anyway im pretty sure I fit the parameters

ill take some better pictures later this was just taken with my itouch.












there is a quarter for comparison


Edited by SteveClay - 2/8/11 at 9:03am
    
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post #1957 of 3859
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
Yes I'm positive that bass shaker will NOT do what he's wanting to do.

And considering that he's wanting to keep space so tight, he's never GOING to acheive the low notes in Bass, I Love You....or Put On by Jeezy. It just won't happen. He'll need at least a single big 12 with 1000w RMS or better, in a low tuned box to hit notes like he's wanting (from the sounds of it). Those bass shakers are a JOKE for car audio.
I mean, a tc sounds lms ultra 5400 tuned very low in his entire trunkspace with his back seats ripped out for a 6 cu ft box with the driver pointing towards his back ampped by a 3000 watt rms amp to produce under 10Hz at maybe 140-150 db with some distortion would hit his chest pretty hard, right?

Problem there is money and space. He. Doesnt want a box bigger than mine.
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post #1958 of 3859
Quote:
Originally Posted by coreyL View Post
I mean, a tc sounds lms ultra 5400 tuned very low in his entire trunkspace with his back seats ripped out for a 6 cu ft box with the driver pointing towards his back ampped by a 3000 watt rms amp to produce under 10Hz at maybe 140-150 db with some distortion would hit his chest pretty hard, right?

Problem there is money and space. He. Doesnt want a box bigger than mine.
Get him a single Fi Q 12, and about 2-2.5 cuft ported box at 30Hz.

That's about $250 for the subwoofer, and $150 for the amp to push it.

He will need a headunit though.
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post #1959 of 3859
1st of all don't dis an entire company because you do not have the proper equipment , unless you have a term lab handy which I'm 99% sure you don't because they cost 600 dollars and serve ONE purpose.

2nd of all you tested that INSIDE I'm guessing ... sound pressure is MUCH less significant inside of a house if you were to put your 18 in a car you'd feel it in your chest, a houses resonant frequency is MUCH higher than that of a car(hence car = loud house = quiet).

3rd drop the dual amp dual is was and always will be CRAP blew my first subs(dual said 350 watt rms) gave it 50 watts and BOTH tinsels came de soldered they're junk.

4th We need a budget, a single 10 or 12 is perfectly capable of recreating the bass he is looking for depending on the music he listens to, but without a proper budget I cannot reccomend ANYTHING, I had 2 10 inch memphis power reference subs in a 4 cubic foot box tuned to 33hz and it could kick your ass.

5th he needs a new box a CUSTOM box probably ported for what he wants if he just wants something loud tune it near 35-->45(rock music) if he wants REAL bass go anywhere from 25->>>35(rap techno w/e).

If he were going for SQ or something I could understand a sealed box but he just wants loud, you REALLY want to boil his balls get 2 of these (top mounted on the box)and put a REAL amp on it. pm me if you need clarification of the amps quality.

He will also want to upgrade his vehicles wiring if he got a dual amp he probably ran 8 guage wire(CRAP) get atLEAST 4 guage preferably 2 guage with a PROPER ground (ground down the paint and bolt it through the frame/chassis.)

That is all for now (my clan needs me xD)
under 10 hz at 140 dbs doesn't exist lol

if nothing else grab 2 kicker l8 8 inch subs slap them in the box and be done with it. 4 3/4 inch mounting depth and a lot more cone area than a single 10.
Edited by Darkapoc - 2/8/11 at 5:06pm
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Mr.Hoover
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post #1960 of 3859
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkapoc View Post
1st of all don't dis an entire company because you do not have the proper equipment , unless you have a term lab handy which I'm 99% sure you don't because they cost 600 dollars and serve ONE purpose.

2nd of all you tested that INSIDE I'm guessing ... sound pressure is MUCH less significant inside of a house if you were to put your 18 in a car you'd feel it in your chest, a houses resonant frequency is MUCH higher than that of a car(hence car = loud house = quiet).

3rd drop the dual amp dual is was and always will be CRAP blew my first subs(dual said 350 watt rms) gave it 50 watts and BOTH tinsels came de soldered they're junk.

4th We need a budget, a single 10 or 12 is perfectly capable of recreating the bass he is looking for depending on the music he listens to, but without a proper budget I cannot reccomend ANYTHING, I had 2 10 inch memphis power reference subs in a 4 cubic foot box tuned to 33hz and it could kick your ass.

5th he needs a new box a CUSTOM box probably ported for what he wants if he just wants something loud tune it near 35-->45(rock music) if he wants REAL bass go anywhere from 25->>>35(rap techno w/e).

If he were going for SQ or something I could understand a sealed box but he just wants loud, you REALLY want to boil his balls get 2 of these (top mounted on the box)and put a REAL amp on it. pm me if you need clarification of the amps quality.

He will also want to upgrade his vehicles wiring if he got a dual amp he probably ran 8 guage wire(CRAP) get atLEAST 4 guage preferably 2 guage with a PROPER ground (ground down the paint and bolt it through the frame/chassis.)

That is all for now (my clan needs me xD)
under 10 hz at 140 dbs doesn't exist lol

if nothing else grab 2 kicker l8 8 inch subs slap them in the box and be done with it. 4 3/4 inch mounting depth and a lot more cone area than a single 10.
This is just touching on PART of the problems with Corey's posts.

Corey:
You need to understand, car audio is NOT the same as home audio. What you THINK that you know about home audio, is completely useless and wrong in car audio. And it sounds like your buddy bought the lowest of the low line crap equipment he could find. That's what he gets for buying JUNK at Best Buy.

Give us a goal with the system, a budget, space limitations (for the box), and we can go from there. And quit blaming the Pioneer shallow mount sub. That's one of the BETTER shallow mount subs that are out there (assuming the 400w RMS model). The lower 200w RMS model isn't bad, but won't do what he's after.
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Junkyard
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