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post #3171 of 3865
Quote:
Originally Posted by bumblebee1980 View Post

thanks for the monitor pads but don't put that acoustic foam on your wall. it only absorbs higher frequencies. owens corning is much better.

Thats why you need the thicker stuff too. And bass traps. There are specs for the pyramid, wedge, and corner/broadband foam, so you can make a good decision. The thing ppl forget is thin foam still absorbs low frequencies, just not completely. Look at the datasheets for more info.

Do you have a link for owens corning? All I found was insulation redface.gif
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post #3172 of 3865
there are tutorials all over the internet how to make panels.






you can substitute burlap with any fabric.

GIKAcoustics is a good place to start to setting up a room.

http://gikacoustics.com/educational-videos/

I highly recommend Gearslutz

http://www.gearslutz.com/board/studio-building-acoustics/
    
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post #3173 of 3865
oh and your looking for owens corning 703 or 705 fiberglass.
    
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post #3174 of 3865
Quote:
Originally Posted by bumblebee1980 View Post

oh and your looking for owens corning 703 or 705 fiberglass.

As much as I'd love my walls to be covered in 4" wedge foam, that's a much classier way to go. The 'studio' look would definitely get old after a while. thumb.gif

I'll definitely look into building some of those once I have my own place. Right now I barely use speakers at home.
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post #3175 of 3865
Quote:
Bill of Materials
2 Cases of Owens Corning 703 sound insulation - 6 panels in each case - online $120
1 1/2" Dry Wall Screws - Home Depot $3-4 per box
20 yards of Burlap Fabric - Joann Fabric $2.99/yd
20 - 1"x3"x8' lumber $0.94 each Home Depot
Staple Gun with 1/2" staples
2 Cans of 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive
Total Cost around $200 for 6 Panels!!!

you can also order kits

http://www.acoustimac.com/acoustic-insulation-materials/diy-kits-1/

lots of online retailers sell thousands of suede, vinyl and polyester fabrics by the yard. if you have a significant other, get her to pick them out smile.gif

edit: fabrics
Edited by bumblebee1980 - 3/17/13 at 12:11am
    
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post #3176 of 3865
I have some Klipsches on my desk, do they count to post?
post #3177 of 3865
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k-jacob View Post

I have some Klipsches on my desk, do they count to post?

What do you have? The op quit this thread. smile.gif
    
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post #3178 of 3865
Quote:
Originally Posted by aksthem1 View Post

The Micca MB42 and the Dayton B652 as far as I know both use a single capacitor for a crossover. I don't consider that to be a proper crossover. So that's the weakness of both those systems. Now the B652 just completely lack bass even for the size and that enclosure is just crap. The Micca seem to be more solidly built and that port does help the low end extension. It does sound a bit better too, but it's kind of a give and take situation.

I can't comment on the BIC though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by friend'scatdied View Post

I prefer no crossovers myself. wink.gif

I wonder if enclosure or crossover design is more important for budget-midrange speakers.

I would say at least a capacitor on the tweeter is an absolute must and if they are 3 way speakers a capacitor on the midrange as well. Throwing a capacitor on the lowest range speaker is important as well. Using capacitors will protect your speakers from low end frequencies they can't handle and for the most part can't produce. They will also make the speakers more efficient as they will not be sucking down power to attempt and drive frequencies they just can't hit well. Even on a nice full range 3 way speaker putting an extremely low frequency cut off will decrease power consumption and decrease the chance of the speakers bottoming out from bass they can't even properly produce.

X-Over, enclosure and material in the enclosure all matter and a very basic x-over built with capacitors is going to make a noticeable difference. You can look online somewhere to find the capacitor values that will cut specific frequencies. There used to be these things called bass blockers that where sold in the automotive car audio industry and they made a huge difference even on factory speakers. Even on the cheapest 2 way car speakers there is at least a small capacitor on the tweeter to make sure bass is not going to the tweeter.

Hope this helps... I notice your post is over a 1wk old but figured I would reply in hopes that you read it before you make final decisions.

I know that Vienna Acoustics does not put a low frequency cut on the lows just the mids and highs so it is all up to the designer/owner what is important. I do not do this anymore because I finally got a hold of amps that could handle my speakers (B&K Reference) but I did have capacitors on my mains to reduce extremely low frequencies and it didn't seem to have an effect on bass output except that it was now less likely to fade away on long bass hits.
Edited by givmedew - 3/26/13 at 2:59pm
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post #3179 of 3865
Quote:
Originally Posted by givmedew View Post


I would say at least a capacitor on the tweeter is an absolute must and if they are 3 way speakers a capacitor on the midrange as well. Throwing a capacitor on the lowest range speaker is important as well. Using capacitors will protect your speakers from low end frequencies they can't handle and for the most part can't produce. They will also make the speakers more efficient as they will not be sucking down power to attempt and drive frequencies they just can't hit well. Even on a nice full range 3 way speaker putting an extremely low frequency cut off will decrease power consumption and decrease the chance of the speakers bottoming out from bass they can't even properly produce.

X-Over, enclosure and material in the enclosure all matter and a very basic x-over built with capacitors is going to make a noticeable difference. You can look online somewhere to find the capacitor values that will cut specific frequencies. There used to be these things called bass blockers that where sold in the automotive car audio industry and they made a huge difference even on factory speakers. Even on the cheapest 2 way car speakers there is at least a small capacitor on the tweeter to make sure bass is not going to the tweeter.

Hope this helps... I notice your post is over a 1wk old but figured I would reply in hopes that you read it before you make final decisions.

Thanks for that, but I've had my final decisions for over a year now -- Anthony Gallo Reference Stradas. No crossovers. biggrin.gif
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post #3180 of 3865
Quote:
Originally Posted by givmedew View Post


I would say at least a capacitor on the tweeter is an absolute must and if they are 3 way speakers a capacitor on the midrange as well. Throwing a capacitor on the lowest range speaker is important as well. Using capacitors will protect your speakers from low end frequencies they can't handle and for the most part can't produce. They will also make the speakers more efficient as they will not be sucking down power to attempt and drive frequencies they just can't hit well. Even on a nice full range 3 way speaker putting an extremely low frequency cut off will decrease power consumption and decrease the chance of the speakers bottoming out from bass they can't even properly produce.

X-Over, enclosure and material in the enclosure all matter and a very basic x-over built with capacitors is going to make a noticeable difference. You can look online somewhere to find the capacitor values that will cut specific frequencies. There used to be these things called bass blockers that where sold in the automotive car audio industry and they made a huge difference even on factory speakers. Even on the cheapest 2 way car speakers there is at least a small capacitor on the tweeter to make sure bass is not going to the tweeter.

Hope this helps... I notice your post is over a 1wk old but figured I would reply in hopes that you read it before you make final decisions.

I know that Vienna Acoustics does not put a low frequency cut on the lows just the mids and highs so it is all up to the designer/owner what is important. I do not do this anymore because I finally got a hold of amps that could handle my speakers (B&K Reference) but I did have capacitors on my mains to reduce extremely low frequencies and it didn't seem to have an effect on bass output except that it was now less likely to fade away on long bass hits.

For what its worth, a lot of amps have subsonic filters on them. At least in car audio. Because those guys are crazy. wink.gif Actually one of mine has a subsonic filter built into the bass boost which is actually a cool idea. Meaning you boost say 25hz to extend your bass response and it cuts off below that so you don't damage your subs. I don't use it though because I'm not that crazy. yet.
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