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[Official] Mechanical Keyboard Guide - Page 1275

post #12741 of 14567
Quote:
Originally Posted by HGooper View Post
I'm gonna to ask few questions here instead of opening new thread about gaming mechanical keyboard, hope you guys can help.

First of all I'm new to mechanical keyboard, I'm currently using Razer Tarantula RD keyboard. Tbh qc for this keyboard is bad, and people keep talking about how good the mechanical keyboard is for gaming, so I've decided to give it a try on mechanical keyboard.

After doing some researches, what I found is that filco majestouch 2 is a very high quality m/k, and according to this guide, Cherry MX Black Switches is the best for gaming, so I should get filco majestouch 2 with Cherry MX Black Switches.

Am I right on this? Or any other suggestion? I'm playing mainly FPS so please give me some input on best gaming m/k. Thanks.
Right-o. You pretty much have done the research. While there is technically no "best" switch, most agree that blacks are great for gaming. I prefer clear switches however because you get some tactile feedback, while blacks are completely linear.

I think it might be worth considering the Ducky keyboards from OCN, lots of options for switch types/keycap types.
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post #12742 of 14567
Quote:
Originally Posted by aesthetics1 View Post
Right-o. You pretty much have done the research. While there is technically no "best" switch, most agree that blacks are great for gaming. I prefer clear switches however because you get some tactile feedback, while blacks are completely linear.

I think it might be worth considering the Ducky keyboards from OCN, lots of options for switch types/keycap types.
Thanks for your reply. One thing I'm concerned about the keyboard the letters faded away on the keycaps, which's already happened on my Razer Tarantula, I can't see any letter on WASD keycaps anymore, along with nearby keycaps. From what I read Flico keycaps will also suffer with this problem(correct me if I'm wrong), that's why they make the ninja version?
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post #12743 of 14567
Alternative options for solid MX-Black based boards are the Thermaltake Meka G-Unit & Meka G1.

The normal Meka has a slightly funny shape, but can be found for $80 sometimes (Which is a great price for it.)

As Redmist said; you did your research and you've got it down pretty well. Switch type to me, isn't really as important. I do find blues the hardest to game on because of myself being used to mechanical switches themselves (When it comes to gaming at least.)

On the other hand; MX-Blacks are definitely not a bad switch to type on, as they are fairly smooth and are some of the easiest to get used to in terms of how a mechanical switch works.
With an MX-Black, you steadily feel that force increase as you press the switch. So by the time you get to the half way mark, you can see the character pop up on the screen you just know to release at that time.
It takes some practice and getting used to, but in the end it makes them very quiet to type on, which is also nice.

Personally, I like heavy switches so I can't do the same with reds. If I had a more delicate touch; I could pull it off though.


Only certain keycap types will fad away. Lazer Etched keycaps with infill will eventually have the infill fade away.
Like wise, keycaps where the letters are painted on will fade away.

Pad Printed keycaps like what Filco uses will not fade quickly, but the keycap itself will get shiny. E.G. Look glossy over time.
The letter will still be there though, since it's actually a sticker on and not paint or something else.
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post #12744 of 14567
I got a mechanical keyboard to get away from the mushiness/no-tactility of a rubber dome keyboard, so I went with browns. I get a slight bump as the switch activates, and to me it feels really good. I decided that blacks were the opposite of what I wanted, being completely linear and a stiff switch.

I don't think there's any best switch for anything, it all comes down to personal preference. I do 90% gaming 10% typing and I'm considering trying to find a keyboard with MX Blues.
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post #12745 of 14567
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tator Tot View Post
Alternative options for solid MX-Black based boards are the Thermaltake Meka G-Unit & Meka G1.

The normal Meka has a slightly funny shape, but can be found for $80 sometimes (Which is a great price for it.)

As Redmist said; you did your research and you've got it down pretty well. Switch type to me, isn't really as important. I do find blues the hardest to game on because of myself being used to mechanical switches themselves (When it comes to gaming at least.)

On the other hand; MX-Blacks are definitely not a bad switch to type on, as they are fairly smooth and are some of the easiest to get used to in terms of how a mechanical switch works.
With an MX-Black, you steadily feel that force increase as you press the switch. So by the time you get to the half way mark, you can see the character pop up on the screen you just know to release at that time.
It takes some practice and getting used to, but in the end it makes them very quiet to type on, which is also nice.

