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Best 90 Degree Fittings - Page 2

post #11 of 35
Thread Starter 
Eh... upon further review of my situation, I believe I would only need two barb-barb elbows and no barb-thread elbows.

I however would need to make my own replacement for the hose-ready psu bay cover which ships with the HAF. I would also need to add about two-three feet of tubing.

The tubing is relatively inexpensive and saving 13 bucks each on a hand full of fittings would be great. I also thing 2-3 feet of tubing is far less restrictive than a hand full of 90 degree elbows, even the expensive bitspower ones.

If I'm wrong please tell me before I go and buy a bunch more tubing and some sheet metal XD

EDIT: also, I may be able to get away with using a pair of 45 degree elbows instead. Would two 45s be more or less restrictive than a single 90?
Edited by Zero4549 - 4/9/09 at 8:05pm
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post #12 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero4549 View Post
Eh... upon further review of my situation, I believe I would only need two barb-barb elbows and no barb-thread elbows.

I however would need to make my own replacement for the hose-ready psu bay cover which ships with the HAF. I would also need to add about two-three feet of tubing.

The tubing is relatively inexpensive and saving 13 bucks each on a hand full of fittings would be great. I also thing 2-3 feet of tubing is far less restrictive than a hand full of 90 degree elbows, even the expensive bitspower ones.

If I'm wrong please tell me before I go and buy a bunch more tubing and some sheet metal XD

EDIT: also, I may be able to get away with using a pair of 45 degree elbows instead. Would two 45s be more or less restrictive than a single 90?
Oh yeah a few feet of tubing is a lot less restrictive then a 90 is. Each 90 is about like 4-6" of tubing restriction.

2-45's or one 90, Man I don't know, two 45's probably. Hey a 90 or two isn't really going to kill your flow, but if you can get by with a little longer tubing your always better off.

Keep your fittings to a minimum and tubing length as short as practical. Thats just a general rule, if there is a real need it wont kill you to run a few extra fittings or a little longer tubing.

I just hate building a $5-600+ CPU loop and then add any restrictions that aren't absolutely needed.

You have to remember to that just because flow isn't reduced much that doesn't mean your not affecting flow quality,which is your head, just think of head as energy/velocity/turbulence, thats whats picking up your heat in the block and releasing it through your rad. Head is highest at the pumps out-let and returns to 0 at the inlet, any fittings, blocks and tubing in your loop are scrubbing off your energy/velocity/turbulence.
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post #13 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ira-k View Post
Oh yeah a few feet of tubing is a lot less restrictive then a 90 is. Each 90 is about like 4-6" of tubing restriction.

2-45's or one 90, Man I don't know, two 45's probably. Hey a 90 or two isn't really going to kill your flow, but if you can get by with a little longer tubing your always better off.

Keep your fittings to a minimum and tubing length as short as practical. Thats just a general rule, if there is a real need it wont kill you to run a few extra fittings or a little longer tubing.

I just hate building a $5-600+ CPU loop and then add any restrictions that aren't absolutely needed.

You have to remember to that just because flow isn't reduced much that doesn't mean your not affecting flow quality,which is your head, just think of head as energy/velocity/turbulence, thats whats picking up your heat in the block and releasing it through your rad. Head is highest at the pumps out-let and returns to 0 at the inlet, any fittings, blocks and tubing in your loop are scrubbing off your energy/velocity/turbulence.

Alright I think I'll go with that option then. And yeah assuming everything was perfectly made I'd assume two 45s would be better than one 90 but then each fitting slightly lowers the effectiveness of the system from what I gather regardless of what its doing, so I'm not sure which is the lesser of two evils.

Now... I when you brought up the part about "head" and each piece reducing it making it end in 0... That prompted a question in my mind. Does this mean that the item later in the loop will be significantly less effectively cooled than the items in the beginning regardless of water temps?

