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Mechanical Keyboard Guide - Page 7

post #61 of 14076
So I don't get it, what makes the mechanical ones better besides the fact that they are loud and... clunky?
    
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post #62 of 14076
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamikaze127 View Post
So I don't get it, what makes the mechanical ones better besides the fact that they are loud and... clunky?
Well they aren't all clunky, just the Model M

The main reason is that they provide tactile feedback that rubber domes don't - you actually feel when the switch hits, instead of not knowing until noticing that a letter didn't appear on the screen.

They feel a lot more crisp as well. Like, you know how scissor switches (laptop style) boards aren't as mushy as regular keyboards? Mechanical switches take it one step further.

You also don't have to press the keys all the way down while you're typing, and they don't require as much force to press either. This results in less fatigue, and once you get fully accustomed to it, faster typing as well.

Linear switches also give you a good advantage with games because they don't have a tactile bump. Because of this, plus the fact that they actuate before you reach the bottom, you get slightly faster reaction times. Kind of like the difference between a laser mouse and a ball mouse. They suck to actually type on though, heh.

Then there's the weight of the keyboard. Most of them are pretty heavy, which means that they won't slide around on your desk while you're typing.

And the durability. As long as you don't spill anything on it, smash it with a hammer, or try to kill someone with it, a mechanical keyboard can last over 20 years easily.

Not all of them are loud and clunky either. The new ones are no bigger than a regular keyboard (see the ABS M1 or Steelseries 7G on newegg), and you can always stick to Cherry MX Brown or Black switches if you care about the noise. And there are plenty of keyboards that are tenkeyless (no number pad), which take up even less space.
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post #63 of 14076
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manyak View Post
Well they aren't all clunky, just the Model M
...
And the durability. As long as you don't spill anything on it, smash it with a hammer, or try to kill someone with it, a mechanical keyboard can last over 20 years easily.

...
Actually those older keyboards were damn near indestructible.

2 litres of cola, a chilletto (now called Chili Cheese Burritos), = dead keyboard BUT let it dry out for about a week. Hose it down with soapy water, then hose it clean. Rinse with 50/50 ratio of 90% pure rubbing alcohol (you can use 70% too if needed) and water. (Which btw is also a great home brew LCD cleaner with a soft cloth [I use felt from the fabric store)

RISE FROM THE DEAD KEYBOARD!!
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post #64 of 14076
Quote:
Originally Posted by idgarad View Post
Actually those older keyboards were damn near indestructible.

2 litres of cola, a chilletto (now called Chili Cheese Burritos), = dead keyboard BUT let it dry out for about a week. Hose it down with soapy water, then hose it clean. Rinse with 50/50 ratio of 90% pure rubbing alcohol (you can use 70% too if needed) and water. (Which btw is also a great home brew LCD cleaner with a soft cloth [I use felt from the fabric store)

RISE FROM THE DEAD KEYBOARD!!
Yeah, this Model M is a tank. Not only does it weigh about 5 pounds, its a very solid 5 pounds.
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post #65 of 14076
I never liked how I had to apply more force to each key when it came to mechanical keyboards. So when I went from those to this plastic domes, I like the less pressure needed to type. I don't really follow the norm of preferring a mechanical keyboard. Instead I want a laptop keyboard feel, but with a longer depression.

I've typed on a few buckling spring keyboards, the now common plastic dome ones, and a few actual chiclet keyboards (not to be confused with the chiclet-style keyboard) - really don't like it.
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post #66 of 14076
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acreo Aeneas View Post
I never liked how I had to apply more force to each key when it came to mechanical keyboards. So when I went from those to this plastic domes, I like the less pressure needed to type. I don't really follow the norm of preferring a mechanical keyboard. Instead I want a laptop keyboard feel, but with a longer depression.

I've typed on a few buckling spring keyboards, the now common plastic dome ones, and a few actual chiclet keyboards (not to be confused with the chiclet-style keyboard) - really don't like it.
Not all mechanical keyboards actually require more force. The Scorpius M10, for example, has a very light keystroke that caught me off guard at first, being used to the heavier-action Model M. Each kind of mechanical switch is different in feel, and the amount of force required to actuate.
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post #67 of 14076
Thread Starter 
^^ What he said.

I suggest you get an MX11800 from ebay to try out. They shouldn't run more than $30, even brand new. It uses cherry MX brown switches, which require very little force to type on. My laptop keyboard actually requires more force than it does.

And if you want really, really light typing, try a Topre Realforce 87U. The letter keys all need only 35cn of force to actuate. Compare that to the 80cn required for buckling springs . Its pretty expensive though, and will run around $350....so its really not worth it just to 'try out'.


Edit: Here you go, an MX 11800 for $25+shipping.
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post #68 of 14076
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manyak View Post
^^ What he said.

I suggest you get an MX11800 from ebay to try out. They shouldn't run more than $30, even brand new. It uses cherry MX brown switches, which require very little force to type on. My laptop keyboard actually requires more force than it does.

And if you want really, really light typing, try a Topre Realforce 87U. The letter keys all need only 35cn of force to actuate. Compare that to the 80cn required for buckling springs . Its pretty expensive though, and will run around $350....so its really not worth it just to 'try out'.


Edit: Here you go, an MX 11800 for $25+shipping.
If I had known about those, I probably wouldn't have spend twice as much on the M10 The brown switches don't click, correct?
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post #69 of 14076
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by timw4mail View Post
If I had known about those, I probably wouldn't have spend twice as much on the M10 The brown switches don't click, correct?
Correct, tactile only, and the bump isn't as pronounced as it is on the blues.
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post #70 of 14076
now i got to be the boo man i guess, the g15 i got (old version) i prefer over any other keyboard because of the simple fact that i can see all my temps on the little lcd, i can also see all the folks in teamspeak or ventrillo channel, i dont care if a keyboard looks plain or not, this is the function i bought this keyboard for, the simple fact that its a long lasting and very funtional keyboard, it cost me about 70 bucks last year, so i dont think its a waste if you need those functions. so the 70bucks saved me minimizing the game.

the point of those keyboards (mechanical) is more the daily typing not gaming in my opinion, but everyone has their preferrence.

Greetz
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