Personally, I like heavy switches so I can't do the same with reds. If I had a more delicate touch; I could pull it off though.


Only certain keycap types will fad away. Lazer Etched keycaps with infill will eventually have the infill fade away.
Like wise, keycaps where the letters are painted on will fade away.

Pad Printed keycaps like what Filco uses will not fade quickly, but the keycap itself will get shiny. E.G. Look glossy over time.
The letter will still be there though, since it's actually a sticker on and not paint or something else.
From what I can understand, MX-Black is more "responsive" coz it already registers the command when you press half way thru the keycap, unlike RD you've to press all the way down to the bottom to get it registered, is that right?

No idea how the keycap will get shiny over time, and what's the purpose that they releases the ninja version then?
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post #12746 of 14567
Quote:
Originally Posted by HGooper View Post
From what I can understand, MX-Black is more "responsive" coz it already registers the command when you press half way thru the keycap, unlike RD you've to press all the way down to the bottom to get it registered, is that right?

No idea how the keycap will get shiny over time, and what's the purpose that they releases the ninja version then?
The reason for the ninja version is looks. If the keycap is shiny everywhere but the letter it looks kinda funny. With the letter on the front of the keycap, it doesn't nearly look as out of place.

Also, you are correct.

All Cherry MX Switches act that way though, 2mm throwout he travel, the switch activates. Sending the signal to your computer.
Topre switches are the same, and for the most part, so are Alps switches.
SO it's not just limited to MX-Blacks; but is more of a general thing for all mechanical switches.
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post #12747 of 14567
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tator Tot View Post
The reason for the ninja version is looks. If the keycap is shiny everywhere but the letter it looks kinda funny. With the letter on the front of the keycap, it doesn't nearly look as out of place.

Also, you are correct.

All Cherry MX Switches act that way though, 2mm throwout he travel, the switch activates. Sending the signal to your computer.
Topre switches are the same, and for the most part, so are Alps switches.
SO it's not just limited to MX-Blacks; but is more of a general thing for all mechanical switches.
I don't know my Razer Tarantula is using pad painted or what, but it wears very quick and letters are totally gone, not to mention those seldom use keycaps already start to show wearing effect. I don't understand what you've mentioned that the letter will be there even though it starts to wear. The only downside of Filco Majestouch 2 is that it uses ABS Plastic, it might wears pretty fast.

One more thing about the maintenance, do I need to do any maintenance after long period of use and it starts colloecting dusts? The reason that I ask is coz I'm upset with my Razer Tarantula coz it needs maintenance regularly. When it starts collecting dusts around the keycaps, the feeling of pressing keycaps is not smooth, kinda stuck something in between, so I have to take out keycaps and clean them along with RD.

And the worst part is that sometimes certain keys will not functioning well, something you press it'll detect the keycap letter, and sometimes it won't. The reason for this is coz the dusts, I have to open the keyboard the clean the board inside the keyboard, it's annoying coz it happens quite often. Does m/k suffer this problem too?
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post #12748 of 14567
Trantula uses painted on printing.

Most mechanical keyboards do not need much maintenance. After a year of use, depending on how much you use the keyboard, you may need to put lithium grease on the stabilizer of a key. But that takes 10 seconds and is less work than putting oil on a bicycle chain.

Also, that dust thing will not be an issue. As the keycaps on most mechanicals are farther spaced apart at the base of the key (But still use standard key spacing) so they do not touch one another when they are travelling.

Mechanicals will, generally, not suffer from an issue of dust and what not. If you have a bad switch, dust or hair can get into it and cause it to not work. This is rare though; and I've restored 20+ year old mechanical keyboards that have never had this problem.

Also, the ABS Keycaps that Filco uses are pretty standard in the mechanical scene. Rosewill, Ducky, Das, Filco, Mionix, Thermaltake, & WASD all use the same ABS keycaps.
The only difference is that Filco puts a special coating on their keys that looks worse over time as you see the normal key wear, the wearing of the coating, and the letter.

The other brands do not apply this coating and generally look better after long periods of use.
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post #12749 of 14567
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tator Tot View Post
Trantula uses painted on printing.