In more practical terms, would putting a radiator before a water block reduce the effectiveness of said water block as opposed to putting the radiator behind it? If so, would it outweigh the benefit of the radiator feeding freshly cooled fluid to the waterblock?
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post #14 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero4549 View Post
Alright I think I'll go with that option then. And yeah assuming everything was perfectly made I'd assume two 45s would be better than one 90 but then each fitting slightly lowers the effectiveness of the system from what I gather regardless of what its doing, so I'm not sure which is the lesser of two evils.

Now... I when you brought up the part about "head" and each piece reducing it making it end in 0... That prompted a question in my mind. Does this mean that the item later in the loop will be significantly less effectively cooled than the items in the beginning regardless of water temps?

In more practical terms, would putting a radiator before a water block reduce the effectiveness of said water block as opposed to putting the radiator behind it? If so, would it outweigh the benefit of the radiator feeding freshly cooled fluid to the waterblock?
I like the idea of having the coolest coolant flowing directly into the waterblock (IE: rad right before the block) so that is how I have set up all my loops... I'm not sure if that config is actually worth much temp-wise, I'm thinking a degree or two at the maximum, but it makes sense in theory and that's good enough for me.

I'm sure Ira or Martin could probably tell you much more definitively.
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post #15 of 35
some of the decent elbows actually are no different than making a bend in tubing.....
I think its all more dependent on budget and space constraints
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post #16 of 35
Quote:
Now... I when you brought up the part about "head" and each piece reducing it making it end in 0... That prompted a question in my mind. Does this mean that the item later in the loop will be significantly less effectively cooled than the items in the beginning regardless of water temps?

In more practical terms, would putting a radiator before a water block reduce the effectiveness of said water block as opposed to putting the radiator behind it? If so, would it outweigh the benefit of the radiator feeding freshly cooled fluid to the waterblock?
Thats the reason some guys like putting there CPU block right after the rad.

I've tried it both ways multiple times and always seemed to get a little better temp's with my block right after the rad, and I still use jet barb type blocks, they love high head.

I used to always run dual over-volted 18W DDC and Iwaki pumps that dump quite a bit of heat, with those I would drop a C or two across my rad. It hasn't been till here lately that I've used a single D-5 or 18W DDC in a loop with my temp probes, the temp drop was more like a half a C to a C across my rad. But even that can be significant with your other tweaks, a C here a half C there and pretty soon your looking at the duifference between a OC WC'ing rig or just a so-so type rig, its all about the tweaks.

Thats something you might like to play around with, every loop is a little different and will respond in a little different way. Thats the fun of WC'ing to me, all the different configs you can try. At one time I probably tore my loop down and set it back up at least 3 to 5 times a week just playing with it.

For a new guy block mounts are a really good thing to practise, I remount at least 4 or 5 times over a couple of weeks with a new block, then work it back down to my lowest temp. The more you mount the better you'll get. Some mobo's like a really hard mount, some don't, just play around with it.
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post #17 of 35
Thread Starter 
Very well.... Now I just need to pick a pair of 90 degree barb-barb fittings. Bitspower has two different versions:

Black Sparkle "L" Fitting

Crystal L-Block

Is the black sparkle actually any better than the crystal or is it just the looks/building materials/age that makes it cost more?

I personally like the look on the crystals and wouldn't mind saving the cash if there is no difference in performance.
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post #18 of 35
Its funny ira...I feel like I am reading the same things over and over again...everything you say makes so much since. One of these days I am gonna read over all your help posts and make a complete WC handbook. Your info and effort are far more efficient then any other that I have been able to find. Thanks again for EVERYTHING!!! You really are a cut above.
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post #19 of 35
Hondacity over in XS perfomed a test on 90s and 45s. XS is down still but going by memory I thought the take home lesson was that the 90s didn't do too much harm and the 45s did hardly anything to hurt flow. Does anyone have a better memory than me?
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post #20 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIRTYDUCK View Post
Its funny ira...I feel like I am reading the same things over and over again...everything you say makes so much since. One of these days I am gonna read over all your help posts and make a complete WC handbook. Your info and effort are far more efficient then any other that I have been able to find. Thanks again for EVERYTHING!!! You really are a cut above.
HaHa....
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