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Compact H20 220 leaking bad(almost killed my PC) - Page 3

post #21 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ictinike View Post
Use plumbers tape? (teflon tape)

You would be surprised, I'm sure, at the numbers that don't invest in a $1 safeguard IMO... Many don't even know what it is and thread their barbs in blocks and rad's without having it in place. Talk about leaks
The barbs are molded to the block, so no teflon tape can be used there
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Boxxy Minaj
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post #22 of 33
I would give it more than an hour and a half to dry. I'd sit them under a heater.. or in a hot garage for 2 days.. no 1 hour stuff.. you sir are very lucky.

Good Luck.
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post #23 of 33
i got a question now, did, or sid you not, dis-and reassemble the pump/block before use?
post #24 of 33
wow! you are one lucky person
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post #25 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxextz View Post
dont mix water with electricity, thats why ive no interest in water cooling, my 2 cents.
man your lucky
Quote:
Originally Posted by shizdan View Post
Thats why I don't watercool
uh huh....what are you guys doing in the water cooling forums
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post #26 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by mz-n10 View Post
uh huh....what are you guys doing in the water cooling forums
QFT, GTHO you two.
post #27 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by reberto View Post
The barbs are molded to the block, so no teflon tape can be used there
Put me down on the list also. I added an Apogee Drive to a MCR220QP-RES, Rad-Box, barbs, clear tubing, & clamps that I had on hand. I couldn't bleed the loop, & it was like the more I bled it, the more air it produced. When I took a closer look I found the elbows were leaking. The water block case does have molded arms, but the barbs are not part of that, they are glued in. That's where mine was leaking from, the glue at the joint. I glued them more to stop the leak, but still have air entering the system.

The quality isn't the greatest. I did have to remove the 775 base to add the 940 base. During assembly with the 775 base, the o-ring had been deformed by driving the copper water block pins in to it. I was able to straighten the pins, but some were sheared off.

I have disassembled the unit looking for bad seal somewhere, but I can't find anything. I even flipped the o-ring just for the hell of it.

I'm leaning towards a new pump top & adding a water block. Space was & is still an issue, but I'm going to have to find it somewhere. I can't keep cooling with foam.
Edited by SpaceCowboy - 2/20/09 at 10:47am
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post #28 of 33
Quote:
I'm leaning towards a new pump top & adding a water block. Space was & is still an issue, but I'm going to have to find it somewhere. I can't keep cooling with foam.
If you get a new top I think you'll need a new o-ring for it, there cheap here..Bitspower DDC pump replacement O-Ring

These are two of the better tops. EK-DDC X-TOP ....XSPC - Laing DDC Top Or they were a while back they may have better ones out now.
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post #29 of 33
I just ordered the XSPC top, a new o-ring, & an OCZ HydroFlow water block. With any luck it will be here tomorrow.
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post #30 of 33
i was very temped to get that when i started w/cing too. glad i got my custom setup instead . glad the rig still works though.
Is it in yet?
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Is it in yet?
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