Most mechanical keyboards do not need much maintenance. After a year of use, depending on how much you use the keyboard, you may need to put lithium grease on the stabilizer of a key. But that takes 10 seconds and is less work than putting oil on a bicycle chain.

Also, that dust thing will not be an issue. As the keycaps on most mechanicals are farther spaced apart at the base of the key (But still use standard key spacing) so they do not touch one another when they are travelling.

Mechanicals will, generally, not suffer from an issue of dust and what not. If you have a bad switch, dust or hair can get into it and cause it to not work. This is rare though; and I've restored 20+ year old mechanical keyboards that have never had this problem.

Also, the ABS Keycaps that Filco uses are pretty standard in the mechanical scene. Rosewill, Ducky, Das, Filco, Mionix, Thermaltake, & WASD all use the same ABS keycaps.
The only difference is that Filco puts a special coating on their keys that looks worse over time as you see the normal key wear, the wearing of the coating, and the letter.

The other brands do not apply this coating and generally look better after long periods of use.
Thank you Tator, pretty much all my questions have been answered. The only thing left is which brand to choose, I'll probably get Filco, and say goodbye to the ****ty Razor keyboard, no more Razor products for me anymore.
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post #12750 of 14567
Quote:
Originally Posted by HGooper View Post
Thank you Tator, pretty much all my questions have been answered. The only thing left is which brand to choose, I'll probably get Filco, and say goodbye to the ****ty Razor keyboard, no more Razor products for me anymore.
I'd go for your best priced option.

Mionix Zibal 60, WASD Custom/Semi Custom Keyboard v1, Thermaltake Meka G1, Rosewill RK-9000, Filco Majestouch, Das Model S, & Ducky DK9008/DK9008-G2/DK9000 keyboards are all on the same quality level.
Test Bed
(24 items)
 
TTTbox
(15 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i5 3570K  Biostar TZ774XE Power Color AX5770 1GB 4x4GB 1866Mhz 9-10-9-27-2T 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB Western Digital Green 2TB Samsung Spinpoint M4 500GB 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Intel X-25M G2 80GB Lite-On BluRay Drive Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 Pro Windows 7 Ultimate 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell U2212HM Deck Legend Frost Tactile Silverstone Strider Plus 750w Custom Acrylic Test Bed 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Logitech G500 Cooler Master Storm Tactics FPS Beyer Dynamics DT-990 600ohm Samson MediaOne 3A 
AudioAudioOtherOther
FiiO E09k QOGIR FiiO E17 ALPEN Microsoft Lifecam Studio Blue Yeti Pro Microphone 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD A10-A5800K ASRock FM2A85X-ITX Radeon HD7770 1GB 2x8GB 1866mhz C9 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
SanDisk Ultra Plus 128GB 2TB 5400 RPM  24x DVD Drive Noctua L9A 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 7 Home Premium 32" IPS TV Logitech K400 Seasonic G360 
CaseMouseAudio
Cooler Master Elite 120 Advanced Logitech K400 Trackpad Custom 2.1 Home Theater Setup 
  hide details  
Reply
Test Bed
(24 items)
 
TTTbox
(15 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i5 3570K  Biostar TZ774XE Power Color AX5770 1GB 4x4GB 1866Mhz 9-10-9-27-2T 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB Western Digital Green 2TB Samsung Spinpoint M4 500GB 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Intel X-25M G2 80GB Lite-On BluRay Drive Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 Pro Windows 7 Ultimate 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell U2212HM Deck Legend Frost Tactile Silverstone Strider Plus 750w Custom Acrylic Test Bed 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Logitech G500 Cooler Master Storm Tactics FPS Beyer Dynamics DT-990 600ohm Samson MediaOne 3A 
AudioAudioOtherOther
FiiO E09k QOGIR FiiO E17 ALPEN Microsoft Lifecam Studio Blue Yeti Pro Microphone 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD A10-A5800K ASRock FM2A85X-ITX Radeon HD7770 1GB 2x8GB 1866mhz C9 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
SanDisk Ultra Plus 128GB 2TB 5400 RPM  24x DVD Drive Noctua L9A 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 7 Home Premium 32" IPS TV Logitech K400 Seasonic G360 
CaseMouseAudio
Cooler Master Elite 120 Advanced Logitech K400 Trackpad Custom 2.1 Home Theater Setup 
  hide details  
Reply
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