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post #2771 of 3865
would anyone like to recommend some passive speakers? bare in mind im in australia, and prices differ ALOT. budget of 300ish.

abit of base would be good in them, will be adding a power sub soon, i do have a small passive one atm though.
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post #2772 of 3865
i have 4 Polk Audio RTiA1 Bookshelfs and a CSiA4 Center Channel hooked up to an Onkyo receiver hooked up to my computer by an optical connection.

oh, and a Klipsch RW-12d Subwoofer as well as an Onkyo SKW-204 10in for midbass. when i find the time i will be building a crossover for these so that the 10 wont be trying to play the lows, and i can set the crossover frequency on the Klipsch to a lower frequency. it kind of sucks for midbass.
Edited by Skoobs - 7/24/12 at 10:41pm
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post #2773 of 3865
I'll order another TA2020A+ from ebay soon.
I'll order some Nichicon caps as well and I gotta do some research on what inductors I need and some parts for the pop surpression.
For the caps I'll probably get FW series 10000uF 16V to replace the biggest cap and for the other smaller caps I'll get some FG series (idk what sizes yet)
Gotta go buy a new soldering station as well..

Reason for getting another Lepai is that if I manage to break it while modding then I'll still have my original one biggrin.gif
If I don't break it and it actually works then I can do some proper comparisons and then after that I can mod the other one and either sell it for profit or something.

I'm also debating about a new sound card or dac/headphone amp.
I have to options in my mind.
Xonar Essence STX (~175€ here in Finland) or Audinst HUD-MX1 (~182€ including VAT from South Korea)
With the Audinst I'll have the option to use it as a headphone amp and when I want to listen to my speakers I can just flip a switch and the signal goes to RCA out and into my Lepai.
Of course the STX also has headphone amp but I'm planning on getting proper cans which aren't that easy to drive so the Audinst would be better. + it's portable ish so yeah.
Also Head-Fi'ers seem to like it.

Sent from my Galaxy Note
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post #2774 of 3865
I haven't modded an amplifier before, what are those going to do to it exactly?
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post #2775 of 3865
Well the biggest capacitor is related to power input, it's pretty much for preloading the amp for enough juice so it doesn't uhm run out. Like with car hifi, bumping bass really hard and you don't have enough juice what happens? Bass fades until cap has recharged itself.
" Recommended replacement, the biggest value you can find, at least 4700uF 16V, it's recommended to get a low ERS one. Some people also recommends putting another small capacitor (200nF for example) in parallel, to help filtering the irregularities from power source.

What will improve: general improvement, deeper bass response, and could help with switch-off caused at high volume with low current power sources."

The other smaller caps don't effect much but it's mainly a cosmetic or between the ears replacement, would you like to have Crapxon or other really low quality caps on your precious motherboard or power supply or on any electronic equipment for that matter?

The sound output inductors affect the sound a lot, at least from what I've read. Diyaudio wiki page says
" The output inductors on tripath based amplifiers play a big role on in the sound quality. Tripath docs and the majority of users here on diyaudio agree that by choosing the right inductors you will certainly improve the sound quality and this may put your tripath based amplifier on another league.

On the Tripath based amplifier produced by lepai it happens that almost any inductor rated 10uH 3.8A is better than the stock ones ."

The pop surpression is pretty self explanatory. You know when you turn on a receiver and it takes a few seconds for it to actually turn on and start playing music, when it's turned on you hear that distinct click sound?
That's pretty much a pop surpression and it also gives the amp few seconds to charge the caps properly. With the lepai you have a HORRIBLE pop when you turn it on, idk what causes it but a pop can damage speakers. Especially if I have left the volume knob a tad high on my Lepai I can actually freaking see the woofers of my Wharfedale's literally BOUNCE..
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post #2776 of 3865
Interesting. I'm not that worried about the input capacitors on mine. Mine's been running a 2ohm load in the car, tuned in (with my multimeter) at about 25w RMS per channel for months now. Since I've got a great battery setup, it doesn't have a lack of input voltage. And I have never heard a pop when it turns on. Must be because I have a slightly older model perhaps, I don't know.

Interesting things to learn though. smile.gif Thank you.
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post #2777 of 3865
Quote:
Originally Posted by drjoey1500 View Post

Or replace the amps. Active is better, you just need two amps.
active better...but yet.... no top name brand uses active speakers in home theater set ups...yea, active is so much better than passive rolleyes.gif

i guess my paradigm monitor 11s would be better if they were active *sigh
post #2778 of 3865
Quote:
Originally Posted by lagittaja View Post

Well the biggest capacitor is related to power input, it's pretty much for preloading the amp for enough juice so it doesn't uhm run out. Like with car hifi, bumping bass really hard and you don't have enough juice what happens? Bass fades until cap has recharged itself.
" Recommended replacement, the biggest value you can find, at least 4700uF 16V, it's recommended to get a low ERS one. Some people also recommends putting another small capacitor (200nF for example) in parallel, to help filtering the irregularities from power source.
What will improve: general improvement, deeper bass response, and could help with switch-off caused at high volume with low current power sources."
I'm not familiar with that particular amp, but a drastic change in the PS filter cap size can cause problems, such as blowing out the rectifier.

Bypassing the PS cap with a smaller cap(usually 10%) helps clean up any ripple.
post #2779 of 3865
Am I allowed into the club? ;]

My audio setup consists of:
Denon AVR-1312
Polk Audio Series II Monitor 40's
Polk Audio PSW110 subwoofer
(For late-night listening) V-Moda Crossfade LP's
And hopefully soon, an ASUS Xonar Essence STX.

I'll post a picture once the desktop is fixed. Waiting for some RMA parts on it.
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post #2780 of 3865
Quote:
Originally Posted by Face76 View Post

I'm not familiar with that particular amp, but a drastic change in the PS filter cap size can cause problems, such as blowing out the rectifier.
Bypassing the PS cap with a smaller cap(usually 10%) helps clean up any ripple.

I think it looks like this. tongue.gif


My bad, that is my Adcom GFA 555.
Edited by hertz9753 - 7/26/12 at 12:00am
    
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