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OCN Speaker Club - Page 271

post #2701 of 3859
i can give up to the subwoofer and few bass, but i would at least a stronger speakers for around 100-120$ to fill the "gap" in the bass.
post #2702 of 3859
axipher:
By all means, any speaker system should be capable of at least mid bass. You want your speakers to extend at least into the 70Hz range, if not lower, so that your subwoofer doesn't have to run directional.

I don't use a high pass filter on my setup because I've got 2x Jensen tower speakers (actually not that bad honestly), running off my DTA-100a. I get extension down to about 32Hz or so. So I don't even need a sub. Obviously with smaller bookshelfs you are correct though. However you do still want them to put out down to around 70Hz.
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post #2703 of 3859
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post

axipher:
By all means, any speaker system should be capable of at least mid bass. You want your speakers to extend at least into the 70Hz range, if not lower, so that your subwoofer doesn't have to run directional.
I don't use a high pass filter on my setup because I've got 2x Jensen tower speakers (actually not that bad honestly), running off my DTA-100a. I get extension down to about 32Hz or so. So I don't even need a sub. Obviously with smaller bookshelfs you are correct though. However you do still want them to put out down to around 70Hz.

I believe its OK as long as it reaches ~100hz. At least that's what I remember reading several places. Above that you begin to be able to locate the sub.

There's also a point of diminishing returns because the distortion in [most of] the small ~5" speakers in bookshelfs increases very quickly once you start to get into the lower frequencies.
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post #2704 of 3859
Quote:
Originally Posted by drjoey1500 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post

axipher:
By all means, any speaker system should be capable of at least mid bass. You want your speakers to extend at least into the 70Hz range, if not lower, so that your subwoofer doesn't have to run directional.
I don't use a high pass filter on my setup because I've got 2x Jensen tower speakers (actually not that bad honestly), running off my DTA-100a. I get extension down to about 32Hz or so. So I don't even need a sub. Obviously with smaller bookshelfs you are correct though. However you do still want them to put out down to around 70Hz.

I believe its OK as long as it reaches ~100hz. At least that's what I remember reading several places. Above that you begin to be able to locate the sub.

There's also a point of diminishing returns because the distortion in [most of] the small ~5" speakers in bookshelfs increases very quickly once you start to get into the lower frequencies.

The magic number is actually 80Hz, not 100Hz....and it depends on the room and placement of the subwoofer. In my living room, my subwoofer is direcitonal until 60Hz or so (I can only guesstimate as I have 40Hz, 60Hz, 80Hz, and 100Hz low pass crossovers only). When I use the 80Hz low pass, I can tell exactly where the subwoofer is at. That could also be due to the roll off, I'm not 110% sure as I haven't tested it too terribly much. I set it and forgot it.

I do agree with you on the bookshelf comment though. Smaller drivers really aren't capable of low frequency output. However extending down to 60-70Hz or so SHOULD be more than feasable for any good bookshelf speaker, and retain quality sound. If it can't, you're either going to have a directional subwoofer, or you'll have a gap in mid bass.
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post #2705 of 3859
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post

The magic number is actually 80Hz, not 100Hz....and it depends on the room and placement of the subwoofer. In my living room, my subwoofer is direcitonal until 60Hz or so (I can only guesstimate as I have 40Hz, 60Hz, 80Hz, and 100Hz low pass crossovers only). When I use the 80Hz low pass, I can tell exactly where the subwoofer is at. That could also be due to the roll off, I'm not 110% sure as I haven't tested it too terribly much. I set it and forgot it.
I do agree with you on the bookshelf comment though. Smaller drivers really aren't capable of low frequency output. However extending down to 60-70Hz or so SHOULD be more than feasable for any good bookshelf speaker, and retain quality sound. If it can't, you're either going to have a directional subwoofer, or you'll have a gap in mid bass.

Keep in mind you can locate a speaker from the harmonics as well if they're loud enough frown.gif
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post #2706 of 3859
yes but what is the serious 2.0 system product around 120$ or similar with the strongest bass ?
post #2707 of 3859
I guess a mini amp with tripath chip + Dayton B652 pair would be a good choice.
Like Lepai ta2020a+ or smsl sa-36a etcetera

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post #2708 of 3859
What's up guys - with a new job i'll be getting some cash, and i'd like to grab a decent subwoofer for my system.

TCA Gizmo + ONIX Reference 0.5s -
Any suggestions (Cheaper the BetteR)
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post #2709 of 3859
Quote:
Originally Posted by noname View Post

What's up guys - with a new job i'll be getting some cash, and i'd like to grab a decent subwoofer for my system.
TCA Gizmo + ONIX Reference 0.5s -
Any suggestions (Cheaper the BetteR)

Hi stranger tongue.gif
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post #2710 of 3859
Quote:
Originally Posted by TUDJ View Post

Hi stranger tongue.gif

Hey cutie - long time no see biggrin.gif
Wanna help a noob out?
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